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Old 06-13-2008, 06:03 PM   #9376
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Originally Posted by ALG View Post
patto, there is no short cut for experience!!!
and you MUSt know that a correct clucht setting is the very important to have your car fast.

What are the diff you found using the UFO and UFO2?

have fun
ALG
i didnt see much difference at all. the only major issue was the clutch shoe. the UFO 2 you can get a bit more life out of it. the step at the bottom of the shoe prevents the bell from touching the shoe retainer when the clutch shoe wears.
what i have done though on all my clutches, is remove some material from the flyout weights. i do this in the inner part of the flyouts. the inner spring retainer sits all too close to the flyouts, and this has helped even wear on the shoe. i think at times that the flyouts dont return all the way because the inner retainer touches them slightly, i have seen even wear on my shoes from then on.
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Old 06-14-2008, 02:22 AM   #9377
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hey guys, can I use this - LINK CLICK HERE part with my G4RS ?

Its steering system from Kfactory that seems to be much better than the G4RS one ...

I already bought it along with the alu arms (K1480 and K1480-2) but cant work out how to put it in ... I assume its not compatible ...

also, I bough the K1499 chassis that I was going to use with the G4RS ... its soooooo cool ... LINK .... BUT ... there is no spot for rear belt tensioner ... WTF ??? anyone used one with G4RS ??? please help ... costed me $100 US !!!!

cheers
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Old 06-14-2008, 04:53 AM   #9378
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Originally Posted by Omarko View Post
hey guys, can I use this - LINK CLICK HERE part with my G4RS ?

Its steering system from Kfactory that seems to be much better than the G4RS one ...

I already bought it along with the alu arms (K1480 and K1480-2) but cant work out how to put it in ... I assume its not compatible ...

also, I bough the K1499 chassis that I was going to use with the G4RS ... its soooooo cool ... LINK .... BUT ... there is no spot for rear belt tensioner ... WTF ??? anyone used one with G4RS ??? please help ... costed me $100 US !!!!

cheers
the steering system is old, its from the early G4 mongoose. once the G4S came out , the swing rack steering was a thing of the past. and the chassis is also meant for the early G4. there are so many variations of the car, if your not sure what is going to fit, do some research first or ask some questions.
no other chassis will fit the new design rear end of the RS.
sorry to say , but if you dont want to get rid of it, then id suggest to get the old rear bulkheads and arms for the car and then you can use this chassis. you will also need rear lower hinge pins, and the top mount belt tensioner from the EVO or Mongoose. good luck.
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Old 06-14-2008, 10:56 AM   #9379
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Hey Menace,

my car is heading my way i know you are still running the earlier model but im sure a base line setup would be similar

i plan on running the os 12 or os speed 12 depending on the low profile head thats offered i wanna slam the cg even lower
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Old 06-14-2008, 12:23 PM   #9380
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Originally Posted by DENNIS STORTI View Post
Hey Menace,

my car is heading my way i know you are still running the earlier model but im sure a base line setup would be similar

i plan on running the os 12 or os speed 12 depending on the low profile head thats offered i wanna slam the cg even lower
Hello Dennis,

You should have the car built ready for the Byron's shouldn't you?
Anyway. Yes. Technically, my car is the 'S' version. As I still run the 'S' chassis. Although I have the RS rear arms and rear sway bar. Other thing's like the UFO 2 Clutch I'm not going to upgrade to as it's the same as the '1' but with a longer life clutch plate. I may get these parts when I run out of spare plates. I'm also down to my last rear tower so I'm looking at upgrading to the RS rear baulkhead bracket and tower. That way I'll have the extra top link adjustments offered by the RS version.

On set ups. One of the things about this car is the variety of set ups used, with success too.
Depends on how you like to drive a car really. If you like to run with a one way up front, a spool or a diff'. All these have their base set-ups really.
Also depends on how you like the rear to "act" when your driving. Some like it almost loose to get the extra rotation, more aggressive driving. And to take this to the extreme, TM still offers the rear spool and front dedicated lightweight one way axles!!

A stock set up with spool or diff' upfront, try: ..........

Front
Toe: +0.5 Deg'
Castor: Middle
Camber: -1.5 Deg'
Ride Hight: 5mm
Tire: 38S at 59mm Dia'
Spring: 1.5mm
Oil: 50WT in 2 X 1.2mm Hole pistons
(Diff: 100,000WT)
Shock Position: 1 Hole up from fully laid down. Outside hole bottom.
Track width: 197mm
Droop: 2mm below ride hight.


Rear
Toe: -2.5 Deg'
Camber: -3 deg'
Ride Hight: 5.5mm
Tire: 40S at 61mm Dia'
Spring: 1.4mm (or 1.5)
Oil: 60WT in 2 X 1.2mm Hole pistons
Diff: 10,000WT (Maybe 20,000WT if you like a little more on power steering)
Shock position: Sam as front.
Track: 200mm
Droop: 3mm below ride hight (smooth track)
Rear Top link: 3mm spacing/ Top hole

Wheel Base: Short Rear, Middle setting front.

