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Old 07-19-2008, 02:24 PM   #9511
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thanks for the reply ...

so the G4+ chassis is different? I thought it is 4mm and secretly hoped that it can be used with the G4RS

EDIT: also, what starter box would you guys recommend for the G4 series ? I a using 1/10 Thunder tiger box and while its OKish, I find its lacking power in many cases (especially now that I got a Nova engine which while new is nearly impossible start with this box).
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Old 07-19-2008, 03:44 PM   #9512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charlesd View Post
Solara,
What are you using on the end of the brake arm?
The lever is the stock G4RS one. Instead of using the ball stud and ball cup, I use a long set screw, then use any ball type open ball cup just like the one in the pictures. Then I use the original G4RS brake linkage, turn 90, slide inside the ball cup area and lock it with a collar (I use 2)....then the engine, I just any THUMB DIAL that you can buy from any local hobby shop. In my case, I use a Serpent VETEQ linkage cause they are on sale for $0.85 now...

But here is Socko version, very similar to my concept but I think it is a better solution then mine. Cause I think my ball cup, with some heavier braking, the ball end might have a chance to get over tweaked....here is socko version.

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Old 07-19-2008, 03:48 PM   #9513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omarko View Post
thanks for the reply ...

so the G4+ chassis is different? I thought it is 4mm and secretly hoped that it can be used with the G4RS

EDIT: also, what starter box would you guys recommend for the G4 series ? I a using 1/10 Thunder tiger box and while its OKish, I find its lacking power in many cases (especially now that I got a Nova engine which while new is nearly impossible start with this box).
It might not be your box....if your Nova Rossi is new, you have to use a heat gun to preheat your engine before starting it. Nowaday, alot of engine are still very tight after broken in. No matter how strong is your starter box motor, it won't flip over....

I am using my AE NTC3 starter box like 4 years ago....used that for at least 4 different TC, 2 differnet 235mm chassis and sometime use it for my 1/8th...and even the cheapest starter box will do the job.
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Old 07-19-2008, 04:13 PM   #9514
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It might not be your box....if your Nova Rossi is new, you have to use a heat gun to preheat your engine before starting it. Nowaday, alot of engine are still very tight after broken in. No matter how strong is your starter box motor, it won't flip over....

I am using my AE NTC3 starter box like 4 years ago....used that for at least 4 different TC, 2 differnet 235mm chassis and sometime use it for my 1/8th...and even the cheapest starter box will do the job.
LOL I still use my AE starter box too, can't justify buying another, as this box has a 770 motor and with a gel 12v batt.....it starts any, and every motor i've run on it. Can't complain, won't be getting another box....
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Old 07-19-2008, 04:18 PM   #9515
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so the brake arm pictured here is that serpent??? I am gonna change to this setup for sure!
thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solara View Post
The lever is the stock G4RS one. Instead of using the ball stud and ball cup, I use a long set screw, then use any ball type open ball cup just like the one in the pictures. Then I use the original G4RS brake linkage, turn 90, slide inside the ball cup area and lock it with a collar (I use 2)....then the engine, I just any THUMB DIAL that you can buy from any local hobby shop. In my case, I use a Serpent VETEQ linkage cause they are on sale for $0.85 now...

But here is Socko version, very similar to my concept but I think it is a better solution then mine. Cause I think my ball cup, with some heavier braking, the ball end might have a chance to get over tweaked....here is socko version.

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Old 07-19-2008, 04:38 PM   #9516
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so the brake arm pictured here is that serpent??? I am gonna change to this setup for sure!
thanks
No....Socko version is using the MUGEN MTX4 one...checkout his thread couple post above.
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Old 07-19-2008, 06:15 PM   #9517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omarko View Post
thanks for the reply ...

so the G4+ chassis is different? I thought it is 4mm and secretly hoped that it can be used with the G4RS

EDIT: also, what starter box would you guys recommend for the G4 series ? I a using 1/10 Thunder tiger box and while its OKish, I find its lacking power in many cases (especially now that I got a Nova engine which while new is nearly impossible start with this box).
the G4+ is a G4S only with all the upgrades . you need to use the old G4S back plate and rear lower hingepins. the RS is shorter on teh rear pins ad this is why there is a new back plate.
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Old 07-19-2008, 08:57 PM   #9518
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One brake mod coming up.
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Old 07-20-2008, 02:33 PM   #9519
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I was thinking about picking up the Team Magic G4 Le Mans RTR car and putting a touring car body on it. Any one have any experience with this car?

