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Old 10-03-2009, 02:51 AM   #11176
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In the end I ground down the stock disk to 29.60, but you could get away with a disk around 30-30.5mm, in fact while messing around I found the 30mm brake disk off the CD3 fits, although the CD3 disk is very thin.

Also took a corner/edge off the front engine mount, and ground down the lower backplate screws, with this done I can now get some proper gear mesh happening, although only just, really the engine needs more back travel than the stock side plate and engine mounts will allow.

If I needed another mm tighter gear mesh I'd also be out of luck, that would require grinding of the engines mount holes, or the slots on the chassis.
(Or, I just had a random thought, really thin spacers between mounts and engine, as the gear bell sits below spur level, so if engine was spaced up just a touch, you could close up the gear mesh.)

On my short list of stuff to buy, is the carbon K14143 side plate, cause then I could put the original back plate screws on again, and have more room overall, don't like how thin I had to grind mine, and back travel is still limited.
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Old 10-03-2009, 03:33 AM   #11177
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Heat sink on this engine looks a million bucks, no idea how good an engine it is yet, but if nothing else I look fast standing still...
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Old 10-03-2009, 05:38 AM   #11178
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
In the end I ground down the stock disk to 29.60, but you could get away with a disk around 30-30.5mm, in fact while messing around I found the 30mm brake disk off the CD3 fits, although the CD3 disk is very thin.

Also took a corner/edge off the front engine mount, and ground down the lower backplate screws, with this done I can now get some proper gear mesh happening, although only just, really the engine needs more back travel than the stock side plate and engine mounts will allow.

If I needed another mm tighter gear mesh I'd also be out of luck, that would require grinding of the engines mount holes, or the slots on the chassis.
(Or, I just had a random thought, really thin spacers between mounts and engine, as the gear bell sits below spur level, so if engine was spaced up just a touch, you could close up the gear mesh.)

On my short list of stuff to buy, is the carbon K14143 side plate, cause then I could put the original back plate screws on again, and have more room overall, don't like how thin I had to grind mine, and back travel is still limited.
Bishop:

Good that you got it sorted in the end. The one piece engine mount might give you some more play as well.

Nice photos too... shame about the pipe for this weekend!
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Old 10-04-2009, 04:24 AM   #11179
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Default pullstart G4S

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Hi adrian

I think you will have to get some customer shafts made up. I had this done with my old Kyosho V1R out of T6 alloy. I ran into trouble with the front shaft where pins go through for the pullies and end up having to use hardened steel.

Good luck with it!

BB
Cheers Bundy, I'll take a look at a pair of VOne S3 shafts, lots of Vone parts tend to interchange with G4. If anyone else can think of suitable shafts or pulleys?
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Old 10-04-2009, 05:34 AM   #11180
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This picture may be of interest to someone wanting a G4 pull start...



It was taken off a TM blurb to do with their battery packs, I have zero idea what model it is, but it looks like a G4 of some sort running a roto.

My guess is you would have zero luck finding the right shafts off a diffrent model, it's the sort of task for someone who knows someone with machine shop equipment, to make you some shafts to suit, but even then we are talking running without the side plate, and grinding the chassis.

Not very brand loyal, but I say if you really want a pull start chassis, just buy one of the new Edam cars, converting stuff just seems sort of pointless.

But then I also think pull start as a class or format is dead, it's not an opinion shared by all, just that I think when you look around, it's something that had died big time, another year or two tops, and there will be no top chassis's that run it anymore, as it stands not much runs it now, so I have no idea why the Australian body still keeps it alive as a class, more so when during racing you have no need to use it.

Maybe a few years back I saw it, but hey I just bought a brand new bump box from my local for $75 (and it's a good one), that is like the cost of 3 replacement pull starts, so really as a class it needs to die, and the 1HP or similar control engine class needs to replace it AU wide.
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Old 10-06-2009, 07:05 PM   #11181
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Default Help with GS4 RTR Battery

Need some help with this car. I am new at 1/10 nitro and bought this car because I heard it was the best out of the box and the most easily upgradeable.

