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Old 10-25-2008, 05:49 PM   #10186
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Hi All,
Omarko, Freestyles etc. Don't worry. There are lots of set ups for these cars around now. For all kinds of conditions too.

Firstly, and my apologies go to those who already know this:
It all starts with a good build of the car!!
Ensure suspension parts are free to move and do so smoothly and without binding through out the parts FULL (!) movement.
Make sure, on assembly, there is no "extra" slop in parts. The top front A arms are renown for this. Also the axles. Get rid of as much slop as possible with out creating any binding any where.
Ensure when the suspension moves, the shocks start to move at the same time.
No leaks anywhere.....shocks and Diff's need to be sealed properly! I would only fill diff's upto the "spider" shafts ...everytime you fill them. Always build your shocks the same way.....everytime!

Before you start talking and altering set-ups. Decide first....what are you after from the car? What is it you want it to do that it is not doing at that time?
And alter ONE thing at a time.........this is really hard to do ....I know!!

Now. If you want to run the 4mm chassis. The already stiff G4 construction is going to be mae even stiffer! You will need to come down on spring strength!
Actually, you need to alter the spring strength/ to oil ratio.
In other words keep the same oil and just go softer on springs. The stiffer you make a cars chassis the softer you will need the car's suspention to be.
Thats why it's hard to run a stiff chassis on a bumpy, low traction track!

I have specific set ups for different tracks and traction conditions. If you need them, just say what the track conditions are

Get your motor and the excelent clutch we have on the car working well, and you'll have a race winning car on any track surface

British Menace
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:40 PM   #10187
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Thanks british menace, so if i need to put a 1mm shim in front of the lower a arm i should probably go back and rebuild it?
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Old 10-25-2008, 06:52 PM   #10188
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Thanks british menace, so if i need to put a 1mm shim in front of the lower a arm i should probably go back and rebuild it?
You need to find out why freestyles. There must be a reason for it somewhere in there.
The good thing about the car is that you can take off the front whole sub section and dissmantle it and re-build without effecting the rest of the car.

On the subject of wheel base.
I personally believe we need to run 258 or slightly shorter even.
I would, as has been said already. Run the rear at the shortest setting (All the spacers at the rear of the hinge pins) and the front on the middle setting. Making the wheelbase shorter would give the car probably more steering then the rear can handle because of the extra load on the front wheels and ahead of the front axle line.

Once you are comfortable with the car build. move onto a base set up for the track you want to run the car on. Then fine tune the car to have the car drive and behave the way 'you' want it to !
Not how others say the car should handle!

British Menace
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:37 AM   #10189
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Set up for G4+

Front

38S Tires @ 58mm Dia
-1.5 Camber
+0.5 Toe out
Middle setting (2mm) Castor
Shock Position: Upper, 2nd hole from inside, Bottom: Outside
TM 1.4 Spring
Associated 60WT oil using 2X 1.2 or 1.3mm hole pistons
Ride Hight: 4.5mm
Droop: 2mm below ride hight
Diff: 100,000WT or solid axle
Roll Bar: Flat

Rear:

40S Tires @ 60mm Dia
-3 Camber
-2 Toe In
4mm shim under outside of top link, Inside: upper hole.
Lower A arm hinge pin: Inside hole
Diff: 10,000WT (half full)
5mm Ride hight
Droop: 3mm below ride hight
Shock Position: Upper, 3rd Hole from inside. Bottom: Outside
TM 1.4 Spring
Associated 60WT oil in 2X 1.3 or 1.2 Hole pistons.
Roll Bar: 45 Degrees

CLutch (more Personal depending on taste....lol)

Try this for a start:
Orange 1.7mm Spring
0.6mm tension on spring
0.5mm clutch gap
VERY little end play (0.1mm) ...but must have some!!

Gearing

16/21 Pinions
52/46 Spurs

I hope this helps.
You can fine tune the feel of the car from this.

If your track is smooth but low grip. I would go with 35S front and 38S rear tires.
Start fine tuning using tires and Roll bars first.

All the best,

British Menace
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Old 10-26-2008, 08:48 AM   #10190
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Just to let you know.
On smooth tracks, I stuck with this set-up the only difference being I went to 80WT oil all round and cut down the droop setting to 1.5mm below ride hight at the front and 2mm at the rear, and then fine tuned using the roll bars. This set-up helps SOooooo much when you have alot of traction

The diff at the front will make the car easier to drive but if you don't mind the extra stress and wheel work needed, the spool seams faster out of the corners??!

The thing with the + is that it uses the 4mm chassis which makes the car very stiff and rigid. Which is a good thing. But you really must make sure your suspension is free and working well. You will also end up with a softer suspension setting due to the chassis stiffness.

(lol.. I even got down to using 7LB springs on the car when I ran a stiff chassis and in high grip conditions..... maybe a little extreme...lol)

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Old 10-26-2008, 05:35 PM   #10191
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I hear a lot of people say drill the shock piston out from the stock 1mm hole to 1.2mm or even 1.5mm and then use 50-60wt oil in them.

