R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 06-08-2006, 08:20 PM   #1306
Regional Moderator
 
daniz24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: D-Square Racing
Posts: 3,189
Default

From my opinion Mugen shock is better, I just dont like the G4S shock's bladder.
Btw, Im using Yokomo SS Shock with RS piston with very good result.
daniz24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 08:24 PM   #1307
Tech Master
 
rcrevolution's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Somewhere Delicious
Posts: 1,281
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rcrevolution
Default

would i be able to mount mtx-4 shocks on the g4s? or whats the cheapest way to make them better?


also the steering servo is it still tucked in the middle in front of the fuel tank and hard to work on? or has it been changed?
rcrevolution is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 08:37 PM   #1308
Regional Moderator
 
Darkseid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: At my computer, duh...
Posts: 9,033
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
also the steering servo is it still tucked in the middle in front of the fuel tank and hard to work on? or has it been changed?
No, the servo is still in the same place. And actually, I would say the G4s seems harder to work on. The battery in sandwiched between the upper and lower deck(where as it was 2 screws away from dropping out before), the reciever is buried and freq. changes don't look fun at all(where as it was off the side of the chassis and easy to reach before)

So if your looking for easier maintainence, it aint here. One the plus side, the new positions for the items is much better for performance.
__________________
TLR 22...Tamiya F104...
Darkseid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 08:49 PM   #1309
Tech Master
 
SCUBA STEVE's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,850
Trader Rating: 86 (99%+)
Default

Does anybody think it would be worth buying a mongoose for spare parts for the G4S ?.....now a new mongoose kit is like 170 bucks ....would it be worth picking one up for all the extra parts....are they interchangable like clutch, shock shafts, shocks, pulleys, shock towers, upper and lower a-arms, universals and on and on......it would be nice to pick up enough spare parts to build another car in one box.....or a I missing something that would not make it worth it?........let me know what you guys think
SCUBA STEVE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 09:57 PM   #1310
Regional Moderator
 
Darkseid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: At my computer, duh...
Posts: 9,033
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Since I just upgraded, I have a good idea whats different. And I would say that depending on what parts cost, it may be worth it to get a Mongoose for spares.

Heres some of the breakable items that are shared between the two cars:

-Arms
-Hubs
-Fuel tank
-universals
-body mounts
-bulkheads
-shocks(including shafts, pistons, etc...)
-hinge pins

I mean, there so many shared components its almost easier to list the different stuff.

The different items like the UFO clutch, new upper deck, and chassis aren't exactly stuff you need spares of anyway.
__________________
TLR 22...Tamiya F104...
Darkseid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 10:30 PM   #1311
Tech Master
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
I got my Mongoose converted. And I must say I am very impressed. I put the car on the balancing pegs after I was finished and it had a pretty much perfect left/right balance.

Now that I see the rear belt tensioner up close, its design is simply brilliant. I mean, as little as an 1/8 of a turn can really change the tension on the rear belt. The new steering system is very nice. I love the new battery position, brings proper balance and the included wire set makes it easy to get everything set up cleanly.

Quick question, does the new chassis lengthen the car at the front end? I ask because my previously perfect fitting Mongoose body is now a little odd fitting at the front. I had to lengthen the front body holes slightly and the tires are a little more forward than they were before.

Just wondering....

*edit* Just compared my old Mongoose chassis to the new G4s chassis. It certainly doesn't look like anthing has changed length wise, but man, something certainly seems different about the way my body mounted.

Can't wait to get it on the track. I should be able to give it a test this weekend end. No real racing unfortunately, but at least I can try it out.
The rear body mounts are in a different position to the Mongoose. This is why your body is different. I had to redrill the rear holes to use my old body.
__________________
My blog: http://mikesrc.wordpress.com
XRAY XB4
## NOSRAM ## XRAY ## KO ##
www.nbhc.com.au - www.teamxray.com
Z00M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 10:32 PM   #1312
Tech Master
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
does the G4S compare closely to the MTX-4?


I know the MTX-4 has the shock setup that resembles the MRX-4, but is the G4S shock setup the same as the Mongoose or have they changed it? and does it perform closely to a MTX-4?
The shocks on the G4S are hard coated where the previous ones were only anodized.

For best performance, the standard bladders work really well, as long as you glue them to the eyelets to prevent them from 'breathing' as they tend to just turn inside out.

