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Old 10-27-2009, 05:33 PM   #11221
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anybody interested in a G4 RS 08 spec nib unasembled for $300 obo ....thought nitro onroad was gonna make a comeback in my area but its not
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:06 PM   #11222
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Default Bundy..

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4 screws to remove front diff cover/suspension mounting, pivot that forward and then pull the 4 screws that hold the cross brace in place, it then comes out, and you have the flush mount hole under for a screw to hold the 5th post.

I'm looking forward to the next Friday night, although I really will need to borrow a truer though before that, I got lucky on my first night, new rear tyres and used fronts gave me just the right gearing, pure luck there, also looking to start leaning out the new engine to get some speed now that it's run in enough to do so.

Brendale is so dusty right now, only part of Nitro I'm not so keen on all the time, the cleaning, fuel and dust makes a right mess, I get the urge to totally strip the car for cleaning whenever it gets dirty, but right now it needs to come apart anyway, I have new slightly better servos to fit, and the sway bars.

Also minor weirdness I discovered the day after my run, the self tapping screws do suck, on checking like every single one had backed off, yet the onces that had been replaced with machine screws were all fine, so a bulk order of hex screws from Tony's Screws in now high on the list.
It's a night race so not really sure, maybe ask min BRCCC..

Bishop.. do the Saturday racing with the 1:8s, they do a good job cleaning up the track! Hope you are use cleaning gum (aka blue tac) a little fuel softens it up.. and careful with air gun not to blow grunge into bearings.
PS: I went out on a previous Saturday with my truer, hoping youd be there..
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:11 PM   #11223
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It's a night race so not really sure, maybe ask min BRCCC..

Bishop.. do the Saturday racing with the 1:8s, they do a good job cleaning up the track! Hope you are use cleaning gum (aka blue tac) a little fuel softens it up.. and careful with air gun not to blow grunge into bearings.
PS: I went out on a previous Saturday with my truer, hoping youd be there..
Blis:

Thanks... Actually i have now found out i have a family do so can't make it. Will try and go down and have a run some time over the weekend though.

Bishop: Cleaning Gum and a clean house painting brush are your friends when it comes to cleaning.

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Old 10-29-2009, 01:13 AM   #11224
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Bishop.. do the Saturday racing with the 1:8s, they do a good job cleaning up the track! Hope you are use cleaning gum (aka blue tac) a little fuel softens it up.. and careful with air gun not to blow grunge into bearings.
I was tempted to run a Saturday, but for now I kind of prefer the short track used on Fridays, sorry about last Saturday, I should have called to say I was not going to show.

Dust on the track is not so much the issue, just with the dry weather when I inevitability go off track, all the grass areas kick up a huge amount of dust, hopefully the rain we just got will reduce it.

My G4 now has sway bars, and new servos fitted, the old stock futaba ones were horrible, new ones look promising, nothing special but they seem a lot better than what I had.
Sway bars are interesting, although considering how sweet the car was already handling last meet, I'm curious to see what they do to it.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:47 AM   #11225
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Default Sways

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I was tempted to run a Saturday, but for now I kind of prefer the short track used on Fridays, sorry about last Saturday, I should have called to say I was not going to show.

Dust on the track is not so much the issue, just with the dry weather when I inevitability go off track, all the grass areas kick up a huge amount of dust, hopefully the rain we just got will reduce it.

My G4 now has sway bars, and new servos fitted, the old stock futaba ones were horrible, new ones look promising, nothing special but they seem a lot better than what I had.
Sway bars are interesting, although considering how sweet the car was already handling last meet, I'm curious to see what they do to it.
Be careful they dont lock.. ie push in too far.. depending on type.. one of my FIRST lessons on setups.. couldnt work out why my ride height wasnt lowering. Ultimately they help reduce roll while having softer springs. At Wynnum where track is quite bumpy, rule of thumb is to remove sways as they disrupt car in corners with the bumps... enjoy.
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:56 AM   #11226
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Be careful they dont lock.. ie push in too far.. depending on type.. one of my FIRST lessons on setups.. couldnt work out why my ride height wasnt lowering. Ultimately they help reduce roll while having softer springs. At Wynnum where track is quite bumpy, rule of thumb is to remove sways as they disrupt car in corners with the bumps... enjoy.
Jeez now you tell me... No wonder the G4+ Evo handled so bad around Wynnum!

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Old 11-03-2009, 09:15 PM   #11227
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Anyone know if the new G4 RS fuel tank will fit the G4+ Evo?
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Old 11-03-2009, 11:09 PM   #11228
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RS or RS09?, if it's just an earlier RS the tank is the same across the whole range from what I can see, but the 09 uses a whole new tank design.
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Old 11-04-2009, 12:30 AM   #11229
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Yes, the 09. I was hoping to install one in my old G4. However, if it's a different size or shape on the bottom I'll have to tri to fix my old tank lid spring. Thanks
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Old 11-04-2009, 02:54 AM   #11230
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Yes, the 09. I was hoping to install one in my old G4. However, if it's a different size or shape on the bottom I'll have to tri to fix my old tank lid spring. Thanks
Ahhh... NO IT WONT.. BUT..

