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Old 03-02-2008, 04:41 AM   #9076
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I am changing over to spool on the rs tonight also I meant to ask what tyre spread are you running I think I have mine trued at 65r 63f?will drop you a message late sunday.weather is staring to look good but then again cairns weather is very unpredictable
cheers
so did i do the right dance for today ? hope you got a chance to run the RS.
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Old 03-02-2008, 03:44 PM   #9077
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How serious is the durability problem with the flying wing arms? We are in the middle of converting our track to a permanent one with 2x4's as the outer boundaries - if the arms are not as tough as they are at the moment it could be a frsutrating race day.
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Old 03-02-2008, 04:35 PM   #9078
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so did i do the right dance for today ? hope you got a chance to run the RS.
mate the rain dance you did must of been the wrong one as we have had non stop rain with flooding and gale force winds with no sign of let up.and a low with the potential of becoming a cyclone just off shore??so no testing.

I went through the setup you gave me and found that when adjusting droop the right side does not travel down completly onto the droop setscrew there is a gap between the screw and chassis where as the other side is smooth you lift up the arm and let it go a it has full travel right down and stops when the setscrew hits the chassis,any suggestions on how to get the other side to do the same?
cheers
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Old 03-02-2008, 05:01 PM   #9079
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mate the rain dance you did must of been the wrong one as we have had non stop rain with flooding and gale force winds with no sign of let up.and a low with the potential of becoming a cyclone just off shore??so no testing.

I went through the setup you gave me and found that when adjusting droop the right side does not travel down completly onto the droop setscrew there is a gap between the screw and chassis where as the other side is smooth you lift up the arm and let it go a it has full travel right down and stops when the setscrew hits the chassis,any suggestions on how to get the other side to do the same?
cheers
front or rear is doing this ?
if front, check the cam adjustment on the front swaybar, loosen the screw and move the eccentric see if the arm comes down onto the droop screw.
if its on the rear, check your shock lengths are the same. there is no tweak adjustment for the rear, but make sure your swaybar at the rear isnt doing this. just undo the bars at the top, slide them out. if still it is doing it. remove the shocks, and see if still does this.
i must have done the wrong dance. we had no rain here, as usual
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:02 PM   #9080
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Altis 2.3 Body....


anywhere now where to get one of these in the states?


also what do you guys have your rear set screw set to?

I went off my G4S specs and at 4mm they seem to be sticking out a whole lot.
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:17 PM   #9081
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Altis 2.3 Body....


anywhere now where to get one of these in the states?


also what do you guys have your rear set screw set to?

I went off my G4S specs and at 4mm they seem to be sticking out a whole lot.
racedays has the Atlis 2.0

what set screw are you talking about ? more info or a better description is needed when your asking for help. its impossible to answer questions one cant understand. also a please and thankyou is good now and again.
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Old 03-02-2008, 06:23 PM   #9082
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How serious is the durability problem with the flying wing arms? We are in the middle of converting our track to a permanent one with 2x4's as the outer boundaries - if the arms are not as tough as they are at the moment it could be a frsutrating race day.
well its not good for tracks where there are pipes or boards all around. i find a purpose built track (hence grass runoff areas) its not so bad. once a wall or something is hit, say goodbye to shock balls on the arms or they break.
i had quite a few impacts a couple of weekends ago. seems mostly from the front. i used Std G4S arms at the front, and flying arms on the rear. no front arms were replaced, and i have just got the car ready for next meet, but went through a set of rear arms. i have spent most of the weekend getting the old arms to fit the RS on the rear. so i am confident ill not be doing rear arms now also.
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Old 03-02-2008, 07:04 PM   #9083
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I thank people plenty....


Im talking about the set screws on the rear a-arms the ones for the droop
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:45 PM   #9084
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front or rear is doing this ?
if front, check the cam adjustment on the front swaybar, loosen the screw and move the eccentric see if the arm comes down onto the droop screw.
if its on the rear, check your shock lengths are the same. there is no tweak adjustment for the rear, but make sure your swaybar at the rear isnt doing this. just undo the bars at the top, slide them out. if still it is doing it. remove the shocks, and see if still does this.
i must have done the wrong dance. we had no rain here, as usual
Hi Paul yep its the rear mate and I have a funny feeling its the sway bar as I am still working out turnbuckle length I will check tonite
cheers
thanku thanku thanku thanku
I just wanted to make sure I had enough thankyous as I dont want to piss you off your to valuable.
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:49 PM   #9085
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I thank people plenty....


