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Old 02-14-2010, 02:51 PM   #11311
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Originally Posted by OutlawIGT2 View Post
Went to order 46/47 tooth spurs from Wolfhobbies and both are discontinued. Replaced with Duro 2 speed gears which you need a new housing and shoes to run. The new gears must be the same pitch, as the 2nd gears 51/52 didn't change. Anyone know the reason for this $30 hit. My old spur gears were fine. Sounds like TM is forcing small changes to the old RS to nickel and dime me to death.

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/search.cgi?keywords=502282

http://www.wolfhobbies.com/search.cgi?keywords=502284
I think it's the 2nd speed hub diameter.
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Old 02-15-2010, 02:32 AM   #11312
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Default Ok.. diagnosis..

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Originally Posted by afm View Post
The cure for this is really simple. When you dial out steering you also need to slow down the steering servo speed setting on your transmitter or slow down the rotation of the wheel on the transmitter. The latter is the overall better solution since driving smoother is the way to go. In testing, every time we slowed down the servo speed we were able to use the softer fronts without losing the rear grip....."[/I]
Having applied many of the other physical changes to the chassis/setup, this was one aspect I didnt look into as my sons are the drivers and I stand below and just watch.

After much convincing.. "dad but I like it like this..." we began to lower the steering rate in 10% increments, and behold the car seemed to improve with each reduction.

So.. in hindsight..

Moving ball joints to longest settings, lowering roll center, castor changes, diff oil, cambers and sways all played a part, but the most dramatic difference was the TX settings.

It goes to everyone for their suggestions.. Its a learning experience and

Much appreciated..

h
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Old 02-15-2010, 12:55 PM   #11313
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Originally Posted by blis View Post
Having applied many of the other physical changes to the chassis/setup, this was one aspect I didnt look into as my sons are the drivers and I stand below and just watch.

After much convincing.. "dad but I like it like this..." we began to lower the steering rate in 10% increments, and behold the car seemed to improve with each reduction.

So.. in hindsight..

Moving ball joints to longest settings, lowering roll center, castor changes, diff oil, cambers and sways all played a part, but the most dramatic difference was the TX settings.

It goes to everyone for their suggestions.. Its a learning experience and

Much appreciated..

h

Another TX Setting that caught me out was when I changed from a Front Diff to a Spool, When I was running the Diff, I had too much steering available I had to dial it out using the TX's endpoint adjustment, but when I put the spool back in, I forgot to adjust the TX endpoints back out.. Needless to say I was chasing stearing thru various setup items, but all i really needed to do was give it some more End Point on the TX!
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:44 PM   #11314
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Another TX Setting that caught me out was when I changed from a Front Diff to a Spool, When I was running the Diff, I had too much steering available I had to dial it out using the TX's endpoint adjustment, but when I put the spool back in, I forgot to adjust the TX endpoints back out.. Needless to say I was chasing stearing thru various setup items, but all i really needed to do was give it some more End Point on the TX!
Yep, I hear ya Anthony... Will setup different profiles on TX as I run diffs and locked on the three cars. AFM's post was very clearly pointing out how sometimes the obvious is as clear as mud and like in IT, it's experience and knowing what it ISN'T.

It might also be time to run 35's for a test to see what happens at the other end of the spectrum and then I'll finally settle for 40's all round.

FYI: Went to Sunshine coast on weekend and chewed foam at an alarming rate on 42's.
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Old 02-15-2010, 03:44 PM   #11315
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Harry, I always set 4 "quick dial" settings on my radios (Helios, 3PK).

1. Steering EPA (reduce/increase steering on the go)
2. Brake EPA (when I need to dial more/less brakes)
3. Steering Speed (compenstate for a twitchy car, what fixed your problem)
4. Throttle punch (when I want more or less "artifical" bite from my clutch)

I can change any of these 4 settings during a race down the main straight. Once you get used to where each adjustment is (like an F1 driver knowing what each button does on his steering wheel) adjustments to these settings come natural without even needing to look at your radio.
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Old 02-15-2010, 04:20 PM   #11316
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Originally Posted by Novarossi View Post
Harry, I always set 4 "quick dial" settings on my radios (Helios, 3PK).

1. Steering EPA (reduce/increase steering on the go)
2. Brake EPA (when I need to dial more/less brakes)
3. Steering Speed (compenstate for a twitchy car, what fixed your problem)
4. Throttle punch (when I want more or less "artifical" bite from my clutch)

I can change any of these 4 settings during a race down the main straight. Once you get used to where each adjustment is (like an F1 driver knowing what each button does on his steering wheel) adjustments to these settings come natural without even needing to look at your radio.
Now's probably a good time to read my DX3R manual... hehe..
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Old 02-16-2010, 04:15 AM   #11317
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yeah same, had to change over to the DURO gears... i didn't have any issues with the old design...

the duro gears have been available for quite some time now tho..

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I think it's the 2nd speed hub diameter.
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Old 02-16-2010, 05:33 AM   #11318
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Originally Posted by anthony_ling View Post
yeah same, had to change over to the DURO gears... i didn't have any issues with the old design...

the duro gears have been available for quite some time now tho..
LOL anthony.. wonder what we gonna do with all those original G4 2nd speed hubs etc... Ive got a collection now. Btw, have you checked if the rear end on your G4S has two hinge ping holes? I swapped back to the original arms on mine by using the outer hinge on the weekend when I snapped another flying wing. Might revert back to the old sways too, or I might try tapping a thread into rear of arm to support the overhead sway system not sure.