What hopups or aftermarket parts would I want to get?

Any advice would be much appreciated.

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Old 07-21-2008, 09:10 AM   #9520
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I havent had any hassles with the std G4s brake linkage although i have changed the ally piston that presses against the brake pads to a thicker one.
This made the brake movement less and it doesnt have that dead spot before the cam turns and pushes the piston.
I used a flanged ball for this and it sits perfectly in the hole just had top sand the ball side to shorten its height about a mm.
similar to the ones in the link below.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2741
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Old 07-21-2008, 09:55 AM   #9521
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Does anyone here have problems with 2nd spur gear stripping? I had my first race with the new car yesterday, and after a 5 minutes main, to my horror, I discovered that my 2nd spur teeth were completely crushed .

What baffles me is that I didn't have the gear mesh overly loose or tight. I have absolutely NO idea what would cause this.


My brakes stopped working in the middle of the race also, but I think that was just an error on my part. The gear, however... no clue. I just ordered a load of spurs from wolfhobbies for the next race but still need to find out why I stripped it in the first place.
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Old 07-21-2008, 04:02 PM   #9522
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeAKF11 View Post
Does anyone here have problems with 2nd spur gear stripping? I had my first race with the new car yesterday, and after a 5 minutes main, to my horror, I discovered that my 2nd spur teeth were completely crushed .

What baffles me is that I didn't have the gear mesh overly loose or tight. I have absolutely NO idea what would cause this.


My brakes stopped working in the middle of the race also, but I think that was just an error on my part. The gear, however... no clue. I just ordered a load of spurs from wolfhobbies for the next race but still need to find out why I stripped it in the first place.

We had this problem, but I'm happy to report it seems to be solved.

Check out the following...

#1 - make sure you have the correct spur gears ( you must use duro gears -easy to identify , they have 3 x 4mm holes )

#2 - Make sure your clutch is not slipping - it heats up the clutch bell and then melts the gear ( very common )

#3 - adjust the gap between the 2nd gear shoes and the housing as small as you can without it dragging, makes for a smoother shift

hope this helps!
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Old 07-21-2008, 07:49 PM   #9523
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor View Post
I havent had any hassles with the std G4s brake linkage although i have changed the ally piston that presses against the brake pads to a thicker one.
This made the brake movement less and it doesnt have that dead spot before the cam turns and pushes the piston.
I used a flanged ball for this and it sits perfectly in the hole just had top sand the ball side to shorten its height about a mm.
similar to the ones in the link below.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...oducts_id/2741
just want to ask: what's the size of the stock brake piston?
also what's the size that you used? i've trying to find one that fits...
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Old 07-21-2008, 08:08 PM   #9524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PrimeAKF11 View Post
Does anyone here have problems with 2nd spur gear stripping? I had my first race with the new car yesterday, and after a 5 minutes main, to my horror, I discovered that my 2nd spur teeth were completely crushed .

What baffles me is that I didn't have the gear mesh overly loose or tight. I have absolutely NO idea what would cause this.


My brakes stopped working in the middle of the race also, but I think that was just an error on my part. The gear, however... no clue. I just ordered a load of spurs from wolfhobbies for the next race but still need to find out why I stripped it in the first place.
Yup....me too, had my first ever 2nd gear spur gear stripped on the 1st lap of a 30 minutes main....ran the whole 30 minutes with 1st gear only. That was some horrible 30 minutes (and long 30 minutes) to go thru...

Will definitely try what SP Racer mentioned...hope that will solved the problem.
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Old 07-21-2008, 11:27 PM   #9525
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Originally Posted by Sp Racer View Post
#2 - Make sure your clutch is not slipping - it heats up the clutch bell and then melts the gear ( very common )
how to tell whether yr clutch is slipping?

i've still managed not to strip any gears; so i assume my clutch is ok then.
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