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Old 09-23-2009, 04:37 AM   #11146
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Default My new G4JS...

Well, EMS was a nightmare because the shipper forgot to put on a post code, felt like it took forever to get here, and in the end had to drive to the post office to pick it up...





But I'm stoked for the price, just overall you can't really get anything cheaper for this level of kit, sure I have no idea how good it truly is, but at the price it was well worth the punt, and I love new gear, also got some must have bits with the order as seen in the second pic.

It's not ready to roll yet though, I got a new HN/Jammin .12 engine, but bought it for the CD3 so it came with a pull start, having some issues sourcing the non ps backplate (will have to come from US), and I still got to order the 2630 pipe I want off ebay, then grab and paint up a body shell real quick.

blis is lending me a starter box so that will also get me running a bit sooner (thanks mate), I hope to have it ready for Brendale Friday the 9th meet (will be running in the engine though), kind of really want to now as have lost interest in running or fixing the old CD3.
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Old 09-23-2009, 04:55 AM   #11147
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Well, EMS was a nightmare because the shipper forgot to put on a post code, felt like it took forever to get here, and in the end had to drive to the post office to pick it up...





But I'm stoked for the price, just overall you can't really get anything cheaper for this level of kit, sure I have no idea how good it truly is, but at the price it was well worth the punt, and I love new gear, also got some must have bits with the order as seen in the second pic.

It's not ready to roll yet though, I got a new HN/Jammin .12 engine, but bought it for the CD3 so it came with a pull start, having some issues sourcing the non ps backplate (will have to come from US), and I still got to order the 2630 pipe I want off ebay, then grab and paint up a body shell real quick.

blis is lending me a starter box so that will also get me running a bit sooner (thanks mate), I hope to have it ready for Brendale Friday the 9th meet (will be running in the engine though), kind of really want to now as have lost interest in running or fixing the old CD3.
Bishop:

That sight looks familar... You also might want to get some o rings for the spring tensioner on the shocks. Keep us up to date!

BB
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:12 AM   #11148
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Hi Bishop

How is the TM G4JS going for you? I thought the userid was familiar, but wasn't sure if was back Ts4n days or not!

BB
Yes I'm embarrassed to say it's me BB, the TT Pro never really ended up doing much, I got pissed trying to find some parts for it, then lost all forms of transport and could not get to a track so sold it (), on my second try getting going I got everything (including the CD3 and even track membership), then got glandular fever that knocked me on my ass for a year, then forgot about it and got distracted with other issues.

But hey, I got going recently, so it's all good, rocked up to a couple of meets now, broke some parts during meet one (all the hard bits at Brendale have magnets in them I swear), but was super pleased with a 19.350, and 14 laps in 5 mins at my second meet (yeah I know it's slow, but it sure felt fast to me), the track time is super addictive stuff.

Of course I'm now buying everything a 3rd time (), but bugger it, the CD3 just ain't worth it now for racing, having felt the need for speed, I wanted faster, tougher and more common parts, be it the G4JS or whatever else I also end up with.

I'll get some membership by the next time it comes due, I reckon RC racing is cheaper than it was some years back, so it's fairly good value now, if I stay on track I'm hoping some Interclub next year, in the mean time I may drive out to Bayside Sunday, see how the electrics go.
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:32 AM   #11149
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Yes I'm embarrassed to say it's me BB, the TT Pro never really ended up doing much, I got pissed trying to find some parts for it, then lost all forms of transport and could not get to a track so sold it (), on my second try getting going I got everything (including the CD3 and even track membership), then got glandular fever that knocked me on my ass for a year, then forgot about it and got distracted with other issues.

But hey, I got going recently, so it's all good, rocked up to a couple of meets now, broke some parts during meet one (all the hard bits at Brendale have magnets in them I swear), but was super pleased with a 19.350, and 14 laps in 5 mins at my second meet (yeah I know it's slow, but it sure felt fast to me), the track time is super addictive stuff.

Of course I'm now buying everything a 3rd time (), but bugger it, the CD3 just ain't worth it now for racing, having felt the need for speed, I wanted faster, tougher and more common parts, be it the G4JS or whatever else I also end up with.

I'll get some membership by the next time it comes due, I reckon RC racing is cheaper than it was some years back, so it's fairly good value now, if I stay on track I'm hoping some Interclub next year, in the mean time I may drive out to Bayside Sunday, see how the electrics go.
Arhhh... understand, I think at the time you where out at Redcliffe! Good to see you are back giving it another crack.

Don't worry to much about lap times or laps, just get yourself back into the cruve. My meeting in March at Wynnum with the G4+ Evo i could only manage 12 laps in 5min.

P.S: how do the shocks connect to the shock tower on the G4JS? Wondering if i can use RRR shocks without using the G4+ shock towers!
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Old 09-23-2009, 05:46 AM   #11150
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P.S: how do the shocks connect to the shock tower on the G4JS? Wondering if i can use RRR shocks without using the G4+ shock towers!
Hmm, looks like the shock tops already have a ball snapped into the hole, looking in the manual with it I'm supposed to use a screw that threads through the ball and into the shock tower, with some small spacer ring between the shock top and tower, although not sure what bag the spacer is in cause it's not in the bag with the shocks.