Gimme a heads up when you might be heading out for practice, Bishop (hell bent on getting an 09) might like to join and Ray from Sunny Coast and Maroochy Mick has G4 too... I think Paul at Logan might still be using his TM too... TM die hards... And there's Bundy with an 09 somewhere.

That's almost tempting a private TM night sometime... somewhere...
I have three of them... Making a dedicated GAS tourer... tired of clutch and 2 speed changes.
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Old 02-16-2010, 02:51 PM   #11319
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Originally Posted by blis View Post
LOL anthony.. wonder what we gonna do with all those original G4 2nd speed hubs etc... Ive got a collection now. Btw, have you checked if the rear end on your G4S has two hinge ping holes? I swapped back to the original arms on mine by using the outer hinge on the weekend when I snapped another flying wing. Might revert back to the old sways too, or I might try tapping a thread into rear of arm to support the overhead sway system not sure.

Gimme a heads up when you might be heading out for practice, Bishop (hell bent on getting an 09) might like to join and Ray from Sunny Coast and Maroochy Mick has G4 too... I think Paul at Logan might still be using his TM too... TM die hards... And there's Bundy with an 09 somewhere.

That's almost tempting a private TM night sometime... somewhere...
I have three of them... Making a dedicated GAS tourer... tired of clutch and 2 speed changes.
Hi Blis

Yes i am still about... sorry i haven't been racing! My GF took my G4JR for a run around Wynnum last weekend. I still have my whole collection, which does include an RS09!


Andrew
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:27 PM   #11320
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Hi Blis

Yes i am still about... sorry i haven't been racing! My GF took my G4JR for a run around Wynnum last weekend. I still have my whole collection, which does include an RS09!


Andrew
Well it seems we are a die hard bunch in QLD.. Was in Sydney and most have jumped ship from TM's.. Luis is the only other I know of that persists with the TM's.

Who else in Aus is still a TM die hard...? Would love a get together sometime..

I restored my original Le Mans to almost original with brand new top/bottom plates, looks a charm!

Bishop thought I should frame it as I wasnt sure what to do with it and didnt want to sell it off as it's not current and didnt want the headache. But having old bulheads and parts Ive decided to convert it to a dedicated GAS tourer with odds and ends.

As for your question regarding UFO2, Ive experienced the difficulty of TM clutches and gearing, the main problem is the Difference between the size of the 1st an 2nd gears. Subsequently, Luis pointed out that the 09 isnt a MODULUS gearing system and spurs may vary in size, I havent confirmed that yet.

But if you measure the difference between the diameters of the gears and it they are the same as that on your UFO2 clutch then I cant see why one cant use the old clutch on the new car. I could be missing something so dont take it as gospel

I learnt all this early on when I blew out a clutch in my first month of RC and spend quite a few dollars realizing it.

So the 502X series of gears is 4mm difference in diameter. How the 09 and the bell and spurs mesh I cant comment.
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Old 02-16-2010, 11:31 PM   #11321
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Originally Posted by blis View Post
After much convincing.. "dad but I like it like this..." we began to lower the steering rate in 10% increments, and behold the car seemed to improve with each reduction.
I forgot to mention, last Saturday, I was having some loose rear end issues when I got there, so dialed down the rate, later on the steering was feeling slow so dialed it back up, but I can't go above 90% without starting to loose rear traction going into corners. (but below 80% you start needing multiple bites of a corner with not enough steering in the tight stuff).

The Expo seems to effect it as well, got about 20% Expo right now on the DX3S, that seems a speed issue though, with the S not having 'speed' control, but at the same time none of this was doing anything back with the old crap kit servos I was running, funny how you put faster higher torque servos in a car, and at first it seems to handle worse, that does your head in.
But I guess it makes sense, your tuning servos as part of tuning anything else on the car.

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It might also be time to run 35's for a test to see what happens at the other end of the spectrum and then I'll finally settle for 40's all round.

FYI: Went to Sunshine coast on weekend and chewed foam at an alarming rate on 42's.
With tyres, just last night I realised I was not running 42's front and rear last Saturday like I thought, it turns out I was running 40 front and 42 rear, which in part explains why the car was steering so much better.
But that also means in the past I was running 42 front and 40 rear, which does explain why I was wearing rears so much faster than fronts, and kept needing to cut down my fronts.

I have like two sets of 40's coming, those cheap things from WA, you can try some for a session if you like, they should be here before Friday night...
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:44 AM   #11322
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Hello,

I have bought a scale to weight my car and it surprised me that it was 2550gr as the minimum weight is 1725gr. Is this normal for a G4 Evo? And how can I save 825gr?
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Old 03-10-2010, 09:21 AM   #11323
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I am so far behind the G4RSWC and G4RS09 version....what are the different between them now..? And now...this one just looking good..even has no one will race that...but simply looks good.































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Old 03-10-2010, 09:56 AM   #11324
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Hello,

I have bought a scale to weight my car and it surprised me that it was 2550gr as the minimum weight is 1725gr. Is this normal for a G4 Evo? And how can I save 825gr?
thats extremely heavy.
post a pic or list you uogrades
My G4S is just over 1800grams in race trim and thats with the option quick release wheels.
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Old 03-10-2010, 02:26 PM   #11325
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I found the problem, the scale I bought is incorrect.
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