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Old 11-10-2008, 10:40 AM   #10276
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Originally Posted by enrique View Post
so i guess that supposed "limited edition" is just marketing?
Unfortunately. It's all Marketing. Which ever evolution you get, no matter which brand you buy.

Each model has it's selling angle. The Plus was its stamp (Limited Edition) Number. These wont be seen again. Although the car can still be bought ??!

Selling parts make's money. Selling new cars meam more parts get sold ......... ie new parts being made. Like different flavours of crisps. More flavours you have, the more overaul sales of crisps you will have.

Yes. I know we don't drive crisps .... lol

Take the new G4+ EVO. Is there any suspention leverage changes? Is there a chassis stiffness change? I know there's an interesting difference in the new shocks......this could be an improvement?!
No new roll centre changes or adjustments. No difference in COG.

So what are we buying when we get the +EVO over the RS .......... your getting the new car with "upgrades" which have been around for a while. Nothing new. Just hop-ups, you have already (maybe) all on the one car from new?~!

All very nice ....... if NICE is what you want to buy.
It isn't a thoroughbred racing car .... just a company trying to sell a new evolution of the car.

This is just my point of view. Not everyone has the same idea.
It's a shame the whole hobby is turning towards, or has already been there for a while (? ) just to make money from enthusiast's and with no real thought for the people who will actually use the car.

Shem, but there it is.

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Old 11-10-2008, 11:22 AM   #10277
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Selling parts make's money. Selling new cars meam more parts get sold ......... ie new parts being made.

Your concept is correct bro. but it is not as easy as you thought in reality.

The new EVO is really Limited Edition (but not limited to 1000)..... the reason of this car released because I strongly recommended TM to produce a better car in order to redeem the weakness on RS. However, RS is the best among all other G4 definitely………. and EVO is the ever best. You would see my WC have same scheme already a month ago……. I am not World Champion but I am a real engineer and knew what is the best performance, what racers want and what racers need. Beside, K-factory is owned by TM, their options are better than any other aftermarket options because they knew the actual dimension and they do have in-house testing as well. Most of aftermarket parts just converted the plastic parts to metal or graphite and have dimension problem and cannot fit into the car mostly. If you look into detail, every K-factory option could enhance the performance and not just a bling-bling only.

TM team is great and I would continue to work with them (however, I am not their employee) and you would see more good products will be released later on.
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:14 PM   #10278
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Hi guys,
Back from race at Argentina, This was an invitational race with driver from across south america and USA. The US driver was Chris Tossollini!! He is a little fast!!!!

I was the only TM car at the race, but that makes the things more interesting.

Handling was ok, but the main problem I had was the clutch set up, DAM!!!! I mad every thing, used UFO, UFO2, JP hard spring, Kyosho hard spring, Mugen Ultra Hard Spring, TM Black and yellow spring... different gap and preloads, the best was the JP spring with almost 1.2mm preload. I was racing with JP EAGLE, black version, VERY FAST engine.

I used the brown shoe and the black one, I like the brown, it last alot and has a nice feeling.

The first problem was that the UFO2 shoe was wearing more at one end, I solve this by making the guide hole on the shoe of 3mm, this made the shoe more free, next problem was that the shoe made a "step" on it and ths step made the clutch not to have full contact.

To make it shorter, from the start of the semi, I had problems and I was 1 sec slower of my pace, yes 1 sec slow... as you can imagine I was frustrated the shoe ended with a BIG step, but that is racing and we need to find a solution for it.

The clutch temp at the end of the 30 min main was 110ºC and the engine was 135ºC, The engine is still great

Have fun
ALG

http://www.rctech.net/forum/5012981-post1354.html - clutch shoe wear fix
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Old 11-10-2008, 04:18 PM   #10279
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Thans for the help SP
parts are order for testing!!!
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Old 11-11-2008, 10:16 AM   #10280
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more.....

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Old 11-11-2008, 10:15 PM   #10281
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more.....

Blee,

Your profile states that you're in Santa Clarita, CA.

Where is your store located?

D
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Old 11-11-2008, 11:00 PM   #10282
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Blee,

Your profile states that you're in Santa Clarita, CA.


D
Yes



Quote:
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Blee,


Where is your store located?

