Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

Hi Dennis, good luck with the new car, it is much better than the G4S or the +. let me know if you need a good base setup, i can email you the setup . cheers. Patto...

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

hello all,
wondering whether it's normal for my car's rear wheels to be off the ground when i brake?

i'm running front spool...
if i reduce my brake bite, braking distance is too long.

British Menace

Hello Dennis.

It's good to hear from you. I think you'll like the RS. It's the best in a long line of G4 cars.
Be interested to see what you think.

Regards,
British Menace lol,,,...happy, after a fun weekends racing !!

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

How much rear droop are you running?....sounds like you need to add some more, maybe your front shock oil is too thin?

British Menace

Yes. It does sound wierd. Your rear tires comming off the ground .....

Rear droop and front shock oil deffinately the places to start.

If the track is smooth, try 3mm below ride hight. If it's bumpy, I would go to 4mm.

Front shock oil is a very personal choice. But I would say at least 425 CPS (Around 35WT)

See how you go.

Regards,
British Menace

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

well..., using droop gauge; i got 1 on front and 3 on rear...
front shock oil is 600 and rear is 500 and my frt spring is TM 1.6mm where my rear spring is TM 1.5mm...

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

try looking at checking your swaybars. use the blocks with no shocks on. check the rear bar not letting one side fall down to droop. same as the front. when using your droop blocks, set the car up with no shocks on. when you do put the shocks back on, recheck the settings, one shock a little shorter will hold up one arm some and cause the car to be tweaked.
those settings you use shouldnt create your problem. would be a smooth track you run on though. its not uncommon to see wheels off the ground though. also one more thing to check, front universals. if your track width is too narrow, your shafts might be bottoming out in the cups, not allowing the front shocks to work properly ?

Rick Vessell

iTrader: (10)

Hello G4 gang,

Finishing up my build and wondered if my car was atypical. I've had many fit and build issues with my kit. I had the rear swaybar problem like others I've seen on here. Fixed that with different ball cups. I've had problems with ballcups being too tight, hingepin fits being off (especially the front when the swaybar holders are on), alignment of screwholes between the radio tray and front bulkheads. I could go on but I won't bore you all. Is this typical of this kit or did I get a bad sample? I can't wait to get it on the track, just wanted to know if my build up was unusual.

Thanks,
Socko

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

not very typical. i always start all the radio screws a few threads, then tighten the tray from the middle out. i have had tight ball cups, the front swaybars are designed to be adjustable, so the 2 cams are used to get the right balance on the swaybar. always leave them loose when you set your droop, then tighten them, then recheck once tightened. again i do this with no shocks on. run the car for a test session to get used to it, then after recheck all the cups, they should have loosened up some. hope you enjoy the car.

Jorge G

Hello to all, I am having some serious trouble with my second gear. It strips after some 10-15 minutes of runtime. 4 Different people have tried to setup the gear mesh and it always seems to be fine but the second always strips after some usage. I am running 16/52 and 21/46 so I think it has nothing to do with the gearing choice. Any Ideas? Thanks in advance!

British Menace

There are a couple of things that can cause this problem.

Check your two speed shoes and the clearence between these and the housing. A tell-tale sign that this clearence is too large is that when the car changes up to second. It's really abrupt and there is a distinct and sudden change in the sound of the motor. This can cause stripping problems.
Check the clearence is set to minimal without binding on the housing using the set screws on the shoes.

The other issue is that there are still some kits that are being supplied with incorrect length screws for mounting the Engine mount to chassis!
The two screws nearest the exhaust use the same threaded holes as the engine to mount screws. The length of these cause the two screws to meet in the middle. When you measure them, it seams there is a mm clearence. But when assembled, these screws meet and cause the screws and motor to feel tight and in place. But the motor moves and second gear can get stripped.
Use shorter screws for the exhaust side engine mounts to take away this problem.

Also, check the spure gear is fully seated in the housing before tightening down the nut. Ensure, obviously, the small flange on the nut is towards the gear.

Sorry to ask you to look at the obvious but there's not alot else that can effect and cause this.
Check also the pin used for the two speed drive (going through the two speed shaft) is the correct one! Some are just one mm longer/shorter. You want to place the longer one in. You can get too much movement from the shoes if you use the shorter ones. Could even get jammed in!

Hope this all helps.

British Menace

British Menace

Not a typical kit Socko ! ...........lol. Trust you too pick up a a "non conformer" ....lol

Still. It wont dissopoint you!!
There's going to be quite a team at the Byron's.............. the G4 team................. Rises from the Ashe's ....lol

Regards,

British Menace

sonyb

iTrader: (1)

Team magic on road

British Menace

Ahhh ....now you say.
If you would have told us earlier we would not have had to change the 'Flux Capacitors' so often.
The very fact that your offering free 'De-spongelator's' shows you knew about the problem for a while.......... I don't understand why we have to send you a sample to get the freeby though?? ....lol

What else could the above mean??

Regards

British Menace

sonyb

iTrader: (1)

The jet pump water pump service is the high speed jet driving fluid which produces depending on the operating fluid, then makes through the momentum transfer by the driving fluid energy to increase again. Beijing water pump service power type pump depending on the fast revolving impeller to the liquid action, transmits the mechanical energy gives the liquid, causes its kinetic energy and the pressure energy increases, then through the fluid cylinder, realizes again the majority of energy transformation for the pressure energy the transportation. The power type pump calls the impeller type pump or the leaf blade type pump. The centrifugal pump is the most common power type pump. The water pump service power type pump lifting which produces under certain rotational speed has a limitation value, lifts changes along with the current capacity; Works stably, the transportation is continual, the current capacity and the pressure do not have the pulsation; Generally non-self-absorption ability, after needs to full floaded operation the first pump the liquid or pulls out the pipeline the vacuum, can start to work; Beijing water pump service is suitable the performance range to be broad; The suitable transportation viscosity very small clean liquid, the special design's pump may transport the mud, the sewage and so on or the water loses the solid. The water pump service power type pump mainly uses in giving the water, draining water, the irrigation, the flow hydraulic transport, the power plant to gather can, the hydraulic transmission and the ships jet propulsion and so on