Could i just keep the pistons at 1mm but drop to a lower weight oil eg:30-35wt ??

I have no spare pistons at the moment and i can just see me breaking one trying to drill them out
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Old 10-26-2008, 05:48 PM   #10192
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Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I hear a lot of people say drill the shock piston out from the stock 1mm hole to 1.2mm or even 1.5mm and then use 50-60wt oil in them.

Could i just keep the pistons at 1mm but drop to a lower weight oil eg:30-35wt ??

I have no spare pistons at the moment and i can just see me breaking one trying to drill them out
Yeah. You can do that. I would come down from 60WT to 45 if your going to use the stock pistons.
The reason, or one of the reasons they drill them out is to slow the flow of oil through the holes. By slowing the flow of oil, it keeps the shock and oil cooler. As oil gets warmer, it becomes thinner and hence your dampening becomes inconsistant.
You'd be surprised how much thinner the oil becomes when it gets just a few degrees warmer!

Hope this helps.

British Menace

PS: Also. For the same 10wt oil change, it will make a much bigger difference with the smaller hole sizes too. Just something to bear in mind.
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:15 PM   #10193
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Thumbs up clutch info

ok i almost have the kit built except for the clutch there's no instructions on how to build this style of clutch anyone got a link or directions downloaded
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Old 10-28-2008, 03:25 PM   #10194
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ok i almost have the kit built except for the clutch there's no instructions on how to build this style of clutch anyone got a link or directions downloaded

K factory website has a great step by step guide
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Old 10-28-2008, 11:15 PM   #10195
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I finally finished building my G4s/G4rs/G4+ project and god damn it looks nice. I will try to post pics later.

Very keen to get it out on to the track and start dialling it in. I haven't been this excited since i got my very first G4 a couple of years ago.

I've noticed in other peoples set ups you all run softer foams up front not in the rear. I've always thought you run harder up front and softer in the rear. Can anyone tell me why you all do this?? and how slippery is the rear end with harder tyres on?

Cheers

PS: Stay tuned for pics (if i can figure out how to do it)
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Old 10-29-2008, 12:43 AM   #10196
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[QUOTE=freestyles;4990436]
I've noticed in other peoples set ups you all run softer foams up front not in the rear. I've always thought you run harder up front and softer in the rear. Can anyone tell me why you all do this?? and how slippery is the rear end with harder tyres on?

[QUOTE]

depends on the amount of grip the track has and also on the car's steering i believe.

softer fronts will give you more steering (may result in oversteer and losing rear grip if car setup is not right).
if you find that you're losing rear grip and having too much front grip; then you might want to try a harder front or softer rear.

however, yr car setup could change all these...usually try to tune yr car by tires first then fine tune car setups.
or is it the other way round?

anyway, you've got to try it out on yr track to see how you like yr car to handle.
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Old 10-29-2008, 02:39 AM   #10197
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Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
I finally finished building my G4s/G4rs/G4+ project and god damn it looks nice. I will try to post pics later.

Very keen to get it out on to the track and start dialling it in. I haven't been this excited since i got my very first G4 a couple of years ago.

I've noticed in other peoples set ups you all run softer foams up front not in the rear. I've always thought you run harder up front and softer in the rear. Can anyone tell me why you all do this?? and how slippery is the rear end with harder tyres on?

Cheers

PS: Stay tuned for pics (if i can figure out how to do it)
Amongst other things, one of the easiest ways to get even tyre wear F-R
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Old 10-29-2008, 04:01 AM   #10198
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Amongst other things, one of the easiest ways to get even tyre wear F-R
That makes sense

I just weighed my car (pretty much a G4+) and it came in at 1.8kg on the dot. Is this heavy or light? From the feel of other cars i think it's a bit heavy. I can't remember what my Eagle racing G4 team kit weighed but it was well under weight the last time i raced it. Put body clips in every available hole on my posts, cable tied wheel nuts to the handle etc and only then i just scraped in

Could you guys post what your car weighs so i roughly know where i stand.

Thanks
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Old 10-29-2008, 04:12 AM   #10199
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I have to say i have never ever stripped a gear in my G4's.......YET
guess whats going to happen next race now
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Old 10-29-2008, 05:36 AM   #10200
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I weighed my RS and it came in at 1720 so 1800 is a tad on the heavy side, also there is a weight limit if you are going to run state and national evernts I think its 1700 correct me if I am wrong?

also is there any one running the RS that has issues with the wear out rate of the 2 speed clutch, howfar done have people gone with the screws that expand the shoes, how much of a gap are you getting at the joins on each half?does it not matter how far apart you go as long as you get the right fit into the housing?
cheers

Quote:
Originally Posted by freestyles View Post
That makes sense

I just weighed my car (pretty much a G4+) and it came in at 1.8kg on the dot. Is this heavy or light? From the feel of other cars i think it's a bit heavy. I can't remember what my Eagle racing G4 team kit weighed but it was well under weight the last time i raced it. Put body clips in every available hole on my posts, cable tied wheel nuts to the handle etc and only then i just scraped in

Could you guys post what your car weighs so i roughly know where i stand.

Thanks
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