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Old 04-23-2009, 11:12 PM   #10741
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for the extra info, im using stock red spring, red centrifugal shoe, single flyweight.
0.4mm clutch gap and 0.1mm end play.
its like totally the opposite from manual. wont it prematurely kill my shoe clutch due to slip?
clutch gap is by shimming at the thrust bearing side and end play is shimming at the spring nut side; hope it's clear...

0.4mm clutch gap and 0.1mm endplay is a good starting point.
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Old 04-24-2009, 12:05 AM   #10742
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this is clear enough thanks guys. will try the setups tomorrow. my problem is, my grp engine lacks so much bottom end compared to my previous engines. it just doesnt gives much punch out of the corner, so i suspect its the clutch tuning or wrong glow selection. any thing i need to highlight for the next correction?
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Old 04-24-2009, 03:53 AM   #10743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nazwenhome View Post
for the extra info, im using stock red spring, red centrifugal shoe, single flyweight.
0.4mm clutch gap and 0.1mm end play.
its like totally the opposite from manual. wont it prematurely kill my shoe clutch due to slip?
As Keavze said it's just a starting point. You will have to fine tune from there depending on track conditions and driving style. It's more a personal setting, how much slip you run. The manual states .4mm-.7mm clutch gap with minimal endplay eg:.1mm is recomended starting point.

If your running the red shoe i think that's the hard shoe so it will wear normally.

Also i have a question of my own, what's the difference between the fly weights? I know it's the material but is there any tuning advantages to using different types of throw weights?
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Old 04-24-2009, 03:57 AM   #10744
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Originally Posted by nazwenhome View Post
this is clear enough thanks guys. will try the setups tomorrow. my problem is, my grp engine lacks so much bottom end compared to my previous engines. it just doesnt gives much punch out of the corner, so i suspect its the clutch tuning or wrong glow selection. any thing i need to highlight for the next correction?
If you want a bit more acceloration down low try running a bigger clutch gap it will make your clutch engage at higher RPM's and should make your car accelorate better. If your gap is to small the clutch engages at a lower RPM and bogs your motor down a bit
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:28 AM   #10745
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As Keavze said it's just a starting point. You will have to fine tune from there depending on track conditions and driving style. It's more a personal setting, how much slip you run. The manual states .4mm-.7mm clutch gap with minimal endplay eg:.1mm is recomended starting point.

If your running the red shoe i think that's the hard shoe so it will wear normally.

Also i have a question of my own, what's the difference between the fly weights? I know it's the material but is there any tuning advantages to using different types of throw weights?
i did read about the fly weights somewhere in this thread, maybe page 30 onwards. more weight ,linear acceleration feel at mid band. most of g4 drivers here didnt put any weight, they claimed its best suited for mod motors with huge power at bottom end like the JL tuned.

as for the material used in the hard red centrifugal clutch shoe(which hold the 2 fly weight), it last longer than the normal shoe. i've been using them for 4 months with not much wear as compared to my buddies at track.
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Old 04-24-2009, 08:35 AM   #10746
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If you want a bit more acceloration down low try running a bigger clutch gap it will make your clutch engage at higher RPM's and should make your car accelorate better. If your gap is to small the clutch engages at a lower RPM and bogs your motor down a bit
running bigger gap will not be suitable for lowgrip and/or small tracks; it'll also make yr car more likely to break loose out of corners.

to engage at higher rpm, you should adjust the spring instead. grp is a rpm engine, you must let it rev up to be in the power band. using a smaller gearing will help.
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:36 PM   #10747
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Originally Posted by keavze View Post
running bigger gap will not be suitable for lowgrip and/or small tracks; it'll also make yr car more likely to break loose out of corners.

to engage at higher rpm, you should adjust the spring instead. grp is a rpm engine, you must let it rev up to be in the power band. using a smaller gearing will help.
That's where throttle control comes in. If clutch engagement is tuned by the spring tension what does the clutch gap do? You can tell i know nothing about nitro motors

