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Old 01-11-2006, 07:58 PM   #31
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mainly 94757's.

I have never had an undeserved failure.

In a nitro TC, I cracked an ear off the casing from a severe impact from another car. Still functioned fine, but I replaced the case for a few dollars. In an electric TC, I had a tremendous impact to a cinder block wall - so much so it left a mark on the wall. No joke. I was not running any sort of servo saver and the impact damaged one of the gears. I replaced that one gear, and have continued use since.

I'm a competive racer. Unfortunately, sometimes I drive beyond my skill level. In the chase to get faster, I visit the boards early and often. At the Midwest Series finals in Cincinnati, I had a fellow idiot racer turn on his radio (he was in the pits) while I was on the track. Radio hit while at the top of 2nd gear put me in hard. Sheared most of the extremities off my nitro car, but servos survived drama like this for seasons of competition and bashing.

I typically race two to three weekends a month. I drive my cars pretty hard. By that, I do not mean I abuse them, but I don't baby them. From touring cars, to monster trucks, I've had my Airtronics servos in my kits for years. Worth every cent.

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Old 01-11-2006, 09:18 PM   #32
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I know a couple sponsored guys that run for different radio co. and both manufacturers gave the guys analog servos because it holds up better in nitro racing especially for the throttle and brakes.
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:34 PM   #33
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Default I would agree...

...that people are reporting digital failures.

Does this mean digital servos are less reliable? Maybe, maybe not...

I would be willing to bet, it you walk the pits at a typical race, approximately every other car will not have their end points set wrong. Depending on dual rate setting and brake ETA setting, this can create a situation that can cause the servo to fail, it's just a matter of when.

Imagine not setting the end point for brake in a nitro car. Every time you hit the brake, you put a static load of 100-200oz of torque. Hit the brakes a few times a lap...every lap...for a afternoon of running...

Also, the fact that there are two servos doubles the possibilites to set them up wrong.

(so people know, that is not 'the' Matt Francis in the above post)

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Old 01-12-2006, 01:47 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrAnGe PoWeR
Hi AndyT , I can't seem to find the specs on that new Spektrum HRS rx.. any info/link? Thanks in advance..
Hi Orange Power
Theres some info on the HRS Spektrum 3PK set on-
www.3hobby.net
Cheers
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Old 01-12-2006, 05:35 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by dnitro
...

My buddy and I went thru 4 Hitec 625 throttle servos in a period of three months. The potentiometer went bad on all 4 of them.
I had similar results with the Hitec MG925 and MG945. 4 dead servos including two that melted. On the other hand I've had both the 5625 and 5645 and never had a bit a trouble. The 925 and 945 were analogue. The 5625 and 5645 were digital.

I wouldn't trust any Hitec analogue but the digitals have been fine.

I currently use the Futaba 9451 and have no problems outside of the usual problem (frayed wire, cracked case). In two years I have not lost a single gear.

As for whether to go analogue or digital. Go digital.

First, the torque is usually higher and the response is often quicker. Plus, if you use the Futaba HRS receiver it CANNOT be used with analogue servos. Digital only. Using an analogue servo with that receiver will blow the servo. To my knowledge, Futaba is the only company whose product does this but there could be others. Anyone know?

The downside with digital, they are always 'on'. In other words, they use battery power whether they are moving or not. Analogue is more like a switch where the servo draws power only when there is an input. But to be honest, the power issue is moot these days. Who the hell is using a 600mAh receiver pack? Even the AAA's are up to 950mAh now and wlll hit 1000mAh next month with Sanyo's latest cells. Use the 2/3 sub C-cell and you can get 1400mAh. Go Li-Po and you get about 1050. With the latest batteries, power isn't much of problem any more.

The only other 'digital' issue is price but that is not a technology problem. Futaba and Sanwa (especially!) charge mega cash for a fairly standard technology that hasn't changed much in the last few years. And, because people keep paying a $100 a servo, they keep on charging a $100.

Ahhh, the joys of racing.....
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Old 01-12-2006, 06:59 AM   #36
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i used to use jr8450's in all my cars.before last year i had one go bad in three years. when i started racing 235mm i had 2 8450's go bad in less than 2 months. my endpoints were set correctly.i bought 2 ko 2143's (analog coreless high torque) and i haven't had a problem since. i am moving to 1/8 onroad this year and most of the old timer's at the track say that digitals don't last on 1/8 cars like the analogs do.from my own experience it seems to be true.
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Old 01-12-2006, 11:24 AM   #37
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You can buy Futaba 9451's all day long from Tower Hobbies for $80 each. Not only that, but if you buy two at a time you will get a discount of $2.50/servo plus you will qualify for an online discount usually good for another $15 discount. They end up just under $70/each plus shipping.

