NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

let me bring this up with a simple question:

anyone knows the weight of a stock RS?
how's the weight compared with a stock S or +?

Sp Racer

iTrader: (12)

"hella light" - be prepared to put some weight in it !

My car out of the box was 1710 gm ( RS )

charlesd

Hi,
For the spur gears, it understood what you meant

For the lipo vs nimh, i haven't had a problem yet. I immediately installed an 1100 nimh pack and haven't looked back . One thing though, i'm always playing with my end point adjustment. I put my servo through to it's highest end point and adjust with the trim until i can hear the servo has stopped forcing. (sometimes hard to do if someone is reving beside you). I then repeat it. I get full servo throw without forcing the servo. It's an old habit.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

there is a 48t 2nd spur floating around, but i dont think its an S class gear, and it wouldnt be a duro gear , which is what u need for the G4RS. i find 46/47 2nd spurs with 52t 1st is mainly what i use all the time. the std pinions for the ED are a great starting point, and very rarely change those either, apart from a low bottom end engine, then i use 15t .

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

Hi Charles, good to see your still running the car.
this is in reply to both you and BM (tony) .
i always check the end points for throttle. any motor change or if i adjust the brake screws at all. it is common practice when i pull the car down and rebuild it. my biggest issue was going to the old steering hubs, as they are stronger, the plastic insert tends to weaken the area around the pivot balls. but this is where i was making my mistake. the old hubs have a less opening for the pivot ball, for turning or swivelling on the ball. so it turns the steering till the plastic hits the ball. this is the steering stop !
so from changing the hubs from new to old, i didnt recheck, my bad mistake. there is about 1-2mm less throw , so when the radio isnt changed, it starts to flex the hub, and if you have a killer servo, can actually stress the plastic parts alot to the point of weakening them, or the pivot ball. so i just wanted to point that out for all that are having battery issues. now when i setup the end points, i turn to full lock, then unplug the battery, see if i can move the steering by hand just a fraction more. this has stopped all issues of runaways, as i stated before, when on full lock, your normally hard on the brakes at the same time. cheers , and hope all are still enjoying the car

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

1710g is with nitro, wheels and shell?

i just weighed my converted RS and it's 1647g (with wheels but no nitro and shell)...

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

when weighing the car , a legal limit is 1725g , the cars are weighed after a long final 30mins +. so to make sure you are legal, small tyres, and little to no fuel. body on and then you know if you have to add weight or not to the car. i have the K Factory lightweight front solid axle in my car, and it is considerably lighter than the stock oneway/solid that comes with the ED or the diff of the RS. so i havent added weight to my car yet, and i will work out how much i have to add, as i havent had the new RS with all the lightweight stuff on this car, weighed yet. i am thinking it would be around the 1690g or there abouts. i am running lipo also.

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

oh...seems like i'm too much underweight!
where has all the weight gone to? i'm not using any lighten parts at all...lipos, titn screws, plastic pulleys, etc...

anyone weighed their G4+ or G4S before? my RS is actually converted from a almost G4+...

i weighed the RS chassis (100g) and it's about 20g lighter than the G4S chassis.

lastly, what's a good way to add weight and where?

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

you say you got 1647g with wheels but no nitro and body ?
teh limit of 1725g is with a body. you can add 100g approx for a body, so your actually a little over weight. my 1690g is expected with body and wheels. dont weigh the car otherwise. the 1725g limit, is a minimum weigt. after a Final, the cars are weighed. you are not allowed to touch the cars at all, nor add more fuel to the tank. so as you pick the car up off the track, thats how its weighed. if your pushing the limit, then if you use more tyres than your expecting, or have used all the fuel in the tank, it must still weigh 1725g or more, or your disqualified. 1730 - 1740 with the smallest tyres you have and no fuel, but with the body on will see you safe. the advantages of getting the car below minimum weight is to be able to add weight where you would like it.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

just how your weighing the car now, you say you got 1647 g ?
no body full tank , new tyres, i weighed my other car, converted G4+ to RS and it weighed 1595g.
my new car has lighter front axle, and all plastic pullies, so im dropping about another 12- 15g. so there is a difference to the parts used. as you know the chassis is about 20g lighter, 35g lighter than the G4+ 4mm chassis. lipo can drop another 20g and so on. this just allows weight to be added where the driver wants it.

MRLRCR

iTrader: (6)

Whats a good website that carries alot of parts for the G4S I used to go through raceday but I think thay switched to serpent. Im looking for a ED trans pulley imparticular. How many teeth is the inside front middle pulley?
Thanks

British Menace

Hi,

You need to see

www.wolfhobbies.com
www.ultralinehobbies.com

One of these will get you what ever you need.

The pulley your talking about has 20T.
I still run the G4S but I'm looking at getting the G4RS pulley set. These are "ED" size pulleys but made from plastic so hence less weight just where you need light stuff

Not sure on the part number myself at the mo. But if Wolf doesn't have it on his site. Try sending him an E-Mail telling him what your after. Alot of times they have the parts but just haven't uploaded them onto the website yet.

Worse case, he will have to order them for us.

Regards,

British Menace

British Menace

Try

502321 ...Pulley set
502323 ...Brake pulley
502318 ...Front diff' pulley

This gets you what you need in RS. You would need to go back to the stock shaft's and brake disk if you use these pulleys.

Regards,

British Menace

NitroWD

iTrader: (5)

1647g is with frt wheels at 59mm and rear wheels at 61mm; no body & no nitro.
will try to weigh my car again with body next week...i dont have a weighing scale at home. gotta weigh it at my workplace.

with body i'll be expecting about 1740 or so...right? if that's the case i'll be safe from the legal limit of 1725g.
maybe i can drop a few more grams with plastic pulleys.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

dependant on how much paint is on the body, how many stickers and holes cut out, expect around 100g approx for a body. so you shold be closer to the 1750g weight, but do keep an old set of tires, then true them down to minimum size, and keep them for weighing the car.
when getting the car down in weight, it allows us to add it. now a tweak station, or the hudy setup woth scales is a good tool to be using to work out where to add the weight. if the car is left heavy, then add to the right of the chassis. simple alloy stick on weights are good for this. just make sure the surface is clean , then stick them on. the trick is to get a good balanced car, left to right, then if you need more weight added, you can stick it up front for a little more steering.. etc...