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Old 04-02-2010, 07:01 AM   #11341
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Thumbs up G4+EVO

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Old 04-02-2010, 09:06 AM   #11342
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Default Hey Byundy.

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Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Thanks that clears it all for me... Abbey and i went down to Wynnum today ro play with her G4JR. Car doesn't go too bad with my improved shocks/setup, but not sure how it would be with pro tourer engine in it. In the end Abbey killed the HARD Racing steering servo as she found it too fast for her to handle.

Have a good Easter & stay safe!

Andrew
You'd be hard pushed to get more than a second out of pro touring engine, kind pops into second on back straight and your done. I know that I ran an old GRP engine there and I richened bottom to drive off the crank and LEANED top to give me that short burst of top end.

Later when I went to Brendale, had to richen the top 1 turn as I starved it 1/2 way down the back straight.

Bayside is a good place to mix up your setups and experience a different style of engine tuning and chassis config.

All good.. Saw Simon Nicholson at Brendale and will probably head out for look see and hunt for some easter eggs and join the crew for some festive spirit on Easter Sat..

PS: Ran my original G4 tonight in Gas with TG.. didnt do too bad ut should have changed the plug I think. Will do engine overhaul in the morning

h
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:12 AM   #11343
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Blis:

You are right, Wynnum is a different track to setup for. I have been running at it's current location and at the workers club on and off over the last 10 years or so.

Will head back down tomorrow as i have repaired the JR for Abbey. Hope she finds the brake otherwise i will be a marshall until it breaks again

All:

After the disappointment of the 2009 edition G4RS i have gone back to completing my 2008 G4RS with a few mods.

I have remounted the receiver to the top deck to try and stop it overheating a shutting down like i had happen the G4+ Evo last year. While i had Mr Dremel out, i sliced the top off the carry handle to get better airflow over the engine heatsink.

I will give it a shake down tomorrow at Wynnum and see how we go!

Cheers
Andrew
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:52 PM   #11344
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why was the 2009 g4rs a disappointment?

I still have a brand spanking new g4rs from 2008 I need to buy a pipe for it...
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:41 PM   #11345
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Default it's a good car.. can be better!

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why was the 2009 g4rs a disappointment?

I still have a brand spanking new g4rs from 2008 I need to buy a pipe for it...
I dont think it was a dissappointment as much as it was an evolution that needs development and there's not enough garage support and all the parts are new and non-interchangable from the previous 502x chassis.

I think it would have been wiser to have waited and released an RS09 EVO along with the 09JR, or called the RS a JR like it really is, so that drivers could have had options to work with. My first impressions were the split rear bulkheads were too small for plastics, and there was not enough alloy overall to compete with other matured chassis'

Since the RS09 a lot of of 502X chassis have come onto market second hand in my midst and my 2 years with the 502x has been shared with these new comers. It's not boasting, it's just fact that all chassis have their particular issues and sharing common tips always improves performance.

It didnt help that the distributor in Australia also acquired the Xray product and the outcome would be obvious, nothing against the distributor, he's gotta do what the market wants of him.

Hence, all the main guys running RS09s have jumped ship and there's a bunch of 502x runners enjoying a large amount of 2nd parts and chassis available and the same I hope happens with the RS09.

I think TM has done the right thing not pulling the plug on the 502x parts, if they did, I fear they'd lose even more market share. So whilst Ive invested a large budget into the 502x Im not in a position to move to the RS09 until such time an EVO appears and by them it might be worth looking into.

Unfortunately for TM I also feel that this will probably clash with the Mugen releases and there's so much momentum with other brands at the moment, they'll need to have a serious think about keeping the cars in the garages.
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:43 PM   #11346
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so I am still ok if I decide to run my G4RS 08 and a break something right?
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:49 PM   #11347
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Default Receivers bay

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Blis:

You are right, Wynnum is a different track to setup for. I have been running at it's current location and at the workers club on and off over the last 10 years or so.

Will head back down tomorrow as i have repaired the JR for Abbey. Hope she finds the brake otherwise i will be a marshall until it breaks again

All:

After the disappointment of the 2009 edition G4RS i have gone back to completing my 2008 G4RS with a few mods.