CLutch:
Aggressive:

Mugan super Hard Spring.
Red clutch shoe
Black or red 'Three flyweights shoes'
No weights
0.5mm Clutch Gap
0.3 to 0.35 tension on spring. (Starts to slip at around 0.4mm)
0.1mm end play

Not so aggressive
TM Orange 1.7mm spring
Red clutch shoe.
Black 'Three flyweights shoes)
1 weight in each
0.4 to 0.5mm clutch gap
0.6 tension on spring
0.1mm end play

Drive
16/21 Pinions
52/46 spur

Hope that helps.

Regards,
British Menace
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Old 06-14-2008, 10:21 PM   #9381
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Roll bars are put where you feel them best but usually end up,

Front: Flat
Rear: 45 Deg'



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Old 06-15-2008, 12:29 AM   #9382
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
Roll bars are put where you feel them best but usually end up,

Front: Flat
Rear: 45 Deg'



British Menace
Hi Tony, with the new style rear bar, dont be afriad to run it as hard as it can go. i have had a unsettled rear end before (no pun intended )
and i thaught id try it hard as it can go, it really did settle the rear after that.
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Old 06-15-2008, 06:26 AM   #9383
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Default help on clutch settings..

G4 Gurus.. i badly need some tip or advice with regards to UF0 2 clutch settings.

Ok.. here is the deal..

I have a couple of kits.. and sad to say.. every now and then.. it will go WOT (bat, receiver issues, glitch.. and other weird stuff). It will take.. like 10-20 seconds for the martial to turn it off


- (accident 1) Ok, when i was testing the my G4, i accidentally start it with the receiver off (excited..).. it went.. WOT for 7 seconds.. conrod is shattered. its ok.. since i was under the impression that the conroad on that engine is had been into a grueling race.

- (accident 2) Car goes wild again, after getting hit. WOT for under 7 seconds.. conrod broken again.. thank god.. the piston is still ok..

Accident 2 is with a brand new CONROD.

I know that accident 1 and 2 could have been avoided. That said.. now i am afraid to let the trigger rip when im driving my G4. Im afraid that it would smash my conrod.. with accident 1 and 2.. im a bit paranoid.

Above items said, can someone give me the right shimming for the UF0-2 clutch system?

I just followed the instructions on the g4+ manual.

Thank you guys in advance!
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Old 06-15-2008, 08:06 AM   #9384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabasolo View Post
G4 Gurus.. i badly need some tip or advice with regards to UF0 2 clutch settings.

Ok.. here is the deal..

I have a couple of kits.. and sad to say.. every now and then.. it will go WOT (bat, receiver issues, glitch.. and other weird stuff). It will take.. like 10-20 seconds for the martial to turn it off


- (accident 1) Ok, when i was testing the my G4, i accidentally start it with the receiver off (excited..).. it went.. WOT for 7 seconds.. conrod is shattered. its ok.. since i was under the impression that the conroad on that engine is had been into a grueling race.

- (accident 2) Car goes wild again, after getting hit. WOT for under 7 seconds.. conrod broken again.. thank god.. the piston is still ok..

Accident 2 is with a brand new CONROD.

I know that accident 1 and 2 could have been avoided. That said.. now i am afraid to let the trigger rip when im driving my G4. Im afraid that it would smash my conrod.. with accident 1 and 2.. im a bit paranoid.

Above items said, can someone give me the right shimming for the UF0-2 clutch system?

I just followed the instructions on the g4+ manual.

Thank you guys in advance!
I'm a little confused here........
Why do you think you need advice on clutch setting's?

What's wrong with your clutch?

Concerning your "accident's"....
Always remember..........
Transmitter on First
Transmitter off last
Ensure both your car batteries and your transmitter batteries have a good charge before using. If your using crystals. Make sure others around you are not on the same frequencey as you before turning on your transmitter.

Did you manage to break in your motor yet?

Let us know what it is you unsure about with your clutch and we'll be pleased to help you out.

Regards,

British Menace
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Old 06-15-2008, 08:13 AM   #9385
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr View Post
Hi Tony, with the new style rear bar, dont be afriad to run it as hard as it can go. i have had a unsettled rear end before (no pun intended )
and i thaught id try it hard as it can go, it really did settle the rear after that.
Hi Patto.

I have had the rear bar on full 'stiff' and I know what you mean. It does settle down the rear end...lol
But I'm still a driver who likes a rock solid rear, without any feeling of looseness, then I try to get as much steering as poss'. But my car does still end up a little pushy at the end....lol. Maybe thats why I'm not as fast as I could be..........
Must be something??!

