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Old 03-18-2009, 06:55 AM   #10636
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aahhhh i am having second thoughts about changing to xray this year this car everytime looks more and more promising....
great job tm keep it up
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Old 03-18-2009, 07:10 AM   #10637
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aahhhh i am having second thoughts about changing to xray this year this car everytime looks more and more promising....
great job tm keep it up
while i see some good points with this car, i wonder really how long those alloy rear unis will last with todays engines. while light , yes. how will they hold up ? long enough to Qualify well, then fail in the last 5 mins of a long main ? i hope im wrong, but with so many improvments, they , like the Alloy one piece layshaft ED , fragile !
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Old 03-18-2009, 05:44 PM   #10638
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What alloy units do you mean patto?

I got an email yesterday saying that it was the final report for the G4II so it musn't be to far away
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Old 03-18-2009, 06:23 PM   #10639
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the diagrams of the transmission show that the rear universals are now made of aluminum. I'm with patto too, I imagine its such a small gain in performance that it would be hard to warrant such a degradation of durability. who knows maybe it is a perfect place to shed some rotating mass but i see it as a questionable change.
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Old 03-18-2009, 07:50 PM   #10640
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isnt 7075 a strong type of aluminum alloy? its used in fighter jets and high performance bicycles.
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Old 03-18-2009, 09:30 PM   #10641
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rcrevolution, a high grade aluminum alloy will be stronger per unit weight then steel. so you are right in the sense that if you had a sample of each with the same mass the aluminum would be stronger. however aluminum is much less dense than steel so you would need to have a much larger volume of aluminum to achieve the same strength. That is why assuming the new aluminum universals are the same size, they won't be as strong.

Last edited by gladcow; 03-18-2009 at 09:31 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-19-2009, 01:02 AM   #10642
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If the pins in them are alloy aswell then it will definately be weaker. The diff out drives i'm assuming are made of steel so if you have an alloy drive shaft then the alloy will wear a lot more and quicker than the out drives will. They do look a lot thicker than the front ones though

Any word on a release date yet, i want to start a sleep countdown
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Old 03-19-2009, 04:48 AM   #10643
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ma the speculation around TM right now is soo tempting, we have this nice new car being developed, talks of someone being interested in striking up more distribution for TM here in the states, if all this went down, I would buy another TM product.

Only time will tell.
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Old 03-19-2009, 05:18 AM   #10644
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Originally Posted by gladcow View Post
the diagrams of the transmission show that the rear universals are now made of aluminum. I'm with patto too, I imagine its such a small gain in performance that it would be hard to warrant such a degradation of durability. who knows maybe it is a perfect place to shed some rotating mass but i see it as a questionable change.
"concept"


If they decide to use alloy, it will be the first thing I'd change...

Want to lower rotating weight ?....why not use titanium diff gears and shafts

I had a FW05 with alloy shafts, lasted about 2 race meets before the pins started to move.
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Old 03-19-2009, 06:10 AM   #10645
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why not carbon fiber shafts...MUAHHAHA
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Old 03-19-2009, 09:56 PM   #10646
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I could understand having alloy option parts for those who can afford it for that extra little advantage come raceday. Keyword there is option.

Out of the box though I'll take hardened steel please.

Or is somehow TM is reading this to gauge what racers want, how about forged titanium? Or some kind of super exotic military grade ceramic. Ok Im kidding but hardened steel, really.
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Old 03-22-2009, 12:54 AM   #10647
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I know this isn't the sale/trade forum but i'm desperate, i need a speedshot "X" plate a.s.a.p for the up comming state tittles. If anyone can help me out it would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ok so it's only a few weeks till the NSW state tittles so i thought it might be a good idea for all the G4 drivers to get on here and share their starting set up, their thoughts, tips etc. Maybe we could even all pit together and really help each other out just like a team would. It really does make a difference

OK Styles, Bundy..

This is the setup Brendan & I will be using as our "starting setup" for the upcoming NSW IC titles....no doubts it will change, but after 3 or 4 clubbies where we tried everything else, we continually went back to this.

I suggest if you want to make this work, copy it exactly...just using bits here and there won't work.