I have remounted the receiver to the top deck to try and stop it overheating a shutting down like i had happen the G4+ Evo last year. While i had Mr Dremel out, i sliced the top off the carry handle to get better airflow over the engine heatsink.

I will give it a shake down tomorrow at Wynnum and see how we go!

Cheers
Andrew

Bundy... seems Im one of the rare TM 502x runners that mounts the receiver where it should be. I use Spectrum micro's, I then sheild the receiver with foam and encase in a balloon.. Touch wood.. ZERO failures for years.
Luis will vouch for that.

Note: I run the lightened chassis, with 1mm bottom and I run one peice engine mounts for better heat transfer. I take great care wiring the top plate and simply interchange the running top plate from car to car. I also repack a fresh set of AAA cells from Jaycar every 3-6 months.
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Old 04-04-2010, 07:03 PM   #11348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blis View Post
Bundy... seems Im one of the rare TM 502x runners that mounts the receiver where it should be. I use Spectrum micro's, I then sheild the receiver with foam and encase in a balloon.. Touch wood.. ZERO failures for years.
Luis will vouch for that.

Note: I run the lightened chassis, with 1mm bottom and I run one peice engine mounts for better heat transfer. I take great care wiring the top plate and simply interchange the running top plate from car to car. I also repack a fresh set of AAA cells from Jaycar every 3-6 months.
How do you connect the cells? I've been told not to solder them.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:54 AM   #11349
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I had no problem with the RX in the stock location, this was on a JS chassis with no cooling slot under the engine, and my old jammin also running very hot.

For me I just put the RX in upside-down, then wrapped and covered the receiver plastic cage with good Nito electric tape, so far it's worked just fine.

What did give me greif, was the TM brand RX battery pack, they are waaaaay over rated at 1100mah, and they take a huge voltage hit under servo load, I have the spektrum with telemetry etc, so it allowed me to see the RX pack constantly dropping to brown out type levels.

I was going to try a cap, but in the end I built a pack from Jaycar cells, and it takes more charge than a TM pack, and does not drop voltage like the TM packs under load.

For building RX packs, soldering is fine, but it's all about not overheating the cells, so work quickly and don't hold on your iron too long, last pack I build I used the tabbed cells, but I can tin quicker with wires, so next pack for me will be done with wires, which you can dab on very fast.
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Old 04-05-2010, 05:03 AM   #11350
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution View Post
why was the 2009 g4rs a disappointment?

I still have a brand spanking new g4rs from 2008 I need to buy a pipe for it...
For starters the manul is incomplete for just simple things like the length of the tie rod from the steering servo to the bellcrank. I also found it difficult to get a gear mesh on the Ofna Jammin .12! The cutouts on the chassis didn't seem to allow enough movements, it is the first time i have used the engine and it could very well be the cause as so many millions of engine/chassis combos out there for manufacturers to cater for....

I still have the car and hope to use it at some stage, but alot of people also seemed to have dumped it and support is not great here on RCTech either!

I went back to what i know for now!

Thanks
Andrew
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Old 04-05-2010, 05:20 AM   #11351
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blis View Post
Bundy... seems Im one of the rare TM 502x runners that mounts the receiver where it should be. I use Spectrum micro's, I then sheild the receiver with foam and encase in a balloon.. Touch wood.. ZERO failures for years.
Luis will vouch for that.

Note: I run the lightened chassis, with 1mm bottom and I run one peice engine mounts for better heat transfer. I take great care wiring the top plate and simply interchange the running top plate from car to car. I also repack a fresh set of AAA cells from Jaycar every 3-6 months.
Blis:

I mounted it the same as Bishop, i got the idea after seeing Abbey's G4JR. I am using Enegizer 1000ma AAA NMH cells i got from woolies, but today i still had issues after three or four laps. All of a sudden servos slowed down... I have since discovered the side belt was been rubbing on the side of one of the cells. All of the cells had just over a volt and total voltage of pack was 5.6vlts....

