Team Magic G4
10-07-2009, 05:23 PM
10-08-2009, 03:11 AM
10-10-2009, 02:36 AM
I had forgot how tiresome running in engines is, just that first time getting it running is a chore, maybe with more experience it's easier...
The little HN is a tight little thing, but it's now idled it's way through 4 tanks, and I leaned it out just enough for it to rev up and engage the clutch after that, with a few rich slow back and forth runs under the house.
Ran out of light by then, so will do more tomorrow, but so far it's got the feel of something much faster than my old car, which is saying something considering it's still set to only open half throttle, and still very rich, but the way the centax works, with the extra HP over my old car, it overall feels a lot more car than the CD3.
The little HN is a tight little thing, but it's now idled it's way through 4 tanks, and I leaned it out just enough for it to rev up and engage the clutch after that, with a few rich slow back and forth runs under the house.
Ran out of light by then, so will do more tomorrow, but so far it's got the feel of something much faster than my old car, which is saying something considering it's still set to only open half throttle, and still very rich, but the way the centax works, with the extra HP over my old car, it overall feels a lot more car than the CD3.
10-10-2009, 03:44 PM
heh..
I had forgot how tiresome running in engines is, just that first time getting it running is a chore, maybe with more experience it's easier...
The little HN is a tight little thing, but it's now idled it's way through 4 tanks, and I leaned it out just enough for it to rev up and engage the clutch after that, with a few rich slow back and forth runs under the house.
Ran out of light by then, so will do more tomorrow, but so far it's got the feel of something much faster than my old car, which is saying something considering it's still set to only open half throttle, and still very rich, but the way the centax works, with the extra HP over my old car, it overall feels a lot more car than the CD3.
The little HN is a tight little thing, but it's now idled it's way through 4 tanks, and I leaned it out just enough for it to rev up and engage the clutch after that, with a few rich slow back and forth runs under the house.
Ran out of light by then, so will do more tomorrow, but so far it's got the feel of something much faster than my old car, which is saying something considering it's still set to only open half throttle, and still very rich, but the way the centax works, with the extra HP over my old car, it overall feels a lot more car than the CD3.
10-10-2009, 08:41 PM
Far enough away that it's barely an issue, one of the perks of living on acreage up the mountain, if anything the G4 is quiet compared to my usual activities, which often involved me working on the big car, with air compressor running and using the rattle gun...
Rather late last night we did finally get a break from the wind up here, that allowed me to paint my body shell, just got to say that I forgot how toxic Tamiya paint fumes are, oh and 100ml cans my ass, more like 80ml liquid propellant, 20ml paint content.
Next shell will get some Faskolor with an air brush, the Tamiya prop cans are just such poor value.
Rather late last night we did finally get a break from the wind up here, that allowed me to paint my body shell, just got to say that I forgot how toxic Tamiya paint fumes are, oh and 100ml cans my ass, more like 80ml liquid propellant, 20ml paint content.
Next shell will get some Faskolor with an air brush, the Tamiya prop cans are just such poor value.
10-12-2009, 05:29 PM
Tech Apprentice
G4S RTR running good, now tires, manual
Well I found the glitch it's in the antenna lead for the AM receiver. Once I put my Futaba 2.4 in everthing is fine. Still using my hump pack sittiing on tope of the chassis for break in. I think the 6V 600 mah that came with it is gone. It will not take a charge. I will contact the place I bought it from to see if they will do anything.
One last question, What spare parts should I have that are the most often broken?
Not including gears, belts.
Thanks again
Jim
One last question, What spare parts should I have that are the most often broken?
Not including gears, belts.
Thanks again
Jim
I got the new battery pack for the receiver and the chassis and engine are running great, pretty dialed in. A couple of more questions.
What tires for parking lot club running. Need name of tires and where to get them.
How about a manual, which kit is the closest so I can download the manual. The rtr barely tells you anything.
Thanks
Jim
10-12-2009, 08:44 PM
Tech Adept
Hello again guys and thanks for all the help.
I got the new battery pack for the receiver and the chassis and engine are running great, pretty dialed in. A couple of more questions.