I have also used the mugen shock bladders glued to the eyelets and trimmed to size to good effect also.
__________________
My blog: http://mikesrc.wordpress.com
XRAY XB4
## NOSRAM ## XRAY ## KO ##
www.nbhc.com.au - www.teamxray.com
Z00M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 10:36 PM   #1313
Regional Moderator
 
Darkseid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: At my computer, duh...
Posts: 9,033
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
The rear body mounts are in a different position to the Mongoose. This is why your body is different. I had to redrill the rear holes to use my old body.
That can't be the case for me, I only upgraded, not got a full G4s. The shock towers and all of that remained the same on my car.
__________________
TLR 22...Tamiya F104...
Darkseid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 10:55 PM   #1314
Tech Master
 
Car Breaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Grave Yard
Posts: 1,261
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
would i be able to mount mtx-4 shocks on the g4s? or whats the cheapest way to make them better?


also the steering servo is it still tucked in the middle in front of the fuel tank and hard to work on? or has it been changed?
hard to work on G4S ? I don't think so because it is so reliable that I don't need to change anythig on the radio tray.

the servo still in same position. the only need of a lot of quick release on a car is a car that are either frafgile or need too much change to suit a track. G4S are neither
__________________
Xray X12 2015
ARC R10 ATS
Car Breaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2006, 11:17 PM   #1315
Tech Master
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
That can't be the case for me, I only upgraded, not got a full G4s. The shock towers and all of that remained the same on my car.
Then your old chassis must have been tweaked!
__________________
My blog: http://mikesrc.wordpress.com
XRAY XB4
## NOSRAM ## XRAY ## KO ##
www.nbhc.com.au - www.teamxray.com
Z00M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2006, 01:04 AM   #1316
Tech Addict
 
jscamry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Oviedo,FL
Posts: 507
Trader Rating: 5 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to jscamry Send a message via MSN to jscamry Send a message via Yahoo to jscamry Send a message via Skype™ to jscamry
Default

how much does the g4/mongoose (they are one in the same correct) weigh?

thanks Jason
jscamry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2006, 03:07 AM   #1317
Tech Regular
 
dnitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 311
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCUBA STEVE
Does anybody think it would be worth buying a mongoose for spare parts for the G4S ?.....now a new mongoose kit is like 170 bucks ....would it be worth picking one up for all the extra parts....are they interchangable like clutch, shock shafts, shocks, pulleys, shock towers, upper and lower a-arms, universals and on and on......it would be nice to pick up enough spare parts to build another car in one box.....or a I missing something that would not make it worth it?........let me know what you guys think

Yes, it is worth buying a Mongoose for parts. I'm glad I did because so far, I've used 1/3 of the parts already. I pre-assemble some parts, like the shocks and hubs, so that if I need it between races, I have easy access to it. I've already busted two original shock pistons where the cups connect, and having spare parts on hand was a life saver. Even if the clutch is not UFO, it still a nice clutch. Plus you get a new set of foam tires, bearings, and belts. For $170, its a good deal.
__________________
TM G4S
IDM Evo3
dnitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2006, 03:14 AM   #1318
Tech Regular
 
RayJ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 445
Default G4S shocks and shock bladders.

If your feeling brave. I would drill the shock caps to make them easier to build, and change. I also have tried the shock bladders from a company calles GS. They are a slightly more pliable silicon and go right in w/o trimming or gluing.

If you want to drill them there is a couple of things to be careful with. Grab a 1mm or 1.2mm drill bit. It's small and very fexible drill bit and more than likely you will need to put it in your dremel. Rememeber when drilling only use the slowest speed since with such small bit a high speed setting will toast the drill bit. Place the shock cap in a vise. Grab a punch and tap a small indent haldway down the shock cap on one of the flat surfaces on the cap. This small indent is so that the drill bit doesn't walk when drilling. Clean the threads well after drilling and remnove any burrs from the underside.

When building I place the shock bladder in the cap assembly, fill the shock body with oil and push the piston all the way in. I screw the shock body onto the cap, and hold it so the shock cap hole is facing up. As I screw the shock body onto the cap the excess oil squirts through the hole as I'm screwing it in. Once the shock body is almost completely on i push the piston up through the body and it forces the rest of the excess oil and any remaing oil through the cap. Finish screwing on the body and your done.

This little tip although monor gives me the ability to build the shock ONLY once, and makes them ultra consistant. I hate building and rebuilding for shock with air in them.
RayJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2006, 03:24 AM   #1319
Tech Elite
 
itchy b's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: In My Man Cave
Posts: 4,144
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jscamry
how much does the g4/mongoose (they are one in the same correct) weigh?

thanks Jason
my g4 with kfactory chassis,plenty of hoppups, ready to race with body on and full tank is about 1770grams,
__________________
-Blitz-Rallyhawk-EX 1.5R-Xpress-P64 Tyrrell-Lotus79-Espirit VTA
EX1.5-SC10 4x4
itchy b is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2006, 08:44 AM   #1320
Tech Master
 
rcrevolution's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Somewhere Delicious
Posts: 1,281
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to rcrevolution
Default

1725g says it right on the manual



on another note, are you saying that the stock G4S shocks arent drilled out for a breathe hole? how is that possible not to add one?
rcrevolution is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Magic G4 - LRP Z12R Team Spec 2 - Add RX/TX LogiK Australia For Sale/Trade 1 08-03-2007 02:00 AM
Team Magic G4s MaDaGAS CAR Australia For Sale/Trade 29 05-07-2007 03:30 AM
Brian Berry Joins Team Phenix/Team Magic Motorman Nitro On-Road 27 03-07-2006 05:51 AM
team magic g4 + elephant R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 04-26-2004 07:34 AM
Team Magic G4 "Black Magic" tennessee Nitro On-Road 32 04-20-2003 11:40 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 11:52 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net