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Old 12-19-2008, 07:12 PM   #10396
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oh i didn't know the ed trans was naturally geared for overdrive. is there a single pulley that can be changed to make it 50/50?
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Old 12-20-2008, 03:38 AM   #10397
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yeah you are right it is better to have a front split, makes the car drive a lot better but i think its better to set up a car that has no split from the begining as in a race in the end the rear tyres will be smaller again than the front....
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Old 12-20-2008, 10:27 AM   #10398
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yeah you are right it is better to have a front split, makes the car drive a lot better but i think its better to set up a car that has no split from the begining as in a race in the end the rear tyres will be smaller again than the front....
It's not only better, but the car is designed to have this split. The car will wear down the tires equally front to rear depending on your set-up and driving style. Although with the aggressivness that drivers now drive 00mm cars. The rear tires will "want" to wear faster then the rear and hence the tire shore being harder at the rear helps in equaling out the tire wear..

As for altering the IDR back to 50/50. I wouldn't recomment this but you could use the larger rear diff pulley (The older one is 2 teeth larger). This would make the ratio difference f/r closer although not exactly the same. It would be negledgable.

Hope this helps.

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Old 12-20-2008, 04:29 PM   #10399
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I couldn't figure out how to copy and paste the link but go to the serpent website and down load the drive calculator. It takes all the guess work out of gear/pulley changes. It wont be totally accurate but it should give a rough indication on what's going on
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Old 12-20-2008, 11:07 PM   #10400
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hey freestyles, british menace, thanks for all the info. I happened to stumble across that serpent drive calculator. very nifty tool to have, i can play around with it to try and get a 50/50 drive ratio. the reason i was asking is because I am only recently planning on participating at some club racing and i don't have access to a tire truer and thus can't run a split. And as British Menace pointed out, i want to avoid excess strain on the front belt.
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Old 12-24-2008, 03:32 AM   #10401
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I don't have anything usefull to contribute i just thought i would bump it up from the bottom of the page before we lost it
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:43 PM   #10402
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the current batches of RS come with the + sway bar; they did away with the older RS sway bar.
not older excuse me but the first one... there are 2 different swaybar the one that comes with the rs and the one that come with the plus. if you do some research the plus swaybars don't come with e clips it is pressed in and the rs version has the e clips

team magic part #502325 is for the rs.......k factory part # k14130 is for the plus,,,the k factory is the one you want
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Old 12-24-2008, 04:59 PM   #10403
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Good because thats the ones i ordered.
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Old 12-24-2008, 06:42 PM   #10404
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not older excuse me but the first one... there are 2 different swaybar the one that comes with the rs and the one that come with the plus. if you do some research the plus swaybars don't come with e clips it is pressed in and the rs version has the e clips

team magic part #502325 is for the rs.......k factory part # k14130 is for the plus,,,the k factory is the one you want
ya you are rite...
what i'm trying to say is that now the RS kit comes with #k14130; no longer 502325.

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Old 12-25-2008, 09:02 AM   #10405
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that is good news because the rs swabars are more fragile than the kfactory ones.
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Old 12-28-2008, 04:16 PM   #10406
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not older excuse me but the first one... there are 2 different swaybar the one that comes with the rs and the one that come with the plus. if you do some research the plus swaybars don't come with e clips it is pressed in and the rs version has the e clips

team magic part #502325 is for the rs.......k factory part # k14130 is for the plus,,,the k factory is the one you want


The K-factory one actually gets held in place by a grub screw so you can adjust it left to right if need be and then the blades are also held in by grub screws, no e clips at all
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Old 12-28-2008, 09:52 PM   #10407
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The K-factory one actually gets held in place by a grub screw so you can adjust it left to right if need be and then the blades are also held in by grub screws, no e clips at all
right you are on that,, i totally forgot it was all held together by set screws.. i had to look at it to remind me... i had never adjusted it that's why..
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:10 AM   #10408
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anyone knows the reason for the instruction manual that sets the sway bar center piece not in the middle of the rod? it's biased to one side if u follow the instructions.
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Old 12-29-2008, 03:33 AM   #10409
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anyone knows the reason for the instruction manual that sets the sway bar center piece not in the middle of the rod? it's biased to one side if u follow the instructions.

I noticed that aswell Also if you set the links to the size they recommend they hardly have any thread left in the ball cups so i centred mine and made the links an appropriate size. No where near where they recommend though
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Old 12-29-2008, 01:09 PM   #10410
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anyone knows the reason for the instruction manual that sets the sway bar center piece not in the middle of the rod? it's biased to one side if u follow the instructions.
it seems like it's because of the belt, if you center it looks like the belt will rub against the swaybar mount IMO.. that's what it looks like will happen
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