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Old 06-20-2006, 06:57 PM   #1441
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That really sounds like the front sway bar is binding.....
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Old 06-20-2006, 07:08 PM   #1442
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where tho, I have tried pushing both a-arms all the way down witht he sway bars loosened and then tightening them while the a-arms are down, this should fix the problem but it doesnt the a-arms just go back to normal, I also have tried pushing the a-arms all the way up and do the same thing but i get the same problem.

the only way i can fix it is if the right plastic adjusting washer is all the way down and the left is left parallel, but this can't be the way to fix it, both should be able to be left parallel and the hubs rest on the surface.
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Old 06-20-2006, 07:17 PM   #1443
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When you loosen the sway bar are you doing it with the small set screws from the bottom side?...those are the ones to loosen ...and are both of the front droop screws equal and also make sure the front bulk head is not lifted off the chassis on one side or the other...hope this helps, let me know
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Old 06-20-2006, 07:58 PM   #1444
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yes those little grub screw are what im lossening.


and no my bulkhead isnt lifted up
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:46 PM   #1445
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Quote:
the only way i can fix it is if the right plastic adjusting washer is all the way down and the left is left parallel, but this can't be the way to fix it,
you also need to verify your shocks are equal length and that you have not screwed the eylets on them to far and they are not limiting down travel movement.

This is not uncommon. split the right and left between the adjusters. this is why the dual adjusters exist.put one up 45 degrees and one down 45 degrees. this stack up issue you are having is small and is the reason why the dual adjusters exist. once you set them split set the droop using the droop screw on one side. then turn the other droop screw down till it just touches and starts to lift the hub. then use the adjuster on that side to do the final droop height adjustment so they match. Then re adjust that droop screw again until the hub just begins to rise and stop. Both droop screws should be touching the sway bar holders now and the sway bar should be balanced. (ignore where the balancing adjusters end up in their final position, they will not be parallel) If the sway bars are not fully seated in the holders you will get what you are seeing. even with them fully seated there will be some slight variation from car to car. my sway bar adjusters are not parallel on any of my cars. They dont need to be. If the tolerance was absolutly perfect they wouyd not be needed in the first place and we would not have put them in. The tolerance only needs to be off a tiny bit to get a big change at the adjusters. Hope this helps. this is the proper way to set the droop and balance the bar
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:51 PM   #1446
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ok, i was also having the same issue of adjust the camber, like 3mm one oneside would show 2 threads and 3mm on the other side would show 4 threads on the pivot ball but i guess thet same varation comes intoplay u they will never match in threads.


ok so what you are saying is, use the plastic adjust to set both hubs to the surface, even if they are not at the same location, then after that use the grub screws to set droop? what if im gonna run no droop in the front just leave it alone after i adjust the plastic adjusters?
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Old 06-20-2006, 09:58 PM   #1447
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you need to use the droop screws and set it to 0 in front and 4 in the rear. if you don't use them at all the variation you are seeing could be from many other things like the arms sitting on the chassis not the droop screws. if you are trying not to use the droop screws you will never get it the same. If your doing what you say you are doing then the shocks are acting like the droop screws. if they are not the exact same length they are what is creating the difference right to left

you will also not see symmetrical thread engagement between the arms either. this is a result of using a symmetrical parts in some places. meaning the left is the same part as the right. in the case of the front knuckles and such the depth and thickeness of the palstic may be slightly diifferent.
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Old 06-21-2006, 12:31 PM   #1448
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Sam you have PM.
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Old 06-21-2006, 01:18 PM   #1449
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i messed around with it, and now its to within .25mm of each other.


this is what I am doing, mayne this method will never show both a-arms on the surface.

I took all ym wheels off and rested the car on a flat surface, I lifted up my left hub carrier and brought it back down to the surface without touching the right side, but the righ hub carrier didnt return to the surface, it hovers a tiny bit over the surface until u push it down with my finger, now its to within .25mm not perfect but alot better.

my left plastic adjust is about 45-60 degrees pointing up and my right is about 45-60 degrees pointing down.
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Old 06-21-2006, 01:23 PM   #1450
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You did verify that your arms are even with the bars removed correct? If not I highly recommend you do so, it is also possible that you have a bent pin binding your suspension.

Mark
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Old 06-21-2006, 02:00 PM   #1451
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Rc you have my number if you need any additional help.
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Old 06-21-2006, 02:05 PM   #1452
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yeah i know thanks, i'm gonna go run tomorrow and see how the car acts and responds, if I have issues I'll call you from the track. I'm Eric btw incase I call you, im not gonna call myself rcrevolution
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Old 06-22-2006, 07:09 PM   #1453
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Could someone email me a copy of the Toledo race calendar , I had a paper copy and lost it and since Ray changed the web page I have done everthing and cant make the task bar across the page work.
Gary M. ( Mac ) please email me at
( [email protected] )
Thanks Mac/ Gary M.

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Old 06-22-2006, 09:38 PM   #1454
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Hey drop the REv 12 from Orion, all i can say holy crap, the engine is insane did the breakin,dam the thing want to go faster as you richin it, man i think i shall be gettin another.gearing 18/51,23/46 pipe skyline vr12 plus.
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Old 06-22-2006, 09:51 PM   #1455
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Dennis,

Thanks for bringing those belts to me for the Nats. They worked very well.


Chris
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