Team Magic G4
#8986
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
Being so close ?!?! LOL! ...have a look at how the radio gear mounts up on a RRR, the receiver is almost on top of both servos
The G4+ is the hamburger with the lot - every optional extra - it's probably aimed at those who think that they'll go faster by having all the optional "hop up" bits.
The G4RS has all the parts you'll need to be able to go fast - except for maybe a front spool, personal preference
The G4+ is the hamburger with the lot - every optional extra - it's probably aimed at those who think that they'll go faster by having all the optional "hop up" bits.
The G4RS has all the parts you'll need to be able to go fast - except for maybe a front spool, personal preference
also I thought the G4+ was a limited edition with only 1000 made is this the case or is it in continous production now??
thanks for the info
cheers
#8987
guys thanks for replying on the topic of the servos ...
btw, I am just curious, what servos would u recommend ?
btw, I am just curious, what servos would u recommend ?
#8988
IMO, the competition / race servos are a bit expensive but well worth the price and lasts forever. There are budget servos that may fit the need, but they break down sooner and faster. In the long run, you may end up spending more with budget servos because you have to replace them more often
The discontinued Futaba 9550 digital/coreless low profile servo for steering (perfect fit) is still available at online stores, and if you're lucky, at your LHS. This servo is also lighter than a full size servo. This will set you back around $75-80. Lots of G4 users have this servo. It has been replaced by the 9551, which I haven't seen yet because they continue to push back the release date. It is suppose to be a bit stronger and faster.
For throttle, get a good high quality analog servo. My choice is the Airtronics 94357 or 94358.
There are plenty of good choices out there, this is what I use.
Last edited by dnitro; 02-13-2008 at 08:01 AM. Reason: update
#8991
I thought the same when I built mine but thats all good ... as long as all spins its good ...
keep going
keep going
#8995
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
is there any word on an American distributor for TM?
or is TM not going to have a US distributor anymore?
I was looking at RCshopping.com TM's shopping site, and I am going to be raped on shipping when ever I order....
$8 to ship a stupid shock tower? are you kidding me?
or is TM not going to have a US distributor anymore?
I was looking at RCshopping.com TM's shopping site, and I am going to be raped on shipping when ever I order....
$8 to ship a stupid shock tower? are you kidding me?
#8996
The car will still roll freely in a straight even if the diffs are tight. Tight diffs, which sort of acts like a spool, are good for high speed, free flowing tracks while looser diffs are good for small, tight tracks. Either way, you have the ability to brake without loosing the back end.
#8998
Tech Fanatic
RC_Alan
#8999
Tech Elite
iTrader: (74)
cheers
#9000
Generally (!!!)
You will use a very stiff oil in front and low in the rear when there is little grip....... ie: 100,000 FT and 3,000 rear.
For a v. high grip track, some seam to go for slightly lower front and higher rear oil......... ie: 50,000 ft and 30,000 rear.
There are many exceptions to the rule. One nalely the front spool. People have used this in both high and v. low grip conditions.
It does help to pull the car around though, especially in low grip.
Hope this helps you.
Ps: In other words. Try the stock stuff in front and rear. It will give you a general feel. Then once you've taken the car apart a few times, try different oils loosely based around the info' above and see how you like it.
British Menace