Quote:
Originally Posted by nazwenhome View Post
i did read about the fly weights somewhere in this thread, maybe page 30 onwards. more weight ,linear acceleration feel at mid band. most of g4 drivers here didnt put any weight, they claimed its best suited for mod motors with huge power at bottom end like the JL tuned.

as for the material used in the hard red centrifugal clutch shoe(which hold the 2 fly weight), it last longer than the normal shoe. i've been using them for 4 months with not much wear as compared to my buddies at track.
I realise the material is harder/softer therefor lasts longer/shorter but i was wondering if there is a tuning benifit from using harder throw weights. Eg: earlier clutch engagement with harder throw weights, later clutch engagement with softer throw weights etc.
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Old 04-24-2009, 04:44 PM   #10748
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That's where throttle control comes in. If clutch engagement is tuned by the spring tension what does the clutch gap do? You can tell i know nothing about nitro motors



I realise the material is harder/softer therefor lasts longer/shorter but i was wondering if there is a tuning benifit from using harder throw weights. Eg: earlier clutch engagement with harder throw weights, later clutch engagement with softer throw weights etc.
.....Just drive around it !
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:34 PM   #10749
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any one out there now where i can down load a manual for a G4 mongoose team magic nitro car
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Old 04-24-2009, 07:41 PM   #10750
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any one out there now where i can down load a manual for a G4 mongoose team magic nitro car
What do you need to know Chris ?

try this

http://teammagic.com.tw/download/G4EVO/G4EVO.zip
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Old 04-25-2009, 07:26 AM   #10751
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keavze View Post
running bigger gap will not be suitable for lowgrip and/or small tracks; it'll also make yr car more likely to break loose out of corners.

to engage at higher rpm, you should adjust the spring instead. grp is a rpm engine, you must let it rev up to be in the power band. using a smaller gearing will help.
i got the perfect setting today, its not my gap that causes the problem, its the lower rpm. previously i run 0.8mm spring tension, now 1.2mm.. lotsa power out of the corner. but after 5 laps, i get temp of the clutch bell, its 49 degree Celsius!! i dont normally do this, is it normal for a 0.1mm clutch gap and 0.4mm end play?
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Old 04-25-2009, 03:52 PM   #10752
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Originally Posted by nazwenhome View Post
i got the perfect setting today, its not my gap that causes the problem, its the lower rpm. previously i run 0.8mm spring tension, now 1.2mm.. lotsa power out of the corner. but after 5 laps, i get temp of the clutch bell, its 49 degree Celsius!! i dont normally do this, is it normal for a 0.1mm clutch gap and 0.4mm end play?

If you have to wind your clutch nut down that far then it's time to get a harder spring. The red spring is very soft, may i suggest to order the orange spring and give that a try. That will help with bottom end snap. .1mm clutch gap with .4mm endplay is the opposite to what i run and i wouldn't personally run that, that's not to say it wont work but probably not recomended.
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Old 04-25-2009, 07:17 PM   #10753
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That's where throttle control comes in. If clutch engagement is tuned by the spring tension what does the clutch gap do? You can tell i know nothing about nitro motors
clutch gap will determine how hard/soft the clutch engages while spring tension decides when it engages.

no offence mate.
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Old 04-25-2009, 07:20 PM   #10754
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Originally Posted by nazwenhome View Post
i got the perfect setting today, its not my gap that causes the problem, its the lower rpm. previously i run 0.8mm spring tension, now 1.2mm.. lotsa power out of the corner. but after 5 laps, i get temp of the clutch bell, its 49 degree Celsius!! i dont normally do this, is it normal for a 0.1mm clutch gap and 0.4mm end play?
0.4mm end play will destroy yr thrust bearing earlier.
usually i run my engines with 0.5mm gap and 0.1mm or less endplay.
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Old 04-25-2009, 11:25 PM   #10755
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What do you need to know Chris ?

try this

http://teammagic.com.tw/download/G4EVO/G4EVO.zip
hi lou
need steering servo horn,battery pack and a few more bits also would get some spares to
just trying to get part numbers so i can source these bits
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