To fix the tank, use a thin hex tool or thin rod with handle and insert thru first hole at an angle then thru the spring then manouver the spring into place ( tensioned becuase you can use the handle of the tool to push it in place) and out the other hole.. then "CHASE" the inserted tool back thru the hole and spring with the tank lid pin.

h
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:02 AM   #11231
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Ahhh... NO IT WONT.. BUT..

To fix the tank, use a thin hex tool or thin rod with handle and insert thru first hole at an angle then thru the spring then manouver the spring into place ( tensioned becuase you can use the handle of the tool to push it in place) and out the other hole.. then "CHASE" the inserted tool back thru the hole and spring with the tank lid pin.

h
Thanks Blis
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Old 11-04-2009, 05:30 AM   #11232
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Default I rember now, pin is hollow

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Thanks Blis
Thats right, the tank pin is hollow and I used a imperical 3/32th (tiny hex) driver that slipped inside the hollow pin.
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Old 11-11-2009, 07:12 PM   #11233
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Default Very Happy G4 S RTR Owner

I posted a few weeks back and you guys gave me some help to get going. I am writing to thank you for the help and to let you know that the car runs awesome. I asked around before I made my purchase for which car would be the best RTR out of the box without building a kit, like a Kyosho Vone or the Xray NT1. I asked which car would be the more easily upgradeable to a race car and great out of the box. Everyone said the G4S RTR.

I am not disappointed. Right out of the box it was fabulous. The engine starts easily on a box and the car handles great on our slightly dirty moderate traction parking lot. Next time out I adjusted the chassis. Two degrees rear toe in, 2 degrees rear negativee camber, and softer springs in the rear. Adjusted the shock position in the rear on top by one hole to again soften the rear. Stiffened up the front shock about 4mm and set front toe out to 1 degree and 1 degree negative front camber. Jaco foam tire 35 shore all around. I dropped the first pinion as small as it would go. The stock engine is a decent engine mid range and goes well after the shift, but low end torgue is weak so the gears helped.
It was screaming around the track. I'm sure to you guys it would not be so awesome, but to me, a newbie, i was thrilled.

Next ia a new pipe I ordered from Team Magic and this winter a new engine.
Any recommendations?

Thanks again for all the help.
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Old 11-11-2009, 09:08 PM   #11234
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Default Engines..

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I posted a few weeks back and you guys gave me some help to get going. I am writing to thank you for the help and to let you know that the car runs awesome. I asked around before I made my purchase for which car would be the best RTR out of the box without building a kit, like a Kyosho Vone or the Xray NT1. I asked which car would be the more easily upgradeable to a race car and great out of the box. Everyone said the G4S RTR.

I am not disappointed. Right out of the box it was fabulous. The engine starts easily on a box and the car handles great on our slightly dirty moderate traction parking lot. Next time out I adjusted the chassis. Two degrees rear toe in, 2 degrees rear negativee camber, and softer springs in the rear. Adjusted the shock position in the rear on top by one hole to again soften the rear. Stiffened up the front shock about 4mm and set front toe out to 1 degree and 1 degree negative front camber. Jaco foam tire 35 shore all around. I dropped the first pinion as small as it would go. The stock engine is a decent engine mid range and goes well after the shift, but low end torgue is weak so the gears helped.
It was screaming around the track. I'm sure to you guys it would not be so awesome, but to me, a newbie, i was thrilled.

Next ia a new pipe I ordered from Team Magic and this winter a new engine.
Any recommendations?

Thanks again for all the help.
RCmushroom has Tuned GRP's ("Stopped of production" and the last time I checked for 199US + Manifold and Pipe.) I run them and they are quite good, just dont temp tune them, they naturally run cold, Ive got two and the old one dropped a plug and damaged button and piston and still runs for 20mins very happy.

Otherwise Im sure there are many views and opinions, budget and specs.. Ideally just consider who the best metalurgists are ..ie Japanese and Italians. From there JP, Nova, GRP, OS, RB.. they all honk and the key lies in the Tuned pipe and primarily your clutch setup.
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Old 11-12-2009, 05:40 PM   #11235
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RCmushroom has Tuned GRP's ("Stopped of production" and the last time I checked for 199US + Manifold and Pipe.) I run them and they are quite good, just dont temp tune them, they naturally run cold, Ive got two and the old one dropped a plug and damaged button and piston and still runs for 20mins very happy.

Otherwise Im sure there are many views and opinions, budget and specs.. Ideally just consider who the best metalurgists are ..ie Japanese and Italians. From there JP, Nova, GRP, OS, RB.. they all honk and the key lies in the Tuned pipe and primarily your clutch setup.
Thanks again for the help. But whats this about the clutch. What affect does the clutch have on the car's performanc. I mean I know that it's engagement, sooner makes for more a more responsive car, but all I can do about that is the softness of the clutch springs and the weight of the clutch shoes themselves ----- is that right?

Jim
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