Shocks have bleed holes in the caps though, which is nice touch on a cheap model/version, not shown in the pics etc, but I picked up the bag with the shocks and there they are.
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Old 09-23-2009, 03:47 PM   #11151
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Hmm, looks like the shock tops already have a ball snapped into the hole, looking in the manual with it I'm supposed to use a screw that threads through the ball and into the shock tower, with some small spacer ring between the shock top and tower, although not sure what bag the spacer is in cause it's not in the bag with the shocks.

Shocks have bleed holes in the caps though, which is nice touch on a cheap model/version, not shown in the pics etc, but I picked up the bag with the shocks and there they are.
cheers dude... enjoy your build!
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Old 09-24-2009, 02:46 AM   #11152
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You know this little G4JS package ain't bad, I'm impressed by the build quality coming out of Taiwan now, everything fits very well, suspension does not bind anywhere, it's all very free moving, lots of steering lock on the G4, massive compared to my CD3, and for the low spec model it's very light.

Only real issues is I still can't believe it comes covered in philips head wood screws, I mean really Team Magic, can't see the point in it at all, apart from that you would think they could have thrown on some plastic versions of the sway bars, but hey they probably want to sell more kfactory gear.
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Old 09-24-2009, 01:36 PM   #11153
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You know this little G4JS package ain't bad, I'm impressed by the build quality coming out of Taiwan now, everything fits very well, suspension does not bind anywhere, it's all very free moving, lots of steering lock on the G4, massive compared to my CD3, and for the low spec model it's very light.

Only real issues is I still can't believe it comes covered in philips head wood screws, I mean really Team Magic, can't see the point in it at all, apart from that you would think they could have thrown on some plastic versions of the sway bars, but hey they probably want to sell more kfactory gear.
It's the same with nearly every manufacturer that makes RTRs. The RTRs have phillips head screws and the kits come with hex drive screws. I don't know why, but perhaps there is an infinitesimal cost saving in the phillips head screws.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 09-24-2009, 03:43 PM   #11154
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It's the same with nearly every manufacturer that makes RTRs. The RTRs have phillips head screws and the kits come with hex drive screws. I don't know why, but perhaps there is an infinitesimal cost saving in the phillips head screws.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
Lars:

Think it also stops new users having to purchase any new tools... Everyone will have a phillips screwdriver in the house.

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Old 09-24-2009, 04:53 PM   #11155
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Lars:

Think it also stops new users having to purchase any new tools... Everyone will have a phillips screwdriver in the house.

BB
Makes sense! Thanks for the explanation.

Kindest regards,
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Old 09-24-2009, 05:07 PM   #11156
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Lars:

Think it also stops new users having to purchase any new tools... Everyone will have a phillips screwdriver in the house.

BB
Makes sense! Thanks for the explanation.

Kindest regards,
Lars.
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Old 09-24-2009, 10:25 PM   #11157
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I'm not so sure I buy the screw theories myself, the package still comes with some hex screws, so it's not like every screw on the car can be done with a philips, so they even include hex keys with the kit for them.

I think it's just something they never thought through properly, kind of like a "hey lets do this to make it easy", but in reality I don't think it plays out that way, it 'almost' stopped me buying the kit when I read it had philips screws.


Fitting the centax gave me some greif last night, supplied collet is very thin, do the shaft nut up too tight and the flywheel can start to bind on the engine, and the flywheel does not seem to run dead true, due to what seems to be a very slight mismatch on the taper between the supplied collet and flywheel.

Also the manuals pics and instructions don't fully match with what your supplied, could not work out the use of the very tiny washers, until I realized once built my clutch had no gap, so tiny washers go on end of SG shaft.

And that was good and all, but then when you go to set end play after setting the clutch gap, you realize with only 3 larger washers supplied, you can't even get close to closing down the end gap.

I'm lucky I had some other thin washers from a CD3/NTC3 centax kit I never used, but I'll have to buy some more of the TM ones, was going to start selling off all the CD3 bits soon.
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Old 09-25-2009, 01:45 AM   #11158
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I'm not so sure I buy the screw theories myself, the package still comes with some hex screws, so it's not like every screw on the car can be done with a philips, so they even include hex keys with the kit for them.

I think it's just something they never thought through properly, kind of like a "hey lets do this to make it easy", but in reality I don't think it plays out that way, it 'almost' stopped me buying the kit when I read it had philips screws.


Fitting the centax gave me some greif last night, supplied collet is very thin, do the shaft nut up too tight and the flywheel can start to bind on the engine, and the flywheel does not seem to run dead true, due to what seems to be a very slight mismatch on the taper between the supplied collet and flywheel.

Also the manuals pics and instructions don't fully match with what your supplied, could not work out the use of the very tiny washers, until I realized once built my clutch had no gap, so tiny washers go on end of SG shaft.

