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Old 03-02-2008, 11:12 PM   #9091
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Raceday also has the Blitz Altis 2.3. I just got me two but haven't painted them yet. First impression: the body is very rigid and strong in areas that need to be.
hey Don , hows things, had a chance to race this year yet ? i know its still cold over there. i recomend getting the new back support that the rear shock tower bolts to for your G4S. you running the speed shot also ?
if you are, let me know, ill get something to you to try out.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:47 PM   #9092
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I charge patto $5 but if he brings me some port or wine the night before I forget to charge him anything.

Bye

Oh sorry Love Rowen
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:45 AM   #9093
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Cheers Patto. Looks like I'll be modding the standard rear arms as well. It may even pay to just leave the G4S rear end as it is, and dremel out the rear bulkheads to accept the new blade type anti-roll bar.
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Old 03-03-2008, 01:53 AM   #9094
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Cheers Patto. Looks like I'll be modding the standard rear arms as well. It may even pay to just leave the G4S rear end as it is, and dremel out the rear bulkheads to accept the new blade type anti-roll bar.
if your using the G4S, there is no reason to change. just get the speedshot on the car and the RS rear bracket that the shock tower mounts on and the new rear top arms and rear flash pit hubs. the RS doesnt have the ability to use the 2 lower hinge pin locations on the bulkheads. i modified the G4+ back plate to fit the RS and use the outer hingepin hole to be able to use the G4S rear arms. now i just have to get the swaybar attached to the arms
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Old 03-03-2008, 02:38 AM   #9095
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You wont go wrong with the Blitz bodies, they are great.
I am currently running the Altis 2.0 and it handles great but still have a soft spot for the Mazda 3.
Altis 2.3 looks good but havent tried it yet, waiting to get my new shipment in.
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Old 03-03-2008, 09:01 AM   #9096
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hey Don , hows things, had a chance to race this year yet ? i know its still cold over there. i recomend getting the new back support that the rear shock tower bolts to for your G4S. you running the speed shot also ?
if you are, let me know, ill get something to you to try out.
Hey Paul,

I've only been out once for a club race this year (actually I was there to practice and didn't know there was a race but I joined anyway and ended up 1st). Still using the good ole G4s, I don't have the new back support or anything new for that matter. Racing season is heating up and I'll just have to see where the car stands before I plunk a good chunk of change for the RS. I'm willing to try anything you send over here.

PS thanks for all the info you've given to the G4 crew.

Don
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:07 PM   #9097
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At the track last night it was suggested one way to toughen up the flying wing arms is to boil them in water for 10 minutes. Has anyone tried this before?
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Old 03-04-2008, 03:15 PM   #9098
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At the track last night it was suggested one way to toughen up the flying wing arms is to boil them in water for 10 minutes. Has anyone tried this before?
no havent tried it, havent heard of doing this before either.
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Old 03-04-2008, 04:59 PM   #9099
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At the track last night it was suggested one way to toughen up the flying wing arms is to boil them in water for 10 minutes. Has anyone tried this before?
hey Dave did you fit the quick flash gear to your g4s how did it go?
cheers
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Old 03-04-2008, 11:09 PM   #9100
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Putting teh plastic parts in boiling water makes them a bit more pliable so they take shock much better.
Common to do in wing mounts on off road buggies.
usually if plastics will just snap but when boiled they absorb impact and return back to shap but it also depends on accident.
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Old 03-05-2008, 03:24 AM   #9101
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I'll give it a go then and let you guys know the result. We're in the process of converting our track from RoadRail to a permanent track with timber dividers, so the chance of broken arms will increase if I can't keep it off the boards.

Mike - put the new rear hus on the other night but have onle managed a few practice runs. Spent some time adjusting the clutch with the red shoe - not too sure if I'm going to get it right for our track. It either kicks in too hard and makes the car loose on power, or if I back of the tension on the spring it slips too much. Will have to try playing around with the weights and the gap to get it right. Otherwise, the car is coming along nicely.
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Old 03-05-2008, 05:30 AM   #9102
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Try a softer clutch spring if the one you have at the moment is too vicious.
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Old 03-05-2008, 07:29 AM   #9103
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Default rear arm up/down travel friction

heys guys if I do go rs quick flash setup do i need to change bulkheads again, as I already changed bulkheads to fit the new sway bar setup, what are the parts I need to do the rs change
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Old 03-05-2008, 07:31 AM   #9104
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I'll give it a go then and let you guys know the result. We're in the process of converting our track from RoadRail to a permanent track with timber dividers, so the chance of broken arms will increase if I can't keep it off the boards.

Mike - put the new rear hus on the other night but have onle managed a few practice runs. Spent some time adjusting the clutch with the red shoe - not too sure if I'm going to get it right for our track. It either kicks in too hard and makes the car loose on power, or if I back of the tension on the spring it slips too much. Will have to try playing around with the weights and the gap to get it right. Otherwise, the car is coming along nicely.
at the moment I am using the red spring and that works fine
cheers
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Old 03-05-2008, 01:12 PM   #9105
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Originally Posted by Teehomo View Post
I'll give it a go then and let you guys know the result. We're in the process of converting our track from RoadRail to a permanent track with timber dividers, so the chance of broken arms will increase if I can't keep it off the boards.

Mike - put the new rear hus on the other night but have onle managed a few practice runs. Spent some time adjusting the clutch with the red shoe - not too sure if I'm going to get it right for our track. It either kicks in too hard and makes the car loose on power, or if I back of the tension on the spring it slips too much. Will have to try playing around with the weights and the gap to get it right. Otherwise, the car is coming along nicely.

What color spring are you using?

I've found that about 1mm pre load seems to be the maximum spring tension you can use before it starts becoming "undesirable"

Try taking out 1 weight at a time until it engages how you like it.

Shoot me a PM and I'll send you the clutch setup we are using at the moment.

Razzor - softer clutch spring sometimes makes the engagement harder - the harder spring makes the transition from slip to grip longer
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