I have since charged it and not has about 1.4vlts per cell and total of 7 vlts, so i don't know what the go is!

So over RC right now
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:39 AM   #11352
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Default Series.. the casing is negative

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bundy_Bear View Post
Blis:

I mounted it the same as Bishop, i got the idea after seeing Abbey's G4JR. I am using Enegizer 1000ma AAA NMH cells i got from woolies, but today i still had issues after three or four laps. All of a sudden servos slowed down... I have since discovered the side belt was been rubbing on the side of one of the cells. All of the cells had just over a volt and total voltage of pack was 5.6vlts....

I have since charged it and not has about 1.4vlts per cell and total of 7 vlts, so i don't know what the go is!

So over RC right now
Bishop and I did this together, and I pointed out to him that I used heat shrink at each end of every battery in order to space out the batteries and prevent them from touching as we are POS -> NEG in series and if the batteries overcook or the outer wears and touched it's going to be a short.

So we used a small amount of heat shrink either end of each battery to ensure they wouldnt touch NEG / NEG. We also used TABBED AAAs from jacar, although Bishop felt comfortable on trying a wire solder in normals next time, I find the tabs to be easier.
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Old 04-05-2010, 06:47 AM   #11353
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Default Lars.

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How do you connect the cells? I've been told not to solder them.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
Lars, I use the TABBED AAAs the tabs are solder friendly and you can solder them quickly and easily..

We (Bishop and I) used some rubber bands to hold the 5 cells in place and align the tabs. We them cut off the excess tabs with side cutters, quickly soldered them and presto. The nice thing is the Jaycar tabs come with heat shrink attached to prevent shorts while lining them up.

Please note as per previous, both Bishop and I adopted the use of heat shrinking each cell to space them apart safely. Although the TM packs seem to have good insulators on each cell, I didnt trust the Jaycar ones.

To date I have cell packs over 1 year old that still work fine. But for the sake of $25 every 6 months, I keep my packs fresh and never seem to have a problem since adopting this strategy.

I use an ACER Hi Speed for steering and a Spectrum hig speed for throttle

POST NOTE: Oh, and Lars, I also use an old servo lead / in good condition to rewire each time as to ensure pins offer a good contact.
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Old 04-05-2010, 12:17 PM   #11354
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ok, so I know everyone is going to say "post this in the for sale forum", I already tried. Thought I would throw it up on here to see if anyone was interested in a second G4s with a bunch of spares, pretty much RTR without Rx or Tx. If anyone is looking for one, let me know, I want to get rid of mine ASAP.
Thanks
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Old 04-05-2010, 01:16 PM   #11355
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blis View Post
Lars, I use the TABBED AAAs the tabs are solder friendly and you can solder them quickly and easily..

We (Bishop and I) used some rubber bands to hold the 5 cells in place and align the tabs. We them cut off the excess tabs with side cutters, quickly soldered them and presto. The nice thing is the Jaycar tabs come with heat shrink attached to prevent shorts while lining them up.

Please note as per previous, both Bishop and I adopted the use of heat shrinking each cell to space them apart safely. Although the TM packs seem to have good insulators on each cell, I didnt trust the Jaycar ones.

To date I have cell packs over 1 year old that still work fine. But for the sake of $25 every 6 months, I keep my packs fresh and never seem to have a problem since adopting this strategy.

I use an ACER Hi Speed for steering and a Spectrum hig speed for throttle

POST NOTE: Oh, and Lars, I also use an old servo lead / in good condition to rewire each time as to ensure pins offer a good contact.
Thanks Harry,
I'll get some tabbed AAA batteries next time I go passed Jaycar. I know about the wires; its a problem when they go hard. We use nothing but Ace servos now, and we have never had one problem with the cars that we use them in. I used to put cheap servos in our cars earlier, and whilst they were good and fast; they were not that reliable. We also used to have minor problems with glitching at times, and someone told me that he had also experienced that when he switched to Spektrum, and that the cheap servos seemed to cause the problems. It appears that this was right, our minor glitching problems seem to have disappeared.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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