I am all set up to run it and start the engine break in. When I started the engine and did a final check on the steering and throttle response the battery was dying. I recharge it with a good peak charger and it works for awhile then dies. I shut it off for awhile and it's working again, but not for long. The stock pack is 6volt 600 mah.

What gives, bad battery or what? These are real small batteries, who and where can I get high capacity replacements? Anyone use lipos?

What are some good shops for parts for this car here in the states?

Any replacement parts I should pre order because they will be needed?

Sorry for all the questions.

Jim
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:12 PM   #11182
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So this is a new battery/car?, if the stock you bought is real old, it's possible the battery has sat flat for too long and died, so now won't hold a charge.

600mah is the old version, the new Team Magic ones are now 1100mah, part number 114061.

I hear/read that wolfhobbies is one of the biggest US based shops for Team Magic, they should have stock, or you could try an online HK based shop.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:53 PM   #11183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
In the end I ground down the stock disk to 29.60, but you could get away with a disk around 30-30.5mm, in fact while messing around I found the 30mm brake disk off the CD3 fits, although the CD3 disk is very thin.

Also took a corner/edge off the front engine mount, and ground down the lower backplate screws, with this done I can now get some proper gear mesh happening, although only just, really the engine needs more back travel than the stock side plate and engine mounts will allow.

If I needed another mm tighter gear mesh I'd also be out of luck, that would require grinding of the engines mount holes, or the slots on the chassis.
(Or, I just had a random thought, really thin spacers between mounts and engine, as the gear bell sits below spur level, so if engine was spaced up just a touch, you could close up the gear mesh.)

On my short list of stuff to buy, is the carbon K14143 side plate, cause then I could put the original back plate screws on again, and have more room overall, don't like how thin I had to grind mine, and back travel is still limited.
i have the same problem with option disc brake and bigger ratios combination. clearance is almost none to my nova 3sct crank case on my last g4rs-08.. grind it down smaller by 1mm diameter, and its done.
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Old 10-06-2009, 10:56 PM   #11184
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Originally Posted by authorjim View Post
Need some help with this car. I am new at 1/10 nitro and bought this car because I heard it was the best out of the box and the most easily upgradeable.

I am all set up to run it and start the engine break in. When I started the engine and did a final check on the steering and throttle response the battery was dying. I recharge it with a good peak charger and it works for awhile then dies. I shut it off for awhile and it's working again, but not for long. The stock pack is 6volt 600 mah.

What gives, bad battery or what? These are real small batteries, who and where can I get high capacity replacements? Anyone use lipos?

What are some good shops for parts for this car here in the states?

Any replacement parts I should pre order because they will be needed?

Sorry for all the questions.

Jim
6oomah should last 20mins or less with digital servos. i think its a faulty battery
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:15 AM   #11185
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Default Home packed...

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Originally Posted by authorjim View Post
Need some help with this car. I am new at 1/10 nitro and bought this car because I heard it was the best out of the box and the most easily upgradeable.

I am all set up to run it and start the engine break in. When I started the engine and did a final check on the steering and throttle response the battery was dying. I recharge it with a good peak charger and it works for awhile then dies. I shut it off for awhile and it's working again, but not for long. The stock pack is 6volt 600 mah.

What gives, bad battery or what? These are real small batteries, who and where can I get high capacity replacements? Anyone use lipos?

What are some good shops for parts for this car here in the states?

Any replacement parts I should pre order because they will be needed?

Sorry for all the questions.

Jim
Jim I use tabbed AAA in a 5 way configuration (house like - NiMH from electronics shop) and make up my own regularly, many are now using LiPo with regulators, but Ive found that 1000mAh AAA with tabs work fine and will last a race day depending on track.

You should also check your EPA (End point Adjustments) arent loading up the servos and draining current and that the ends of your battery pack isnt shorting against the chassis etc.

It does sound like you've lost a AAA cell though so it's time to replace.


h
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:17 AM   #11186
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Default Hmm... ??