D
In Hong Kong, managed by my brother.
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Old 11-14-2008, 11:47 PM   #10283
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I'm going to risk sounding dumb but how do you bleed shocks and make sure they have the right rebound so as the right side is the same as the left side. I want to make sure my shocks are the same so i can rule them out for my handling issues. Thanks
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Old 11-15-2008, 09:27 AM   #10284
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I'm going to risk sounding dumb but how do you bleed shocks and make sure they have the right rebound so as the right side is the same as the left side. I want to make sure my shocks are the same so i can rule them out for my handling issues. Thanks
Ok. Here you go ... and it's not a dumb question.
An important point here is to use the same method on each shock. Different people like to have differing amounts of rebound. But you should have the same rebound on any one car. If you see what I mean.

Once the shocks are clean.
Fill with selected oil to about 4mm from the top of the shock body.
Pump the piston up and down slowly a few times to get air from under the piston. Then re-fill.
Then sit the body in a stand and let it sit for 10 minutes.
Put the bladder in the shock top and put 'a little' amount of oil on the threads.
Push the piston up into the body 1/2 to 2/3 of the way up. I place mine about 3/4 of the way up. Refill shock to about 3mm from the top.
Place the top on the body and 'start to screw on. As soon as you feel the top start on the threads, tilt the shock to 45 degrees, with the bleed hole on the top facing upwards. This will help get rid of the air inside, and turn the body onto the top.
Be careful not to overtighten. This will distort the bladder inside.

If you manage to do each shock the same. You should end up with the same amount of rebound.

I look for about 5 to 10mm rebound. Or at least they should return quite slowly.
The important thing is that all the shocks rebound the same.
Avoid having shocks that rebound imediately or fast. This will give poor handling. Or at least, not as good as it could be!!

There is a knack in assembling shocks and you need to get into a rythem to get them all the same.

If they rebound too fast,
You didn't push the piston up far enough and you have either too much oil or air in the shock. Try again.

If they don't rebound at all or when fully extended, the piston tries to go back into the shock body. You don't have enough oil in the shock or you pushed the piston up too far.

You can have very little rebound if you like........
just endevour to do all the shocks the same!! This is the most important thing !!!

Best of luck.

British Menace

P.S: By the way. If you have the older shocks which do not have a bleed hole in the top. I strongly suggest making them by drilling a hole (1 - 2mm Hole) in the shock top. Quite close to the edge. (So as you can still see the hole when you place the bladder in the top )
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Old 11-15-2008, 02:11 PM   #10285
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Thanks mate i will try that. I am using the LX shocks at the moment and they have the hole in them.
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Old 11-15-2008, 02:49 PM   #10286
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Thanks mate i will try that. I am using the LX shocks at the moment and they have the hole in them.
Your very welcome.

I don't like to let on about this ..... so don't tell anyone ... lol

But I used to make my shocks rebound really quick .... lol



Never mind

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Old 11-15-2008, 06:09 PM   #10287
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Yeah me to i thought that would be good for some reason.

Here are some pics of my newly decorated body thanks to blee and rcmanufactory.com

Unfortunately the paint scheme was already done so that's all i had to work with. I'm going to do a new body soon


By bradg4, shot with Canon PowerShot A430 at 2008-11-15



By bradg4, shot with Canon PowerShot A430 at 2008-11-15


By bradg4, shot with Canon PowerShot A430 at 2008-11-15

Thanks blee and rcmanufactory
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Old 11-15-2008, 08:29 PM   #10288
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Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
Yeah me to i thought that would be good for some reason.

Here are some pics of my newly decorated body thanks to blee and rcmanufactory.com

Unfortunately the paint scheme was already done so that's all i had to work with. I'm going to do a new body soon


By bradg4, shot with Canon PowerShot A430 at 2008-11-15

Thanks blee and rcmanufactory


Very nice car, bro.!

Good luck in race!
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Old 11-18-2008, 02:17 PM   #10289
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Hey guys i was just wondering if anyone has a header for the k-factory missile pipe range that they no longer need. Pm me for details.

Sorry to post that here but i got no response in the WTB forum.
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Old 11-20-2008, 08:07 PM   #10290
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Its a wonder you can see the paint job under all those stickers..
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