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Old 12-06-2005, 02:47 PM   #1
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Hi,

You can recommend me a good tire truer (to 1/10) to an accessible price?

thank you
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:07 PM   #2
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i had a hudy tire truer and love the cut quality from the blade. but i prefer an automatic tire truer and dont want to pay too much money. so i bought a integy auto truer and its been working great so far. the cut is not as good as the hudy but no biggy since the tires smooth out after a run. i prefer the integy auto
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Old 12-06-2005, 03:21 PM   #3
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This is what I did & is working great for me. Get an auto integy tire truer & Hudy carbide cutting bit, you need to grind the bit down so it fit the integy tool holder. The carbide bit cost $40.00 retail, but I have seen it as low as $25.00, the overal cast is under $200.00 VS 400.00 + for hudy. But do not make a mistake the hudy auto truer is the best one on the market.

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Old 12-06-2005, 05:18 PM   #4
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I use a Racing Arts Innovations truer....its a manual one, does the job well, and is certainly a good truer if youre on a budget.
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:34 PM   #5
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Also look at RD Logics... great price... excellent quality...can find it on Ebay... or LHS if they carry that kind of stuff.
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:37 PM   #6
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Noob question: How automatic is "Automatic"?
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Old 12-06-2005, 08:41 PM   #7
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I have the 3Racing truer. It works good except for front 1/12th scale tires. I paid less than 200 for it from rc mushroom. It has worked out great for me so far, except the tire rounder, it isnt worth setting up.
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Old 12-06-2005, 09:23 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMG4EVOII
Hi,

You can recommend me a good tire truer (to 1/10) to an accessible price?

thank you
I have the 3Racing Truer and I would say the price and quality are a good match. The blades suck a bit so I use the Hudy carbide blade instead and it cuts well. You have to keep in mind though, if you use the Hudy blade, the diameter measurements are off by about 10-11mm. Take this into account or you will have extremely small tires. Other pluses are it cuts both 1/10th and 1/8th tires (if you buy the 1/8th adaptor). It comes with a durable aluminium case, which is a nice plus. The motors are also decent.

Some minues though. First, the power wire attaches to the rear of the truer with spring loaded clips which fail over time. The springs are easy to loose too. I soldered the power wire directly to the unit to solve the problem. The tire rounding feature is a neat idea but I found it didn't work well for me. I just use a metal file instead. Finally, as the cutter travels back and forth along a guide I noticed there is some play. In other words, the cutter is actually pushed a little by the tire itself. This sometimes creates a little dip in the tire with edges a little bigger than the centre of the tire. This has not been a problem though as the tires even out quickly.

Hudy is indeed still the best truer out there but it expensive. My advice would be if you are a very serious racer and need to cut a lot of tires or are thinking of getting one for a team or club, go Hudy. If you are an intermediate racer who spends about a 20-25 weekends a year at the track or less, and most tires you cut are for mainly your use, the Integy or 3Racing may be just what you need.

One last thing. You need a good power supply. For the 3Racing truer I can get away with a 20amp supply on 1/10th tires when cutting 2-3mm. But when cutting 4mm or more millimeters or cutting 1/8th tires a 25 or 30 amp power supply is highly recommended. The power will determine how well the unit cuts. If underpowered, it will not cut well.

Good luck.
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:46 PM   #9
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Automatic means that you adjust the depth of the cut, push a button and the blade moves across and back on its own. This way, you dont have to sit there turning a little hand crank looking like a loser.
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Automatic means that you adjust the depth of the cut, push a button and the blade moves across and back on its own. This way, you dont have to sit there turning a little hand crank looking like a loser.
Does this mean it will provide more accurate cutting as well?
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Old 12-07-2005, 10:22 AM   #11
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It provides more accurate cutting for a couple of other reasons.

a) the carbide (not really carbide) bit
b) the tight cutting head tolerances
c) the top line model has a knob for variable feed speed

The feed speed is the key one and makes the custs smoother. If you race, you want this. Why cut your tires down with a rough cut only to have them change by .25-1mm after you run a couple of laps?
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Old 12-07-2005, 10:25 AM   #12
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Thanks for the info.
But how do you determine how fast the feed speed should be?
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Old 12-08-2005, 06:47 AM   #13
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Hi,
thanks to everybody, for your advices, the most probably, i will catch the integy, but one question, you use power supply or battery? how many amps should have the power supply? You can put me a photo of modified Hudy carbide cutting bit ??

thanks
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Old 12-08-2005, 10:24 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogreasurada
Thanks for the info.
But how do you determine how fast the feed speed should be?
Excellent question. If you want to cut your tires fast, leave it on fast speed. I usually use the fast speed with my Hudy because the finish is pretty good. The time to slow it down is when you want a perfect finish, or if it is front nitro foam and the shore is high, or if you are making deep cuts to rear foams. If you don't slow it down when cutting the higher density front foam, the motor will bog and possibly burn out components in the truer. Either slow it down or make smaller cut passes. For example, if you make a 2mm cut of 45 shore front foam, the head better be moving really slow. If you make a 2mm cut of rear foam you can likely leave the speed on high without problems.
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Old 12-08-2005, 12:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fraz
Excellent question. If you want to cut your tires fast, leave it on fast speed. I usually use the fast speed with my Hudy because the finish is pretty good. The time to slow it down is when you want a perfect finish, or if it is front nitro foam and the shore is high, or if you are making deep cuts to rear foams. If you don't slow it down when cutting the higher density front foam, the motor will bog and possibly burn out components in the truer. Either slow it down or make smaller cut passes. For example, if you make a 2mm cut of 45 shore front foam, the head better be moving really slow. If you make a 2mm cut of rear foam you can likely leave the speed on high without problems.
Cool, thanks so much for filling up my brain.
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