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MTX6 will not move

MTX6 will not move

Old 03-09-2016, 06:55 PM
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Default MTX6 will not move

I'm new here and to on road nitro (but not to nitro RC all together). I wanted to get a project to work on so I bought a Mugen MTX6. I have started the engine but the wheels will not move. There is no binding in the drivetrain and I am near certain I do not have the clutch set up right. I followed the instructions in the manual but I can give it near full throttle and nothing. I have no experience with this "centax" style clutch. Just trying to get everything moving. Pleasure to meet everyone as I am sure I will have more questions
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by trev616 View Post
I'm new here and to on road nitro (but not to nitro RC all together). I wanted to get a project to work on so I bought a Mugen MTX6. I have started the engine but the wheels will not move. There is no binding in the drivetrain and I am near certain I do not have the clutch set up right. I followed the instructions in the manual but I can give it near full throttle and nothing. I have no experience with this "centax" style clutch. Just trying to get everything moving. Pleasure to meet everyone as I am sure I will have more questions
HI Mate,
Where are you?
Is there a club or good hobby shop near by.
check out this thread
http://www.rctech.net/forum/nitro-ro...ouring-29.html

you will find all sorts of questions about MTX6's.

If only the engine is spinning and nothing is moving including the pinions in the engine then your right the clutch is the area to focus on.
it could be the spring is set to tight and or the clutch bell is to far away from the shoe.

just check your 3 black counter weights are on the right way. there are two holes in them but only one hole is the right one to fit to the pin.

the clutch nut that sets the spring tension should be set flush with the top of the engine nut as a start point,
What colour is the spring?


i,m sure if I could see it we could work out what's wrong.

is it new?

Last edited by shanwright; 03-09-2016 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 03-09-2016, 07:31 PM
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Hi,

Happened to me once before, in a race meet. I adjusted my gap of my cluth the wrong way and it did not engage. Check the gap, might be too wide. Make sure you're measuring and adjusting the right way.
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Old 03-09-2016, 08:45 PM
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Too much gap,bell needs o be closer to the shoe.Spring could also be to tight to .RC Target.com has a great clutch tutoriol.
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Old 03-09-2016, 09:28 PM
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I'm on my own out here with this stuff. I have to figure things out on my own. Since I can't seem to upload photos here directly click on my name and go to my album. I posted pics of what I am trying to do. Thank you guys for the responses.
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Old 03-10-2016, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by trev616 View Post
I'm on my own out here with this stuff. I have to figure things out on my own. Since I can't seem to upload photos here directly click on my name and go to my album. I posted pics of what I am trying to do. Thank you guys for the responses.
It all looks good to me..
Let me get this straight even with lot rpm the clutch bell never locked up on the engine.

It's not a big one but try winding the clutch spring in all the way and then backing it off to flush. If it's a new spring this can help to settle it.

Also did You ceck if the pressure plate and shoe can freely float, make sure the three pins are not bent.

When you wher measuring the clutch gap, the one you used the feeler gauge to messure, was the bell touching down on the shoe?
When messuring this gap I remove one of the two inner bearings, to make sure the bell does touch the shoe.



Last edited by shanwright; 03-10-2016 at 01:42 AM.
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Old 03-10-2016, 06:28 AM
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I will try checking it with the bearings out but I feel my set up is basically what the manual states. There are a few things I am having a hard time understanding about how this clutch is supposed to work:

The flyweights are very lightweight themselves, the clutch spring in this thing is very tough to the point I can hardly make it move with my fingers. I do not understand how on such a tiny motor (Novarossi Virtus .12) the RPM from the engine will be able to compensate for such a tough spring with such light flyweights.

The next thing I do not understand is when I try to simulate the clutch shoe pressure against the clutch bell housing with the two off the engine it is very slick. There is very little friction between the two. I do not understand how this kind of shoe to clutch bell setup being so slick would ever be able to support the weight of the car to get it moving.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by trev616 View Post
I will try checking it with the bearings out but I feel my set up is basically what the manual states. There are a few things I am having a hard time understanding about how this clutch is supposed to work:

The flyweights are very lightweight themselves, the clutch spring in this thing is very tough to the point I can hardly make it move with my fingers. I do not understand how on such a tiny motor (Novarossi Virtus .12) the RPM from the engine will be able to compensate for such a tough spring with such light flyweights.

The next thing I do not understand is when I try to simulate the clutch shoe pressure against the clutch bell housing with the two off the engine it is very slick. There is very little friction between the two. I do not understand how this kind of shoe to clutch bell setup being so slick would ever be able to support the weight of the car to get it moving.
Thats how a centax clutch works. Are you sure theres nothing wrong on your drive train? Does the transmission spin when you give it gas? Perhaps you forgot to tighten the 2spd pulley to the shaft, it happens. Is there a lot of smoke from the pipe? Perhaps your motor is tuned so rich that it doesnt have any power.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:39 AM
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If I move the car on the ground there is no binding. All the belts move like they should. There is no power getting to the drive train due to the clutch.
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Old 03-10-2016, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by martind1318 View Post
Too much gap,bell needs o be closer to the shoe.Spring could also be to tight to .RC Target.com has a great clutch tutoriol.
I agree tha.017 is too much of a gap it should be .06-08 I would think .
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Old 03-10-2016, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by trev616 View Post
I will try checking it with the bearings out but I feel my set up is basically what the manual states. There are a few things I am having a hard time understanding about how this clutch is supposed to work:

The flyweights are very lightweight themselves, the clutch spring in this thing is very tough to the point I can hardly make it move with my fingers. I do not understand how on such a tiny motor (Novarossi Virtus .12) the RPM from the engine will be able to compensate for such a tough spring with such light flyweights.

The next thing I do not understand is when I try to simulate the clutch shoe pressure against the clutch bell housing with the two off the engine it is very slick. There is very little friction between the two. I do not understand how this kind of shoe to clutch bell setup being so slick would ever be able to support the weight of the car to get it moving.
Watch the video on Rc target. It's a very similar clutch and it helps you see how it all goes together etc.
You could drop the gap down to 0.3mm or so that what I run.
If your engine tune is very ritch it won't be reving hard enought to engage.
P.S. That do work..LOL that little Virtus will make about 1.5 HP at 40k revs that will through the weights out.
The holes in the weights can have very short grub screws fitted to increase the weight, but that's not need here.
The main thing is the bell must be in contact with the shoe when measuring the gap. So take the inside bearings out when measuring .
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Old 03-11-2016, 12:53 PM
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You could have a bad oneway i had one in my serpent 747 it wouldn't move no matter what I did.
It was that way out of the box replaced it and the car was good.
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Old 03-11-2016, 01:43 PM
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Sent you a pm with my number if you need help.Check your messages
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Old 03-12-2016, 10:41 AM
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Looking at the pictures you have a new engine.
A new engine needs to broken in, which is done at a very rich setting.
The stock clutch is quite hard in terms of spring tension and this can give some trouble with breaking in an engine.

For breaking in with the Mugen clutch I reduce the gap to 0,2-0,25 and set the spring preload nut 0,2mm past the clutch nut. So even less preload.

I would advice first running the engine very rich at WOT for 4-5 tanks on the starterbox and then lean it a bit and put it on the track.
If you put the car on the track straight away you will need to lean the engine too much for a proper break in in order to get it moving.
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Old 03-16-2016, 02:13 AM
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Hi mate
How did you get on?
Any progress?
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