We will be using the std G4RS without the WC kit...

Here we go...

Front.

Track width - 198mm
Shock oil - 450 cst
Piston - 2 hole x 1.2 mm
Spring - RRR rear (long) medium blue or Mugen dark blue rear ( long)
Top Mount - kit position ( 2nd hole out)
Caster - 3mm clips in front, 4mm in rear.
Wheelbase - std
Spool ( i.e. locked front diff )
Sway bar - flat ( softest )
Roll centre insert - bottom outer
Toe - 1 deg out
Camber - will adjust when we see tyre wear at the track, but start between 1 1/2 - 2 deg neg.


Rear

Track width - 200mm
Shock oil - 450 cst
Piston - 2 hole x 1.2mm
Spring - TM purple ( 1.5 mm )
Top Mount - kit position ( 2nd hole out)
Wheelbase - shortest ( 2mm spacer behind rear arms)
Rear diff - 30k oil
Rear camber link - we are using the alloy rear bracket ( like the one the G4s / G4+ rather than the plastic RS one ) , the position is the "down" which is similar to bottom outside on the RS one.
Outer hub shims - 4mm
Toe - 2.5 deg in
Sway bar - flat ( softest )
Camber - 3.5 deg - (again, will adjust to suit)

Protoform stratus
16/52 - 20/46


Feel free to ask any questions.


Bundy, I saw the pictures of the aftermath of your car going off line....

I hope you weren't using spektrum...

We mount our receivers on the transponder mount up the front, haven't had any incidents since....
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Old 03-22-2009, 01:32 AM   #10648
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Thanks Luis, it looks good How do your gears mesh? I thought the split had to be the same so that's why i've sticked with 16/51, 21/46.

Also what "mm" are the front springs, just so i can compare to the TM springs

I've also sent you a PM.

Great stuff
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Last edited by freestyles; 03-22-2009 at 01:45 AM.
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Old 03-22-2009, 01:55 AM   #10649
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Originally Posted by Sp Racer View Post
OK Styles, Bundy..

This is the setup Brendan & I will be using as our "starting setup" for the upcoming NSW IC titles....no doubts it will change, but after 3 or 4 clubbies where we tried everything else, we continually went back to this.

I suggest if you want to make this work, copy it exactly...just using bits here and there won't work.

We will be using the std G4RS without the WC kit...

Here we go...

Front.

Track width - 198mm
Shock oil - 450 cst
Piston - 2 hole x 1.2 mm
Spring - RRR rear (long) medium blue or Mugen dark blue rear ( long)
Top Mount - kit position ( 2nd hole out)
Caster - 3mm clips in front, 4mm in rear.
Wheelbase - std
Spool ( i.e. locked front diff )
Sway bar - flat ( softest )
Roll centre insert - bottom outer
Toe - 1 deg out
Camber - will adjust when we see tyre wear at the track, but start between 1 1/2 - 2 deg neg.


Rear

Track width - 200mm
Shock oil - 450 cst
Piston - 2 hole x 1.2mm
Spring - TM purple ( 1.5 mm )
Top Mount - kit position ( 2nd hole out)
Wheelbase - shortest ( 2mm spacer behind rear arms)
Rear diff - 30k oil
Rear camber link - we are using the alloy rear bracket ( like the one the G4s / G4+ rather than the plastic RS one ) , the position is the "down" which is similar to bottom outside on the RS one.
Outer hub shims - 4mm
Toe - 2.5 deg in
Sway bar - flat ( softest )
Camber - 3.5 deg - (again, will adjust to suit)

Protoform stratus
16/52 - 20/46


Feel free to ask any questions.


Bundy, I saw the pictures of the aftermath of your car going off line....

I hope you weren't using spektrum...

We mount our receivers on the transponder mount up the front, haven't had any incidents since....
Offline yes... it lept the end of the straight, cleared the barrier and barrel rolled its way accross the paddock on it's way to the BMX track!


I am also going to have to check the condition of the Picco, might have stretched the conrod
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Old 03-22-2009, 02:42 AM   #10650
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I am also going to have to check the condition of the Picco, might have stretched the conrod
they don't stretch, they snap
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