British Menace

Hey Nitro WD,

What Pattojnr put in his post is very helpful stuff, and he knows this car VERY well so take that advice seriously.

You really have to be careful when using set-up guages for droop adjustment.

I would, to save on confusion, check your droop as follows:
Run 5mm front and 5.5mm rear ride hight with 58mm front and 60 mm rear tire diameters.
Now, with tires on, put your hight guage under through the front of the chassis at 7mm. Adjust your droop screws so as the front tires are just about comming off the floor.
Now with the rear. Once your ride hight has been set at 5.5mm.
Put your hight guage under the rear of the chassis at 8.5mm. Now adjust the rear droop screws so as the rear tires are now just about to lift off the floor.

This set up will now give you 2mm down travel at the front and 3mm at the rear. This is a good starting set up for droop.
Note: If you alter your tire diameters and/ or your ride hight. You will need to readjust the droop screws as before.

Now. Once you've done this procedure on your droop. You can take your wheels off and use you guages to check what the droop guages say your droop setting is.

Hope this helps

British Menace

revo523

iTrader: (8)

Hey menace the one that comes with the mongoose will be the same as the "S" models right? If so i will take the one off my old mongoose and trow it on my js what do you think? The top deck and shock towers from the gs will fit the js? Thanks by the way for your time.

freestyles

iTrader: (14)

I'm pretty sure they would fit. The ones on my old mongoose look similar to the ones on the "s" except that there is an extra adjuster on the later ones where the older type just have one on one side only. Just make sure they line up with your hinge pin holes and will fit in with no binding and you should be good to go. A bar that works "ok" is better than none at all

Hope this helps

British Menace

Hey Revo 523,

Freestyles is right. When you come to adjust the bars one thing to remember on these 'rear end' styled sway bars.
When your happy with the angle you have set the bars at. Push the two bars together then tighten one set screw. Then, raise both wheels. This will have the effect of spacing the bar that has not been tightened into position out to its correct position laterally. Then you can go ahead and tighten that bars set scre too.

Just something to remember.

Also. Even on low grip tracks, don't be afraid to try this bar full stiff (Angled straight up) Darren Johnson ran the bar almost all the time this way. And he won 5 or was it 6 (?) National Titles !!

British Menace

revo523

iTrader: (8)

Yeah thats how i adjust the swaybars. Thanks again.

freestyles

iTrader: (14)

I've been trying to get my new G4 set up right for a few weeks now and today i think i'm very close. It was an absolute dream to drive,the rear end was very settled and i had a fair bit of steering and the traction level was awesome which makes a huge difference but overall i am very pleased with how the car is running NOW

At first i was dissapointed with it but after some time setting it up and learning how to drive it i am extremely pleased with. I can't wait to get to the track tomorrow, i feel like a newbie again

I also just wanted to thank everyone who has helped me with set ups and tips along the way they are much appreciated

British Menace

Hi freestyles.

Thats good to hear. I'm pleased you had a good day at the track.

Thats the way to go sticking at it like you did

Welcome to the G4 world ..... careful! .....it's addictive . Lol

British Menace

gladcow

iTrader: (2)

hi all,
this is my first post here and i hope i dont annoy anyone by going a bit off topic, or by asking a which car question but i need some insight. it seems a lot of you have experience with all generations of the g4 and so my question is for those of you. I've decided to by a new car for christmas (currently only have a rs4 3) and I've been debating between a mongoose and a g4 js. I like the mongoose because its cheaper, a kit, and comes with swaybars. I know all the features i will be missing out on like the ED tranny, speedshot bulkheads, and shorter rear end ect... but are there any other factors i should be aware of when considering? I've read contradicting statements in several places concerning the steering mechanism for the mongoose and whether or not it has issues. all the places I've seen selling the mongoose note a steering fix for a belt rubbing issue under the features list. Was this a late change to fix the steering issues I've read about or will there still be a problem? heres an example of one of the listings... http://www.gnirc.com/logics-mongoose...itro-p-87.html

Oh and I'm currently only participating in parking lot races at my local hobby shop until a local track finishes their onroad track. There is a guy there with a g4 (not sure what kind) and his car is fast, which led me to look into these. so do you guys think i should be good with a mongoose or should i find a way to pony up the extra for g4 js?
Mike,

freestyles

iTrader: (14)

That's a tough one but i would probably go with the mongoose but just remember it is a very old model now and the js probably has updated suspension geometry. The plastics in the mongoose are a lot stronger than the newer plastics found in the RS and + but i'm not sure what type of plastics are in the js . The ED transmission can be bought seperately so whatever one you do decide to get you can install it no prob's. I'm not sure exactly what type of steering mechanism is in the js but you can get after market steering racks like the one from K-factory for about AUD$30 if need be.

Also the radio tray in the mongoose is carbon fibre but the tray in the js is alluminium and the position of the receiver in the mongoose is in a good spot, away from the heat of the motor. The batteries for the mongoose are harder to find than the newer types aswell.

Apart from that it comes down to your budget and which ever one you like the look of better, parts availability isn't a problem in the US or AUS and pretty much all G4 parts are interchangeble with other G4 models like the S,RS,+ and +evo.

I hope this helped you out a bit, good luck

keavze

i i really got to choose between the 2; it'll be the JS.

revo523

iTrader: (8)

i have a mongoose and the other day i bought a g4js and its a big difference between the two. the first day i tried the js i notice a big improvement in steering. ill go with the g4js and if you can find a used g4rs even better. by the way i have a mongoose for sale with the ed transmission.

ALG

Get the G4JS, the mongoose is old!!!
It a generation factor, you will feel tied up with the Mongoose.

Have fun an race a Team Magic!

ALG

afm

Without doubt....get the JS....price difference is more than worth it.
There are so many changes on it with respect to the Mongoose, that by the time you finish upgrading it, you can buy two JSīs. Performance wise, there is also a big difference.

my 2 cents

AFM

afm

If you go to Wolfhobbies.com, the JS is listed at 239.95....and if you go to rdlogics.com (the mongoose rep) they list it at 299.00, so the JS is cheaper...with that price diff. you can get the sway bars, if you like, but you are getting a current G4 platform.

AFM

gladcow

iTrader: (2)

hey thanks for everyone's advice. It seems like majority thinks that the js is the better value. problem is that there is about an 80 dollar price difference in favor of the mongoose. i can find the mongoose new for about 180 shipped. however if i look at wolfhobbies which is the best deal i can find on the js, the total ends up around 260 shipped. i just wish i could find a slightly better deal on the js. being a poor college student im finding it hard to gather the money I'm thinking about buying a mongoose, and if my local track starts gathering a lot of competition I should be able to afford something top of the line by the that time. I'm too indecisive to make a conclusion right away. Even if i won the lottery i wouldn't be able to pick one. I'd buy one of each and gather some friends lol.