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Old 03-29-2006, 09:18 PM   #871
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good deal good to see things are working good got my eye on ya ill see you guys at sedan nats cp im guessing
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Old 03-30-2006, 03:21 AM   #872
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Here is a couple of things we have been trying

18t Brake pulley
19t Side pulley
This is giving us a 5% over drive to the front wheels
We true the front 3mm smaller than the rear
After a 30min final on a high wear track the difference was that the front was 1mm smaller than the rear.
Normally we would end up with the front been 3mm bigger if we started the same size
We found that the smaller\ lower front made the car very stable from the very start of the race. On this track we lose 6 to 7mm in a 30min race on 42's

We agree with motor man that you need to run a higher ratio for first gear. If you check out the mugens etc they run 7.2 to 8 for first gear
We run a 19/51 with the 18brake pulley but have tires around 62mm as we lose 3 mm in a five min run on 37's
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Old 03-30-2006, 07:07 AM   #873
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Yes we use the 18/19 pulley combination also from time to time. I really like that combination when using a lola body on the car. Also if the track is high abrasive like you say that is a reason to use it. we true 3.5 mm instead of 3. I use the 18 on first with 62 rears and 58.5 fronts however we use big rpm modified engines and extend the shift point to get away with it.
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Old 03-30-2006, 08:01 AM   #874
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While we are on this topic.....
How does one determine what rollout and or gearing should be used at a track. I know how to calculate it, I am very interested in knowing how someone determines where to start. Particularly if this is a new track for someone. I know I can always ask someone who runs the track regularly, but I am very interested in how someone determines it for the first time. Is it mearly trial and error?

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Old 03-30-2006, 10:33 AM   #875
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How about 18/20 pulley, anyone try that?
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Old 03-30-2006, 12:44 PM   #876
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The reason we use a overdrive is to try and even out tire wear so with a 18/20 we would get a 11% overdrive which would mean 62 rears would need 55 fronts. This would not work

I will give a 18/52 first gear a try but I might not have a high enough rpm motor.

Once you have raced on a few tracks you will get to know what gearing to run but if not fined a friend to compere your car against with different ratio's
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Old 03-30-2006, 05:52 PM   #877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NZHobbies
The reason we use a overdrive is to try and even out tire wear so with a 18/20 we would get a 11% overdrive which would mean 62 rears would need 55 fronts. This would not work

I will give a 18/52 first gear a try but I might not have a high enough rpm motor.

Once you have raced on a few tracks you will get to know what gearing to run but if not fined a friend to compere your car against with different ratio's
thanks for the answer on pulley ratio

for the first gear, I think 19t is better for me, 18TZ has all the tourque to push it but speed .... I haven't try yet
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Old 03-30-2006, 06:58 PM   #878
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yes with the 18 engine I would use 19 or 20 on first.
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Old 03-31-2006, 12:35 AM   #879
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I prefer the pull of the 18T out of the corner with the stock 19/19/27 gearing, but since going to Nitro Shoes I am getting more tyre wear and less steering so I am going to try 19/19/26 with 2mm split.
Once I've used this batch of Nitro Shoes (might sell them off) I will try to find another supplier for the Speedmind tyres as I was more comfortable with them and has less wear.
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Old 03-31-2006, 09:05 PM   #880
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Really that is good to know. I like the jacos but personally have not tried speedmind tires even though I have heard good things about them. I guess we need to give them a try. Nimo were you running even shore front and rear tires or split like 38 front 40 rear. Also which jaco rim the 5 spoke one or the new serpent one were you using. One of my guys really likies the Jaco two stage rear 40 with a standard 38 front. Only thing on the rears is you need to put a thin layer of superglue on the outsede or the two stages peal away from each other at the edge when they get thin.
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Old 04-01-2006, 12:50 AM   #881
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F/R, 38/38, 38/40, 40/40, 40/42, 42/42.
38,40 was the better but the car pushes too much.
would be interesting hearing what difference there are between the two tyre makes on US soil as UK climate is very different.
Done a test day yesterday, used 40/42 for this. on this test I had a 100k diff up front, 19/19/26 pulleys and moved steering balls for less ackerman. on the first run the car was undrivable, I checked the diff and found a tight spot, so back in went the solid, but still the cars was undrivable, it would push to the wall and the snap around on the slightest of power, so I played around with different splits from 0 to 6mm, none made the cars work, so back to 19/19/27 with zero split, and guess what? still undrivable, only thing left was the pillow balls on the ackerman so I moved these back to the forward hole and wallah! car was a dream, so obviously the ackerman is required on this car. I will now have to find another day to test the diff and 19/19/26 set ups.
I've also bought a new pipe, this being the JP Efra 2620, the extra power has forced me to go back to the 19T 1st, and by the end of the day I was thinking it was close to revving out in 2nd (box LL3 motor), so 24T needs to go back on, Amazing what difference a pipe can make.
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Old 04-01-2006, 12:52 AM   #882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorman
Only thing on the rears is you need to put a thin layer of superglue on the outsede or the two stages peal away from each other at the edge when they get thin.
I use Fender Mender on the outsides of all tyres, has more flex than SuperGlue and doesn't harden the foam.
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Old 04-01-2006, 01:10 AM   #883
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nimo try that setup we posted earlier. this will allow you to back down the ackerman. The one D man Posted and I added a little detail to. Be sure to use 38 fronts and 40 rears. I think you will find the car is a whole different ballgame then.
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Old 04-01-2006, 07:47 AM   #884
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Great to see G4S owners exchanging setup ideals with one another.
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Old 04-01-2006, 10:27 AM   #885
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Quote:
you do realise that the engine horsepower curve has slid up the scale and the torque curve has slid down the scale since then. Hence the need to gear down now.
I have a NIB TOP TN-12 3 port with a slide carb and standard plug head for my G4S. Papers in the box indicate this engine was built in 2002. As a new nitro on-road driver this be a good engine to learn on or would I be better off selling it and putting the money toward something newer?

BTW, the difference between the TN-12 and TT-12 is the TT engine has a turbo head button.

Last edited by BimmerDriver; 04-01-2006 at 10:48 AM. Reason: additional info
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