What tires for parking lot club running. Need name of tires and where to get them.
How about a manual, which kit is the closest so I can download the manual. The rtr barely tells you anything.
Thanks
Jim
I got the new battery pack for the receiver and the chassis and engine are running great, pretty dialed in. A couple of more questions.
What tires for parking lot club running. Need name of tires and where to get them.
How about a manual, which kit is the closest so I can download the manual. The rtr barely tells you anything.
Thanks
Jim
For untreated parking lot racing I'd start with 35 shore front and 37 shore rear, these will be perfect for 5 minute heats with ambient temps of between 15deg C and 30deg C. For higher temps go up to 37 Front 40 rear.
For the manual I'd suggest the 'G4S' one, same era (2006) and same car apart from the clutch, CF top deck, sway bars and screws.
Only thing I'd change is replace the plastic wheel hexes for the K Factory ones as fitted to the G4S, the plastic ones cause excessive wheel runout.
Good luck with the racing!
10-13-2009, 02:20 AM
Glad I caught that suggestion today, have just placed an order for some parts myself, so with some luck I'll add the alloy hexes to my order, and hopefully get them with the rest of my short list of hop up parts...
10-13-2009, 04:14 AM
...
Be sure not to overtighten and strip those little 1.5mm hex screws if thats the type you get, a gentle tighten is all you need. Also consider the offsets, if they are too wide they can put you over 200mm and the ball joints into the flying wings can onle go so far.. be aware of it.
Bishop, we're taking a break after the nats on the racing front, switching back to G4S+, cars are stripped to plates, bearing seals removed and bearings soaking and getting cleaned. Need a few extra parts as we broke our rear arms, rear top pivot and short on side belts. One radio left too..
Luke's E4 is ready to roll but need to find a Novak bearing, cant seem to get the seals off (must be pressed seals) so hunting down some bearings that can handle 60K rpm for his 3.5 turn.
If you are going out this Friday night, wouldnt mind coming out to watch...
h
PS: Measure the axle diameter too...
10-13-2009, 06:32 AM
Well I squeaked in the alloy hex hubs last min, it added very little to the order, so it was worth it, I do love shopping on the WWW...
Apart from some body shell trimming, and more running in (some of which will just 'need' track sized length to do), my car is drivable now, so I'm keen to run it soon.
But next Friday meet is not until the 23rd now though?, so I may do this Saturday if I feel up to it, although I believe they run the long track then, and with bugger all track time under my belt, not sure I'm ready for that yet.
Apart from some body shell trimming, and more running in (some of which will just 'need' track sized length to do), my car is drivable now, so I'm keen to run it soon.
But next Friday meet is not until the 23rd now though?, so I may do this Saturday if I feel up to it, although I believe they run the long track then, and with bugger all track time under my belt, not sure I'm ready for that yet.
10-13-2009, 07:07 PM
Tech Apprentice
Thanks for all the help, more questions.
Its definitely a good suggestion.. Early days, I had the plastics melt into wheels and had a nasty time grinding the wheel and hex off with a dremel.
Be sure not to overtighten and strip those little 1.5mm hex screws if thats the type you get, a gentle tighten is all you need. Also consider the offsets, if they are too wide they can put you over 200mm and the ball joints into the flying wings can onle go so far.. be aware of it.
Bishop, we're taking a break after the nats on the racing front, switching back to G4S+, cars are stripped to plates, bearing seals removed and bearings soaking and getting cleaned. Need a few extra parts as we broke our rear arms, rear top pivot and short on side belts. One radio left too..
Luke's E4 is ready to roll but need to find a Novak bearing, cant seem to get the seals off (must be pressed seals) so hunting down some bearings that can handle 60K rpm for his 3.5 turn.
If you are going out this Friday night, wouldnt mind coming out to watch...
h
PS: Measure the axle diameter too...
Be sure not to overtighten and strip those little 1.5mm hex screws if thats the type you get, a gentle tighten is all you need. Also consider the offsets, if they are too wide they can put you over 200mm and the ball joints into the flying wings can onle go so far.. be aware of it.
