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HB RGT8

Old 05-23-2019, 09:34 AM
  #61  
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I run M2C light weight clutch with soft shoes and 1.1 springs.
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Old 10-28-2019, 03:58 PM
  #62  
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Default Converting buggy to gt

Does anyone know if you can convert a d817 buggy into a rgt8?
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Old 11-01-2019, 07:15 AM
  #63  
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Yes, just need the parts!
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Old 11-18-2019, 10:16 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by invrtd View Post
Yes, just need the parts!
Maybe do you have parts list? What I must change?

Bumber, shock towers, central diff ?
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Old 11-25-2019, 02:49 PM
  #65  
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I do not have all the parts written down. You for sure will need a new chassis, center 2 speed to replace center diff, font and rear center drive shafts I think, shocks, shock towers, body mount for rear, front bumper. It's not a super fast or cheap way to convert from a buggy. I thought about doing the same thing but after figuring the cost of all the parts it was easier to just buy a new kit. If you are in the states or have whats app you can message me. I will PM you my phone number.
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:17 PM
  #66  
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always wanted a GT class 1/8 scale car, so I just picked up a RGT8 with an Orion 5 port v4 crf nitro engine, does anybody have any recommendations for a glow plug (summer and winter) and fuel, i think its needs a turbo plug and 30%
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Old 01-23-2020, 06:23 PM
  #67  
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Old 03-14-2020, 08:41 AM
  #68  
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has anyone had trouble turning over the Orion engines, really tight at the top of the stroke, my starter box will not turn it over
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Old 04-01-2020, 06:17 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by quickta View Post
has anyone had trouble turning over the Orion engines, really tight at the top of the stroke, my starter box will not turn it over
Sorry, haven't been on threads in a while.
The most 'kantankerous' motor I ever had was the new (at that time) Axial .21 (7port). I had the same problem of starter couldn't spin it over. Had to use 'heat gun' to loosen it up and under NO CIRCUMSTANCES turn your back on it without placing a small block of soft foam between flywheel and chassis pan with plan to keep piston towards bottom of cylinder....if you even 'blinked' the piston would rise up towards 'top dead center' and the cylinder would 'seize' when it even cooled slightly......highly disheartening.
The cure involved 1) heat gun 2) learning to NOT ignore piston position 3) sometimes loosening glow plug to ease starter motor rotation 4) return to item #2, DO NOT LET PISTON SNEAK BACK TO TOP DEAD CENTER AND LOCK-UP WHEN IT COOLS.
When GT8 engine rules came into being, I had stop using my favorite motor, the SIRIO S24T along with the Axial .21 (7port) that actually passed into 'extinction' with the different marketing at Axial.
The 'tight motors' just need you to understand their 'Idiocyncrocies'. They eventually loosen up. You may have a case of 'the tight jaw' until that happens though.
Good Luck.....Happy Racing !!
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Old 04-03-2020, 05:09 AM
  #70  
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yes, just use a heat gun. Then it will be easy. It is always advised with quality motors anyways.

Like said above don't leave the piston to top dead center when you finish up and the engine cools. It will jam there. However, if you do then use a heat gun again to release it.

Nice car!!
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Old 05-05-2020, 10:45 AM
  #71  
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Looking for a nitro roller....LMK
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Old 05-06-2020, 12:58 PM
  #72  
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bump!!
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