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Old 11-10-2007, 06:32 AM   #8536
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Default tensioner: top or bottom?

hi,
something to enquire about belt tensioner (rear); it can be mounted either on the bottom (stock) or top (carbon plate)...

so...which one is better? or is there any difference at all?
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Old 11-10-2007, 06:51 AM   #8537
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On the G4S the tensioner mounts on teh chassis and on the older G4/Mongoose it mounts on the carbon brace.
The tensioner on the chassis is a better option as its not on the load side so takes up the flack on the belt.
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Old 11-10-2007, 09:22 AM   #8538
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emankov View Post
Hi guys
i need to ask 2 questions regarding a new build of a g4s (stock).

1) How come my nomadio tranceiver v2, doesnt quite fit in the receiver housing of the car? A hasty mod by me, puts the transeiver 1-2 mm below the chassis
Cannot figure an easy way out.

2) How come the pre-build steering blocks have so much endplay??
Rest of the assembly is ok but endplay of steering system screams "low quality"

Ppl that face same problems plz stand up and help.

Thanks
Pre-building of the steering blocks is a new feature of the G4 kit. They are pre-assembled but are not in "Ready-to-run" condition when you get them. They do this so as driver's/builders can tighten down the pivot ball nut to apply as much, or as little play in the pivot ball joint as they like. Some top drivers have a fare amount of play in this are so as to have as little friction as possible. (Enhances very quick steering and used by drivers with quick reflexes and those that drive aggresively!!)
Others like myself and a fare few others I know, like to have very little or no play in this area! But has been said, try to keep the friction down to a minimum. It will really "sap" the power from your steering servo and hence your battery pack!
Usually, tight pivot ball assembly is used by top drivers who tend to be very smooth drivers. It allows more sensativity from the car to the driver.

It is NOT a quality problem as was suggested! It's done to help us when assembling the car !!

British Menace.
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Old 11-10-2007, 03:44 PM   #8539
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Of course its not.
I recognized my mistake 1 page up.
And yes it is exactly as u said.
Also the tranceiver problem is related to nomadio tranceiver size and its not something TM is responsible of. I have a spectrum receiver on the way...

Bottom line is, if u have to drink during the assembly of your kit, choose the drink wisely....
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Old 11-10-2007, 09:42 PM   #8540
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Of course its not.
Bottom line is, if u have to drink during the assembly of your kit, choose the drink wisely....
hahaha, i like it, my motto is drink as much as possible, even in the big races. makes for more fun
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Old 11-11-2007, 02:04 PM   #8541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emankov View Post
Of course its not.
I recognized my mistake 1 page up.
And yes it is exactly as u said.
Also the tranceiver problem is related to nomadio tranceiver size and its not something TM is responsible of. I have a spectrum receiver on the way...

Bottom line is, if u have to drink during the assembly of your kit, choose the drink wisely....
lol...... funny. Sorry I didn't see your other post recognizing the mystake. Have fun with the car.

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Old 11-11-2007, 06:33 PM   #8542
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ok I need a few suggestions I am running on the tightest track you could imagine with a short straight and I am running my g4s with ed trans front solid axle what would be a good gearing to run on this type of track? also this track has limited grip as I am running 37 front and rear grps.thanks.
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Old 11-11-2007, 11:47 PM   #8543
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ok I need a few suggestions I am running on the tightest track you could imagine with a short straight and I am running my g4s with ed trans front solid axle what would be a good gearing to run on this type of track? also this track has limited grip as I am running 37 front and rear grps.thanks.
the shortest possible gearing is 15/52 and 20/47, then work on your clutch settings from there to be able to get the power down.
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Old 11-12-2007, 02:39 AM   #8544
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thanks Paul thats what I am running now to get the power down would that be tightning the spring or loosening at the moment I am running the blue spring with thread about a mm inside the nut thanks for your help.
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Old 11-12-2007, 02:21 PM   #8545
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If you using the blue spring then id suggest getting a black 1.8mm spring or better yet the Mugen hard spring and remove one of the weights in the flyweight shoes.
When setup right this como works well.
To help the car accelerate better you could also run smaller tyres around 62-60mm but be careful of wear.
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Old 11-12-2007, 04:12 PM   #8546
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I got the black spring there so I will swap it with the round nut screwed down whats a good start point/how far screwed down?keep in mind I need quick ecceleration
cheers!
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Old 11-13-2007, 01:24 AM   #8547
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id say .5 - 1mm max to start with or better yet go flush and adjust a quater turn at a time but make sure it doesnt slip.
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Old 11-13-2007, 03:03 AM   #8548
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Old 11-14-2007, 11:12 AM   #8549
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I here that Tm might have found a mainstream distributor for there onroad products in the Us I will no more soon.
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Old 11-15-2007, 12:42 PM   #8550
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