Bishop, we're taking a break after the nats on the racing front, switching back to G4S+, cars are stripped to plates, bearing seals removed and bearings soaking and getting cleaned. Need a few extra parts as we broke our rear arms, rear top pivot and short on side belts. One radio left too..
Luke's E4 is ready to roll but need to find a Novak bearing, cant seem to get the seals off (must be pressed seals) so hunting down some bearings that can handle 60K rpm for his 3.5 turn.
If you are going out this Friday night, wouldnt mind coming out to watch...
h
PS: Measure the axle diameter too...
Sorry I'm new. Also got some great suggestions above for the shore rating, and I know what that means. How about brand of tires and where to get them.
Also the stock motor winds up pretty good, but is weak on the bottom end. I am consdidering goint to a bigger spur 53 verus 51, any thoughts?
Thanks
Jim
10-13-2009, 08:19 PM
Flying wing suspension arms, it's what Team Magic called the new solid arms, as for offset, it's just the width the hex hubs will give you, you can buy them in zero or plus or minus offsets, if your racing you need to be careful cause you need to fit through a 200mm test rig.
If the stock exhaust you got on your kit is nothing special, you could try a better pipe, a good two chamber can give you more bottom end, or yeah gearing can get you there, either by a larger split if you don't want to loose top end, or just gear down in general if you can bare to loose so top end.
If the stock exhaust you got on your kit is nothing special, you could try a better pipe, a good two chamber can give you more bottom end, or yeah gearing can get you there, either by a larger split if you don't want to loose top end, or just gear down in general if you can bare to loose so top end.
10-15-2009, 04:21 AM
Tech Adept
Ball joints into the flying wings, offsets? What are the flying wings?
Sorry I'm new. Also got some great suggestions above for the shore rating, and I know what that means. How about brand of tires and where to get them.
Also the stock motor winds up pretty good, but is weak on the bottom end. I am consdidering goint to a bigger spur 53 verus 51, any thoughts?
Thanks
Jim
Sorry I'm new. Also got some great suggestions above for the shore rating, and I know what that means. How about brand of tires and where to get them.
Also the stock motor winds up pretty good, but is weak on the bottom end. I am consdidering goint to a bigger spur 53 verus 51, any thoughts?
Thanks
Jim
10-15-2009, 06:12 PM
Tech Apprentice
G4S torque
That SH motor is a Torque mister, I'd suggest dropping a tooth on the 1st gear pinion only, leave the two spurs and 2nd speed pinion as is and see how it goes. Sadly the 3 shoe RTR clutch is not as tunable as UFO (Centax type) for the standing start but if careful the shoes can be trimmed of weight giving a later engagement, best leave this option as a last resort though.
Thanks, that's what I was trying to do with the bigger spur. Any reason to use the smaller pinion instead?
I believe it has a 51/20 stock for a 2.55 ratio. I was going to go all the way to a 52/19 for 2.74 ratio or maybe even more 52/18 for a 2.89 ratio. I know the spread to second is big but the engine seems to wind well and the track has only one good straight away. What are your thoughts?
What type of two speed is in this car. Is it a pawl or a clutch type?
How about replacement tires, what brand and where to get them, both rubber and foam.
Thanks
Jim
10-16-2009, 01:36 AM
Well, I'm not that happy with the depth of colour, and I had a issue with sanding drums flying apart on the rotary tool during trimming/sanding, but it looks ok for general use...
I loved the slammed look when I first started trimming it, had to get a pic of that.
The camera flash also makes it look darker than it is, and I'm not sure I'd buy another Protoform shell, .7mm lexan just makes it seem more fragile than it needs to be for club level racing, considering I'm still a hack, it will be trashed in no time, Blitz Atlis 2.3 looks ok and comes as .8 or .9 I think...
I loved the slammed look when I first started trimming it, had to get a pic of that.
The camera flash also makes it look darker than it is, and I'm not sure I'd buy another Protoform shell, .7mm lexan just makes it seem more fragile than it needs to be for club level racing, considering I'm still a hack, it will be trashed in no time, Blitz Atlis 2.3 looks ok and comes as .8 or .9 I think...