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Old 06-13-2006, 06:05 PM   #1381
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
Oh well, comming from electric racing I guess I am just used to this kind of thing. I remember with my last sedan, Xray Fk05, I would have to take screws out of the upper deck loosen the opisite side, remove the bumber, and a bulkhead to change from a front diff to a 1-way and the have to reset the tweak so the car world be drivable.

What I would really like to see is some way to change the rear diff lube without having to take the diff out of the car. If they were to come up with a casing that had a filling hole and a means to drain the diff before a refill I would be in hog heaven.

Mark
it is too hard to do so because the viscosity of diff fluid is too think, not wy can drain it clean with just hole., it will end up too many old oil in the diff result and undesireble diff oil weight.
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Old 06-13-2006, 07:43 PM   #1382
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Steering Rod problems!


anyone else have issues with the stock tie rods for the steering? mine get tossed off alignment with every little tap, it seems the rod's threads are too tiny and slip imediately.

anyone else have this problem and how did you fix it? Im thinking of ordering same length tie rods from like lunsford and putting rpm rod ends on it maybe that will fix it.


anyways heres my mongoose running at bpt, at first the tranny wasnt shifting but i got it fixed towards the end....now its shifting too early......figures.

http://media.putfile.com/BPT-Run

Practice makes perfect and I'm getting alot better
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Old 06-14-2006, 03:50 AM   #1383
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Default Steering tie rods.........

The steering tie rods were the first things to go on my car. Yes the threads are to small. I used lock tite on them at a race for a temp. fix. I too put on the lunsford tire rods and x-ray captured ball end. I never liked ball cups for steering linkages. Dennis has told TM about the problem.
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Old 06-14-2006, 05:38 AM   #1384
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Ive had the problem of the lower shock ball on the front A-arm come out when mounted on the outside hole.
Ball has very short threaded end and the hole has not got enough meat on the outside edge ,had to move ball to inner hole for the shock.
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Old 06-14-2006, 05:47 AM   #1385
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has anyone used the 26 tooth side pulley?
originaly i was told by an experienced racer that has run the g4 that this gave the car 1-1 drive and since using it i've noticed that the belts strip more than i think they should , although the tyre wear is equal front to rear.
yesterday i was told that this pulley actually needs to be run with a split front to rear to work as it should
can anyone shed some light on this and on the theory on how this setup works
cheers
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:22 AM   #1386
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27T pulley give the closest to 1:1
26T needs about a 2mm split
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Old 06-14-2006, 07:36 AM   #1387
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
27T pulley give the closest to 1:1
26T needs about a 2mm split
thanks for that, it explains why i've had belts go in unusual ways
apart from the fact that they were the [email protected]#ty yellow ones
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Old 06-14-2006, 08:00 AM   #1388
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Default pulley calculator

Hey Joe
I have emailed you the pulley split calculator .
njoy
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Old 06-14-2006, 08:05 AM   #1389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kickass
Hey Joe
I have emailed you the pulley split calculator .
njoy
Alex.K
thanks alex, i just got mail
using this split, is their a good chance that it'll give the car more steering?
cheers
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Old 06-14-2006, 10:57 AM   #1390
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would these rods work for the steering?

they are the same length, i wonder if the treads are bigger

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXSF92&P=7
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:07 AM   #1391
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It's hard to tell from the picture, but if you can find some Mugen, or Lunsford I know these work just fine.

Mark
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Old 06-14-2006, 11:14 AM   #1392
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For the more experienced racers.
Have the car ,what would be option parts needed for a person to compete on a national level ??
Parts that will help with tuning and setup of car at various venues and not spares.
I noted the following ,please add and say why.

0.Setup book for recording all necessary changes to car.
1.Centax clutch springs of various tensions.
2.Shock springs of assorted tensions.
3.Ball differential for front and rear (if not, opinions please)
4.Set of various size brake and side pulleys.
5.Diff oils of various viscosities.
6.Shock oils of various viscosities.
7.Selection of tune pipes and headers ie:rpm,midrange,torque.
8.......
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Old 06-14-2006, 12:52 PM   #1393
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
would these rods work for the steering?
I remember measuring mine at almost 2 inches

I was going to get Lunsford 1 7/8" and use RPM ball cups. Maybe I need to re-measure
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Old 06-14-2006, 01:02 PM   #1394
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
For the more experienced racers.
Have the car ,what would be option parts needed for a person to compete on a national level ??
Parts that will help with tuning and setup of car at various venues and not spares.
I noted the following ,please add and say why.

0.Setup book for recording all necessary changes to car.
1.Centax clutch springs of various tensions.
2.Shock springs of assorted tensions.
3.Ball differential for front and rear (if not, opinions please)
4.Set of various size brake and side pulleys.
5.Diff oils of various viscosities.
6.Shock oils of various viscosities.
7.Selection of tune pipes and headers ie:rpm,midrange,torque.
8.......
I don't think G4 has front ball diff. you might want to have the one way/ solid front. and a gear diff with no oil so that you can add the right one according to track just in case.

rear ball diff if you like or a few more gear diffs with different weight oil.

you need pinion and spur gear of various size, not just for spare but also tune your car according to track.

always bring extra battery both Tx and Rx. Tx is ok if you use high capacity rechargable and juice it up the night before. but always bring extra Rx battery because battery on G4 is topped at 1000mah, the stock one is 800mah. (in fact, I check the Rx battery with ICE charger, it topped at 820mah)
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Old 06-15-2006, 01:22 AM   #1395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
I don't think G4 has front ball diff. you might want to have the one way/ solid front. and a gear diff with no oil so that you can add the right one according to track just in case.

rear ball diff if you like or a few more gear diffs with different weight oil.

you need pinion and spur gear of various size, not just for spare but also tune your car according to track.

always bring extra battery both Tx and Rx. Tx is ok if you use high capacity rechargable and juice it up the night before. but always bring extra Rx battery because battery on G4 is topped at 1000mah, the stock one is 800mah. (in fact, I check the Rx battery with ICE charger, it topped at 820mah)
hey buddy, i was wondering if you can help me. i can't seem to move the spur gears backwards like other cars out there. it seems like it's locked on something. i changed my one-way up front into this blue anodized solid front. my car is the rd logics mongoose by the way. the car drives fine at all. it's just weird how i can't move the car back with my hand. the gears tend to lock up and wheels wont turn either. but pushing the car forward is fine.
can you help me out?

tks
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