Speyederjedi

iTrader: (1)

Some of you may be having an issue with clutch and spur gear alignment as have I. I found that the problem is in my engine alignment which is being caused by the 2 lower backplate screws of my engine. I am running the Picco EVO III Tuned version and the 2 lower backplate screws are preventing the engine from bing able to back up far enough for my 2nd gear pinion and sur to line up. This has caused improper engagemtn of my clutch as well as off-center clutch wear due to the clutch bell bottoming out on the 2nd gear spur.

I have since trimmed out 2 notches on the belt side cross brace so that the backplate screws have room to fall in place and I can now move the engine for proper alignment of the clutch and spurs. This should prevent the bell from bottoming out on the spurs and tilting to one side whcich was causing the out of center clutch shoe wear. hope this is of value to some of you.

G4RS

Dan/Ultraline

iTrader: (1)

Congratulations To Team Magic for winning the first round of the Italian 1/10th 200mm National Championships running a G4RS

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GBagRacing

iTrader: (1)

Anyone who has upgraded from the Stock transmission to the ED Transmission, what was the major improvement you have noticed. Ie: more snap on takeoff ?, Better acceleration when kicking 2nd gear ? Longer runtime ?

schurcr

iTrader: (6)

I have a G4s with an ED tranny upgrade and the aluminum K-Factory mid shaft pully mount. I need to take the front center belt pully off to replace the bearings. I can't get it off. Anyone else have this problem? I can't find any way to lock the shaft to get the pully off.

My car also has the K-Factory Speed Shot front end and I'd like to upgrade to the flying arm suspension. Does anyone know what the part numbers are for the bulkheads and hing pins and will the speed shot front end bulkheads work?

daniz24

so when you driving xray???

epsilon

Hi,

Does anyone knows what is the size of the thrust bearing for the clutch? thanks.

qcrc

iTrader: (11)

5x 10x 4 for the thrust bearing. Same as on the mugen.

Stroker Ace

iTrader: (5)

RTB -

If you have some old or broken belts you might be able to loosen it by using the belts like strap wrenches or chain whips. Just wrap one belt around the inside pulley, hold it with some pliers and wrap the other belt around the outer pulley and twist it with another pair of pliers. If this doesn't make any sense, go ahead and call me.

Mark

qcrc

iTrader: (11)

I had the same problem with my gear. I applied some anti-seize paint to the shaft and it helped unscrew easier the next time.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

you can also use bent circlip pliers, put some fuel tube in the ends so it doesnt mark the inside pulley. this will hold the inside pulley, then use a wheel nut tool to undo the 27t pulley. when putting it back together, dont be using loctite. it gets tight enough as is.

epsilon

Hi,

thank but i dont understand what is 5x 10x...care to explain? sorry i am newbie...

thanks.

British Menace

If I may...........

It means 5mm Internal diameter (of hole)
10mm Outside diameter
When assembled, the bearing is 4mm thick. It's the same size as is ran on the Mugan MTX-4 clutch.

I hope this clarifies for you.

Regards,

British Menace

Regards

epsilon

thanks.....but if i were to use a normal sealed bearing ....what is the disadvantage?

British Menace

The "Thrust Bearing" is a different animal then the "normal" sealed ball bearing as used in hub carriers at the end of drive shafts. These ball bearings are used to support a revolving part within a non moving part...only!

The use of a thrust bearing is to accept lateral movement and pressure, such as is seen by the end bell movement of the clutch while allowing the turning parts (end bell and engine crankshaft) to turn independantly and to not intefere with either's speed of rotation.

You can not use a normal ball bearing in place of a thrust bearing as these bearings will not stand up to the pressure, or 'Thrust' from our Centax style clutches.

Regards,
British Menace

keavze

to add:
the actual thrust bearing consists of 3 pieces:
except the 'ball bearing' that's sandwiched in between, the 2 outer pieces might looked the same but there's a slight size diff for some other brands...

the piece nearest to engine: ID5mm, OD10mm
the piece nearest to the end: ID4.8mm, OD10mm



for G4 and MTX4, they're same size; for V1RRR, etc...they're different.