And that was good and all, but then when you go to set end play after setting the clutch gap, you realize with only 3 larger washers supplied, you can't even get close to closing down the end gap.

I'm lucky I had some other thin washers from a CD3/NTC3 centax kit I never used, but I'll have to buy some more of the TM ones, was going to start selling off all the CD3 bits soon.
Hey Bishop, I've been running the G4S for a couple years and also run at brendale. I should be at the next saturday meeting... between harry and myself we should be able to get your kit really moving.. welcome to the Team Magic crew Which engine have you got for it? running Pro or Gas-Tourer ?
My setup for last weekend at brendale
Front
droop 3
camber 2
toe out 1
Stock springs, (tried others, found you loose too much bite with harder fronts)
40wt losi shock oil
Solid Ax / Spool
Grab Matrix 40s from Trackside! excellent grip and good wear.
Sway bar is 80 degrees, (not quite vertical)

rear
droop 3
camber 2.5
toe in 2
stock springs
40wt losi oil
diff has 10,000 (stock), but when the grip is high you will get much better acel out of the corners in the in-field with 30,000
Matrix 40s
Sway bar is 20 degrees. again.. when the track grips up, go 0 on the rear and 90 on the front sway..

with this setup, i got my PB lap time.. unfortunately my GRP engine, lost a couple ball bearings from the rear.. and I wasn't able to run the finals..
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Old 09-25-2009, 03:05 AM   #11159
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Default Nice choice Bishop.

Quote:
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Well, EMS was a nightmare because the shipper forgot to put on a post code, felt like it took forever to get here, and in the end had to drive to the post office to pick it up...

But I'm stoked for the price, just overall you can't really get anything cheaper for this level of kit, sure I have no idea how good it truly is, but at the price it was well worth the punt, and I love new gear, also got some must have bits with the order as seen in the second pic.

It's not ready to roll yet though, I got a new HN/Jammin .12 engine, but bought it for the CD3 so it came with a pull start, having some issues sourcing the non ps backplate (will have to come from US), and I still got to order the 2630 pipe I want off ebay, then grab and paint up a body shell real quick.

blis is lending me a starter box so that will also get me running a bit sooner (thanks mate), I hope to have it ready for Brendale Friday the 9th meet (will be running in the engine though), kind of really want to now as have lost interest in running or fixing the old CD3.
Way to go Bishop..

Now that looks more like an S/EVO arrangment.. nore than an old G4.. so you will be fast.

Here's a few things to note:

1) Ensure you havent got the dud Disk brake pins.. many of the pulley/disk brake pins fall out. Keep your eye on it

2) Ensure the rear locking nut on th two speed is loctited, it's a common problem with them falling off. If really tight. leave it.

3) Caraful when screwing down teh top plate into those plastic bulkheads.. DO NOT Tighten too much. leave 1/2 turn slack.

4) Add center post

5) It came with a UFO clutch I assume. you cant use any other and take note of the model number of the spurs. It could be an ED system so you need to stock up on the correct 2nd gears.

6) Lube and ask someone (experienced) to help manage your engine's clutch before you get all mixed up and confused. Should always service and clean clutch and 2 speeds oneway with oneway lube too.

7) Turquoise, blue and Purple springs are a good start. You can mix and match from softer to harder.

Anthony Ling at track is worth talking to for support.

Cheers

h
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Old 09-25-2009, 04:46 AM   #11160
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Which engine have you got for it? running Pro or Gas-Tourer ?
Just Gas-Tourer for me, so I bought a Hong Nor .12 1HP engine, it's the exact same engine as the OFNA Jammin .12, but I think runs a cooler looking heatsink, the non PS backplate should show up for it next week, price on the engine was unbeatable, so it's worth seeing how it goes.


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Grab Matrix 40s from Trackside! excellent grip and good wear.
I'll likely keep running the Avanti tyres I'm getting from a guy in WA, price is hard to beat, so far proven to grip and wear well on the CD3.

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5) It came with a UFO clutch I assume. you cant use any other and take note of the model number of the spurs. It could be an ED system so you need to stock up on the correct 2nd gears.
It's got a UFO clutch without the UFO part, err so I guess in theory that just makes it a generic push/centax.
But seriously, it has UFO flywheel, spring, bell, shoe etc, but normal weights in place of the UFO disk/weight setup.

And yeah it's ED system, I'm making a list of stuff to buy as I go over everything, general bits, I kept the original order light until I could see just what I'd be dealing with.

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6) Lube and ask someone (experienced) to help manage your engine's clutch before you get all mixed up and confused. Should always service and clean clutch and 2 speeds oneway with oneway lube too.
How often do the one way bearings in the 2 speed need re-lubing?, I gather they generally loose bite/drive when they dry out?.

Oddly enough, the centax does not have me worried at all right now (could change once I'm running and get flustered), it all makes perfect sense after playing with it awhile, I'm highly envious of the guy who invented them, it's such a clever design.
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