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Backplate showed up the other day, but I'm still waiting on the pipe, that is looking like turning up next week, so no running in the engine this weekend like I had hoped.....
Bishop is it the brake disk?? Or the Pulley?? I know that my pulley was touching the GRP engine block mounts and I too had to do a little grinding, but not as much as you seem to need. and this was due to the old pulley as the G4+ has a different pulley and vented brake disk.

Has a lot to do with the clutch bell and the smaller pinions on the UFO2. I have old UFO clutch bells with larger pinions, this should move the engine forward on the car.

Also. remove the whole rear bulkhead from underneath, to make life a little easier to work with.

I also noticed your carbi is dead straight, I shift mine slightly outwards a few degrees clockwise to get a straighter throttle, just make sure you can get to the idle screw.

Have spare disk and pulley if you stuff up and can lend you a pipe as well.

h

PM me phone number if you wanna chat.
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:21 AM   #11187
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On my short list of stuff to buy, is the carbon K14143 side plate, cause then I could put the original back plate screws on again, and have more room overall, don't like how thin I had to grind mine, and back travel is still limited.

Before you buy one, try one of mine...

h
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Old 10-07-2009, 03:32 AM   #11188
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It was all brake disk in my case, on a trial fit I was like hey it's hitting the carb, then realized it hit the engine before it touched the carb, with the disk ground down now it's fairly fine apart from the side plate room issue.

The car is almost ready to go, pipe showed up today (it's so shiny it makes my eyes hurt just looking at it ), although minus gasket or springs which made me think WTF, local hobby store should have those, but I still have yet to run in the engine, or even paint my body shell.

So most likely no Friday night racing for me this week, because I can't see me having the time to paint the shell and run the engine before Friday night now, too much other stuff to do tomorrow, and I have been feeling crook since Monday when I had to drive over the southside to pick up a Mazda 6 shell off Heavy. (and visit my Mum while I was over there)
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Old 10-07-2009, 09:11 AM   #11189
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Default Help with GS4 RTR Battery

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Originally Posted by Bishop View Post
So this is a new battery/car?, if the stock you bought is real old, it's possible the battery has sat flat for too long and died, so now won't hold a charge.

600mah is the old version, the new Team Magic ones are now 1100mah, part number 114061.

I hear/read that wolfhobbies is one of the biggest US based shops for Team Magic, they should have stock, or you could try an online HK based shop.
thanks to all for the help and I am sorry if I'm intruding on another subject, should i have started a separate thread?

New development. I ordered a battery from Wolf and that's coming.
But in the mean time I mounted a 6 volt 1600 Mah hump pack on the front of the car just to see if there is another problem.

I turned it on and for a few minutes it works fine and then it starts glitching. This is in my home where I don't have any interference that I know of. Now I have a new futabal 603fs reciever coming for use on this car with my 4pk transmitter.
Just wondering if I have another problem. I was trying to get it to run on the included Am transmitter just to start breaking in the motor.

Thanks

Jim
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Old 10-07-2009, 02:18 PM   #11190
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Default Update to GS4 RTR battery and glitching

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thanks to all for the help and I am sorry if I'm intruding on another subject, should i have started a separate thread?

New development. I ordered a battery from Wolf and that's coming.
But in the mean time I mounted a 6 volt 1600 Mah hump pack on the front of the car just to see if there is another problem.

I turned it on and for a few minutes it works fine and then it starts glitching. This is in my home where I don't have any interference that I know of. Now I have a new futabal 603fs reciever coming for use on this car with my 4pk transmitter.
Just wondering if I have another problem. I was trying to get it to run on the included Am transmitter just to start breaking in the motor.

Thanks

Jim

Well I found the glitch it's in the antenna lead for the AM receiver. Once I put my Futaba 2.4 in everthing is fine. Still using my hump pack sittiing on tope of the chassis for break in. I think the 6V 600 mah that came with it is gone. It will not take a charge. I will contact the place I bought it from to see if they will do anything.

One last question, What spare parts should I have that are the most often broken?

Not including gears, belts.

Thanks again
Jim
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