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Old 10-04-2008, 04:15 AM   #10066
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Originally Posted by jameslow View Post
Thanks for reply.

hmm... if i change to harder spring ( does it mean that it will reduce the impact? ) therefore reduce wheel spin?
It makes sense...

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Old 10-04-2008, 04:22 AM   #10067
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It makes sense...

Asil
but let say a hard spring is used and it enage at 10k rpm

VS

a softer spring but higher tension ( the tension is set to the same as the high spring ) therefore it also enage at 10k rpm...

Then what will be the different?

Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2008, 04:40 AM   #10068
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It may not be possible since you have to tighten softer spring more and you'll see clutch will slip too much.. even quarter turn of spring nut effect clutch slip..


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Old 10-04-2008, 05:45 AM   #10069
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Originally Posted by Nitro-Racer* View Post
hey i race with a bsl 451 steering servo but have no regulator, why is it needed??
Hi regulators are only needed if you are runnng a lipo, Rx lipos run at 7.4 volt and servos are only 6Volt rated so if you are running a nimh or nicad battery then you dont need a regultor whatever the servo model.
cheers
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Old 10-04-2008, 05:55 AM   #10070
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jameslow View Post
Hmm.... a question... i think im having a clutch setting problem... my rear will spin out (not 360 about 90 degree) when i on throttle on a big bend and when corner exit. i try to lossen abit the clutch spring tension n make my car rear softer but problem still not solve.

My question is, should i loosen the clutch spring tension more or should i change to a harder spring? what the different between higher clutch spring tension and using of harder clutch spring?

As for the spin at corner exit (once exit i throttle) is it that reduce the caster angle will improve?

Thanks!
sounds like your car is a bit stiff in the rear, there are a few things you can adjust on the car to get consistant rear traction rememebr one thing at a time not all at once to find the right setup,
try and stiffen up the front a bit first try a bit harder springs and or soften a bit in the rear with a softer spring, check your shock angle on the towers maybe try and lay the rear down one and go from there, also droop makes a big difference try and increase the droop in the rear I think I run 6.5 ride height and a droop of 4mm ( depends on how bumpy the track is), dont forget to adjust your rear arm travel so you chassis does not bottom out. take a look at your tire shore also maybe try a shore softer??
its a start see how you go with these small adjustments and go from there
cheers
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Old 10-04-2008, 04:36 PM   #10071
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why is a 2A regulator that I have not enough ?
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Old 10-04-2008, 07:59 PM   #10072
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why is a 2A regulator that I have not enough ?
lets just say , i stalled 2 sanwa ERG servos and measured the amps it pulled, it was like 1.9 amps each. so to have it on full lock turning into a corner and hard on the brakes, it will trip the reg out, and possibly damage the reg or worse, it could generate a loss of signal to the reciever. you dont want to be on full throttle when that happens. so i have always used one digital steering servo and one std metal geared servo since i had a runaway. thats why its so important to set your end points so neither servo stalls when racing.
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Old 10-04-2008, 09:00 PM   #10073
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holy shit ... thats a lot!

I gotta get a 5A reg ASAP then ...

does not look like its something standard local hobby shops stock ... hmm
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Old 10-04-2008, 09:51 PM   #10074
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Yes a 5 AMP regulator will do fine I ran a 2amp for a while and I nearly lost the car Keavze what mah lipo are you running?
cheers
i'm using the nosram 1500mah lipo.
slightly bigger than the premium power 1300mah that u're using (my frd using too) which doesn't fit perfectly in the stock battery location.

i gotta modify my radio plate slightly to get my lipo to fit.
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Old 10-04-2008, 09:59 PM   #10075
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Originally Posted by asil View Post
It may not be possible since you have to tighten softer spring more and you'll see clutch will slip too much.. even quarter turn of spring nut effect clutch slip..


Asil
agreed...

jameslow:
better to use a harder spring than tightening a softer spring...harder spring will give u more consistant operation than a tightened softer spring.
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:47 AM   #10076
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I would think teh problem could one of 4 things ie:
rear shock angle.
rear roll centre.
too soft rear sway bar.
too thick rear diff oil.
or combination of above.
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Old 10-05-2008, 07:56 AM   #10077
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Originally Posted by razzor View Post
I would think teh problem could one of 4 things ie:
rear shock angle.
rear roll centre.
too soft rear sway bar.
too thick rear diff oil.
or combination of above.
mostly likely too soft rear sway bar.
is 20k oil rear diff considered too thick?
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Old 10-05-2008, 12:47 PM   #10078
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The thicker diff oil in the rear will act like a solid axle, try 3000wt or 5000wt.
Also try a stiffer roll bar setting and then lower the rear roll centre by taking out a spacer or two on the rear outer upper linkage.
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Old 10-06-2008, 05:58 AM   #10079
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I have a bit of an issue with the new rear bulkhead. When i put the rear lower hinge pins in the outer hole the dogbones aren't long enough, even the front cvd's in the longest setting are still to short. I'm using the flying wing arm (for the roll bar) but with the old G4s hubs and links and with the G4s rear brace on a G4+ chassis.

Can anyone recomend a longer dogbone or cv or am i doing something totally left field
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Old 10-06-2008, 06:53 AM   #10080
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about the tm dogbones its the most frustrating thing!! i used to use them but got tired of searching in my track for those dogbones. they are just too short!! i use hobao's gpx4 dogbones(yes hobao!! my lhs support hobao part..), they are long enough
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