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Old 06-12-2006, 02:33 PM   #1366
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Brian Berry, you have a PM
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Old 06-12-2006, 03:18 PM   #1367
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Darkseid what screws are those? are they the ones that come with the conversion kit or the ones for rcscrewz?

i want to but the kit from rcscrewz but I dont know if I should get the g4s kit for the mongoose or the g4(original) kit for the mongoose.

also do their screws still grip well? cause i notice they have different threads.
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Old 06-12-2006, 05:22 PM   #1368
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
Darkseid what screws are those? are they the ones that come with the conversion kit or the ones for rcscrewz?

i want to but the kit from rcscrewz but I dont know if I should get the g4s kit for the mongoose or the g4(original) kit for the mongoose.

also do their screws still grip well? cause i notice they have different threads.
I don't think the Mongoose screw kit will have all the screw that G4S need, I might be wrong since I bought mine 3 years ago.
I will suggest to count and measure the screws on G4S and buy them seperately.
From my experience, screw from RC screw are not consistant.
these day I prefer to get flat head and socket head from Hex Screw (I destroy the front of my Mongoose before I can put a scratch on those screws in teh front) and get some Ti screw for buttom head from someone else.

the main reason I deal away from RC Screwz is because their hex isn't precise and deap enough for buttom head and flat head.
I only use them on low stress area ONLY because I have plenty yet don't like to bent screw on the track.
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Old 06-12-2006, 09:36 PM   #1369
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See ya all after the nats.
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Old 06-12-2006, 09:57 PM   #1370
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Darkseid,

You now have a G4s with a completely different weight distributiion and steering system. Use the base set up in the manual or the last one reported here on this thread whicj was froma cincinati race. Real good base setups to start.

The car looks great! Good Luck and Good Racing!

Sam
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Old 06-13-2006, 12:46 AM   #1371
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hey all I am thinking about getting an g4. Has anyone ever used the
K - Factory Alum. One Piece 32TFrt One Way/Solid Axle?

thanks Jason
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:28 AM   #1372
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscamry
hey all I am thinking about getting an g4. Has anyone ever used the
K - Factory Alum. One Piece 32TFrt One Way/Solid Axle?

thanks Jason
it is a standard in G4S, a decent piece of parts that reduce the need of disassamble the front end which is the only pain of G4 Series
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Old 06-13-2006, 08:08 AM   #1373
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Carbreaker
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Old 06-13-2006, 11:40 AM   #1374
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Car Breaker
it is a standard in G4S, a decent piece of parts that reduce the need of disassamble the front end which is the only pain of G4 Series
about how many scews and time does it take to remove the front end, if youhad to replace the diff?

thanks Jason
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Old 06-13-2006, 11:42 AM   #1375
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less than an RRR or an FW05 as you dont have to touch the radio tray.
front diff change time on the G4s is the quickest I have come across, unless the belt wants to be awkward.
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:42 PM   #1376
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiMo
less than an RRR or an FW05 as you dont have to touch the radio tray.
front diff change time on the G4s is the quickest I have come across, unless the belt wants to be awkward.
Changing front diff of G4 is quicker but not quickest, 710 and MTX4 is quicker then G4. I see a potential change in G4 bulkhead that can make it even faster changing, only if TM can figure it out



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Old 06-13-2006, 02:36 PM   #1377
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I am fairly sure the Kyosho has a quick release from diff similar to the G4's quick release rear diff on their newest RRR kit.

Although its one of the more time consuming changes to make on the car, it is fairly easy and doesn't take that long to change the front diff. On the rare occasciot you need to change the front diff simply:

1. remove the front bumber assembly
2. remove the front upper bulhead brace
3. remove front shock tower
4. remove 1 front arm hing pin and pull arm out of the way.
5. remove diff retainer from 1 side of car and thats sides bulkhead half
6. pull out & replace diff.

7. re-assemble.

For a slow mechanic like me it takes about 15min.

Mark
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Old 06-13-2006, 03:07 PM   #1378
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with my Idea draw above, replace the front diff will take no longer then 5 minute just as fast as the rear diff of G4
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Old 06-13-2006, 03:56 PM   #1379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
1. remove the front bumber assembly
2. remove the front upper bulhead brace
3. remove front shock tower
4. remove 1 front arm hing pin and pull arm out of the way.
5. remove diff retainer from 1 side of car and thats sides bulkhead half
6. pull out & replace diff.

7. re-assemble.
That's how I do it
I had the RRR and that front quick release only worked if you took of the radio plate, it was actually quicker to do it like the G4 as mentioned above but then getting those belt tension rings in the correct slots were a pain.
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Old 06-13-2006, 05:10 PM   #1380
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Oh well, comming from electric racing I guess I am just used to this kind of thing. I remember with my last sedan, Xray Fk05, I would have to take screws out of the upper deck loosen the opisite side, remove the bumber, and a bulkhead to change from a front diff to a 1-way and the have to reset the tweak so the car world be drivable.

What I would really like to see is some way to change the rear diff lube without having to take the diff out of the car. If they were to come up with a casing that had a filling hole and a means to drain the diff before a refill I would be in hog heaven.

Mark
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