Im talking about the set screws on the rear a-arms the ones for the droop
ignorance is bliss.

i have seen 3 guys tell you about the droop screws.
no setup is the same. if you download a setup sheet, and it says to run 1 or 2mm droop, then thats what you use. but dont go putting on smaller tires or larger tires than what that setup sheet said to use. tire diameter changes your droop values. i dont know anyone who measures the droop by the protruding setscrew. the manual gives you a guide to go by, while it is easy enough to actually measure the set screw. if some one says RH + 2 (darren johnson uses this method) i also use this method. it means ride hieght of say 5mm (RH = 5) droop is then + 2mm over ridehieght when the wheels just lift off the ground. so the hieght between chassis and the ground is then 7mm.
you obviously adjust the set screw to achieve this value. amount of droop also changes when you are driving on a bumpy surface, so dont be under the impression that once this screw is set, that you wont have to adjust it no more. if you are using droop blocks, then the 0 is chassis hieght. a positive value is above chassis hieght (hub returns above chassis hieght) a neg value, means the hub returns below chassis hieght. a negative value will give you more droop once wheels are on and car on the ground. hope this helps
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Old 03-02-2008, 08:55 PM   #9086
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Hi Paul yep its the rear mate and I have a funny feeling its the sway bar as I am still working out turnbuckle length I will check tonite
cheers
thanku thanku thanku thanku
I just wanted to make sure I had enough thankyous as I dont want to piss you off your to valuable.
thats Fine Mike.
just a few people are demanding the help, and forget to realise that most are just normal racers that offer the help. manners are of importance at times, or these people will just stop looking at the thread and offer help, then the thread dies off, people then dont race the car.
a simple , cheers, thanks, Ta how ever one wants to express it, its fine.
cheers
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Old 03-02-2008, 09:28 PM   #9087
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thats Fine Mike.
just a few people are demanding the help, and forget to realise that most are just normal racers that offer the help. manners are of importance at times, or these people will just stop looking at the thread and offer help, then the thread dies off, people then dont race the car.
a simple , cheers, thanks, Ta how ever one wants to express it, its fine.
cheers
hey no worries mate did you get to go for a run on the weekend?wasnt your track closed down?we are having some issues with our track as the person leasing the joint is jacking up fees which jack up the cost of nom fees over $10??, what are your nom fees where you are?
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:04 PM   #9088
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hey no worries mate did you get to go for a run on the weekend?wasnt your track closed down?we are having some issues with our track as the person leasing the joint is jacking up fees which jack up the cost of nom fees over $10??, what are your nom fees where you are?
I charge patto $5 but if he brings me some port or wine the night before I forget to charge him anything.

Bye

Oh sorry Love Rowen
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Old 03-02-2008, 10:26 PM   #9089
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racedays has the Atlis 2.0

what set screw are you talking about ? more info or a better description is needed when your asking for help. its impossible to answer questions one cant understand. also a please and thankyou is good now and again.
Raceday also has the Blitz Altis 2.3. I just got me two but haven't painted them yet. First impression: the body is very rigid and strong in areas that need to be.
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Old 03-02-2008, 11:08 PM   #9090
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hey no worries mate did you get to go for a run on the weekend?wasnt your track closed down?we are having some issues with our track as the person leasing the joint is jacking up fees which jack up the cost of nom fees over $10??, what are your nom fees where you are?
Yeah Rowen (piss head) got ir right
i run down to Bunbury to race now, its about 200kms there 200 back.
If im lucky, i get to stay at Grubs place the night before, normally drink too much though. Rowen thinks they are charging me $5, but ive been getting hit for $10, he must be pocketing the rest fund his trip to South Australia Nom Fees are $5 if your a member at bunbury. Yes Rowen, i am a member you might have seen a few signature changes over last thursday night, just have to keep the bunbury Lads amused
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