While typing this, I got an email from Tower Hobbies giving a $25 discount coupon on orders over $149.

If you add all that stuff up right now the servos are $65/each plus shipping if you purchase two of them.
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Old 01-12-2006, 12:15 PM   #38
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Thanks for the tip. I'm ording 2 S9550's right now. Good price.
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Old 01-12-2006, 12:18 PM   #39
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you are welcome. Now that I think about it, I may order a few myself.
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Old 01-12-2006, 12:40 PM   #40
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2 servos shipped for 133.47
Thats 66.75 each. I was just looking at picking up a couple used for $45 each with the ears cut off. I would have had to replace the cases. New is always better.
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Old 01-12-2006, 12:55 PM   #41
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Like TC_Tuner said....the end point setting is a SETUP that will make your servo last

If you are running 1/10th TC (nitro or electric), Futaba 9550 (for space and weigh saving) or 9451 are the answer...$80 will last you good 2-3 years (if used them properly). For throttle...almost any servo will work...I use the Futaba 3015 (a little better then S3003 but just about $40 out the door)...good all around throttle servo, and it is analog.

If that is for 1/8th....forget about being cheap, it has to be Futaba 9451 Steering and throttle.........I know Futaba cause I only use them. Hitec is cheaper at the beginning........I have seen many bad hitec on the track, you can do the math afterall.
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Old 01-12-2006, 01:02 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
You can buy Futaba 9451's all day long from Tower Hobbies for $80 each. Not only that, but if you buy two at a time you will get a discount of $2.50/servo plus you will qualify for an online discount usually good for another $15 discount. They end up just under $70/each plus shipping.

While typing this, I got an email from Tower Hobbies giving a $25 discount coupon on orders over $149.

If you add all that stuff up right now the servos are $65/each plus shipping if you purchase two of them.
Ppl need to know how to get DEAL...especially from TOWER, I hope ppl are no longer saying TOWER is a rip off from now on........I am checking my dealer account, I cannot order one 9550 for that price myself as a dealer...there are a lot of good deal from TOWER as a consumer, not just for dealer.
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Old 01-12-2006, 04:58 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rookie Solara
Ppl need to know how to get DEAL...especially from TOWER, I hope ppl are no longer saying TOWER is a rip off from now on........I am checking my dealer account, I cannot order one 9550 for that price myself as a dealer...there are a lot of good deal from TOWER as a consumer, not just for dealer.
Might be worth another look. I ordered from Tower a few years back and the prices really sucked, especially compared to a lot of shops in Hong Kong. Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-12-2006, 05:48 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TC_Tuner
Sorry, but this isn't the way it works. Dead battery = dead battery, not just power loss to one servo. Not starting anything here, but this is a dangerous suggestion that is just not based on reality.

When looking at the specs on an analog servo, the number are MAX values. For example, 100oz torque would be at full deflection, but typically makes less that half of this near center. Digital servos make the same torque value in any position or location.

Something that is SUPER important especially with digital servos - correctly set the end point values WITH the dual rate settings at their max value. I have seen many people that set the end points with the dual rates at 100%, but they can go to 125% or 150%. This puts a tremendous strain on the servo when it's mechanically bound. This will always cause premature failure and reduce battery run time significantly.

Me? I run Airtronics digital servos in my electric and nitro touring cars. Killer performance, easy access to repair parts, and compatible with most every system.

my $.02
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NO NEED TO START SOMETHGING BUT I RUN A DIGITAL FOR STEERING AND STANDARD FOR THROTTLE WHEN MY PACK GOES DEAD MY STEERING GETS VERY SLOW BUT I STILL HAVE FULL CONTROL OF MY THROTTLE SO I SPEAK FROM MY OWN EXPERIENCE AND IVE BEEN DOING THIS FOR A LONG TIME.SO THIS IS BASED ON REALITY!!!
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Old 01-12-2006, 06:05 PM   #45
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Tower does have good prices , if you know how to work them and search. For futaba servos, yes they are good. You get the included discount codes they have on the front webpage and time things right you can get very good prices.

Some things though they are a bit more exspensive. But if you look in hong kong for me there are many things I can get cheap.

black 3pk at tower , 369 + 7 shipping.
black 3pk from hong kong 229 + 40 shipping

Still by far better.

But then you go into servos , tower 67 9541 if you get two etc etc. Hong kong 80 + 20 shipping....not good deal.

Just price shop , like any smart shopper would. This isnt something new either. I always price shop and compare. Sometimes I look for people selling personal gear and you can find brand new items sometimes for half off. Just gotta be smart.
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