Thanks for the advice though Paul. I'll try again with that stiff setting.

Regards,

British Menace
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Old 06-15-2008, 05:29 PM   #9386
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Default KOREA National Race

I finished 3rd in Korea National Race.

Final Race was 1 hour Race.. and I Choose "No Tire Change Strategy"
(Front 38 / Rear 40)

I Suffered From Left Hand cramp. (I Tried 2 times Pit-In to remove hand cramp)

1 hour Race was Too Difficult...
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Old 06-15-2008, 07:46 PM   #9387
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Congratulations on the third place Gansei. A great job done.

One hour races are tough. There are more and more one hour races appearing here in the States too. Very hard and tuff on the cars too.

Well done Gansei !!

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Old 06-15-2008, 10:51 PM   #9388
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
I'm a little confused here........
Why do you think you need advice on clutch setting's?

What's wrong with your clutch?

Concerning your "accident's"....
Always remember..........
Transmitter on First
Transmitter off last
Ensure both your car batteries and your transmitter batteries have a good charge before using. If your using crystals. Make sure others around you are not on the same frequencey as you before turning on your transmitter.

Did you manage to break in your motor yet?

Let us know what it is you unsure about with your clutch and we'll be pleased to help you out.

Regards,

British Menace


Hi Sir... thank you for the reminders..

my question is basically.. can you break an engine (connecting rod to be specific) with wrong clutch settings (shims and spacing/gap)?, i know for a fact that you can break thrust bearing if your shims and spacing is incorrect (too wild/extreme). i just want to know if its possible to break a connecting rod (engine) with wrong shimming/spacing on UFO2 ... (just want to validate my facts.. )

---------

Setup Related Issues:

----My Setup:

Front:
- Diff: One Way
- Toe: + .5
- Springs: Light Blue
- Tire: 59
- Camber: - 2.5
- Caster: MAX upright (for turning)
- Shock Position: fully laid down
- Track Width: 198mm


Rear:
- Diff Oil: 10wt
- Toe: - 2.5
- Springs: Blue
- Tire: 60
-- Track have too much right turn
- Camber Right: 5
- Camber Left: 4
- Shock Position: fully laid down
- Track Width: 200mm


Wheelbase: 260MM

The track is a bit tight.. (lots of turns.. but.. have some good stretches). Just wondering.. if you guys think i need to adjust my wheelbase (to shorter.. say.. 258 or even 257) and my rear diff oil to 20wt or even 30wt. As it have some weird (uncontrollable feeling) coming out a corner (Steering is somewhat loss on power coming out of the corners).


tnx guys!

Last edited by jabasolo; 06-15-2008 at 11:02 PM.
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:07 AM   #9389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jabasolo View Post
Hi Sir... thank you for the reminders..

my question is basically.. can you break an engine (connecting rod to be specific) with wrong clutch settings (shims and spacing/gap)?, i know for a fact that you can break thrust bearing if your shims and spacing is incorrect (too wild/extreme). i just want to know if its possible to break a connecting rod (engine) with wrong shimming/spacing on UFO2 ... (just want to validate my facts.. )

---------

Setup Related Issues:

----My Setup:

Front:
- Diff: One Way
- Toe: + .5
- Springs: Light Blue
- Tire: 59
- Camber: - 2.5
- Caster: MAX upright (for turning)
- Shock Position: fully laid down
- Track Width: 198mm


Rear:
- Diff Oil: 10wt
- Toe: - 2.5
- Springs: Blue
- Tire: 60
-- Track have too much right turn
- Camber Right: 5
- Camber Left: 4
- Shock Position: fully laid down
- Track Width: 200mm


Wheelbase: 260MM

The track is a bit tight.. (lots of turns.. but.. have some good stretches). Just wondering.. if you guys think i need to adjust my wheelbase (to shorter.. say.. 258 or even 257) and my rear diff oil to 20wt or even 30wt. As it have some weird (uncontrollable feeling) coming out a corner (Steering is somewhat loss on power coming out of the corners).


tnx guys!
are you running the G4RS ? then try roll centers at the front and rear. and sway bars. try front lower inner roll center on the Speedshot front, flat swaybar, On the rear, try inner middle top arm and 3mm shim on the hub, and a hard rear swaybar.
with the wheelbase, i always run the rear as short as it can go. gets the car to rotate better.
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Old 06-16-2008, 04:13 AM   #9390
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
I finished 3rd in Korea National Race.

Final Race was 1 hour Race.. and I Choose "No Tire Change Strategy"
(Front 38 / Rear 40)

I Suffered From Left Hand cramp. (I Tried 2 times Pit-In to remove hand cramp)

1 hour Race was Too Difficult...
well done Gansei, i know the feeling , i ran 1/8th at the states here as well. one 30 min final, 30 min marshall, then 30 min final again. i was stuffed. but its all good fun, thats why we do it
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