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Old 10-24-2007, 10:06 AM   #8431
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Thanks Serpentd

Gansei when you did the lipo conversion and ground the radio tray, did you grind a bit of the radio plate post and the front shaft holder ?
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Old 10-24-2007, 10:46 AM   #8432
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Thanks Serpentd

Gansei when you did the lipo conversion and ground the radio tray, did you grind a bit of the radio plate post and the front shaft holder ?

i made lipo conversion about 1-2 month ago.
(because Sanwa SpeckTrum glitch problem when low battery)


i grind only radio plate post... did not grind the front shaft holder.
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Old 10-24-2007, 03:20 PM   #8433
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OK thanks Gansei
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Old 10-24-2007, 09:50 PM   #8434
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hi guys I am interested on what diameter do you have your tires trued to front/rear? and what brand tires are you all running??
thanks
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Old 10-25-2007, 04:22 AM   #8435
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Questions?? G4S Newbie stories..

Guys,
This thread has been a great source of information, I've just got started into nitro R/C with a brand new G4S! I thought I might share some of the issues that I've had...


1. After three tanks of fuel one of the front one-way diff cups snapped...
I was running a solid axel... no crash?


2. After 2lts of fuel thru the engine, the clutch appeared to be not engaging, the engine would rev ok, but no go forward... I checked out the clutch setup etc... everything looked ok..

One of the experienced guys at the track immediately said it was the one-way bearing in the transmission hub.. part# 502111 on inspection I could see that it was dirt that caused the problem... There has been much debate on the thread about the one-way bearing maintenance (for the front oneway/diff/solid axel) what do you guys do for the transmission's one way?

3... Iíve been unable to find an answer for an engine tuning problem...
the engine is starting, idling and running great for about 5-6min... after running down the main straight flat out the engine wont idle down, for about 4-5 sec or until I blip the throttle.. then it settles down... until I run down the straight again... its idling high enough to engage the clutch and push it (too fast) around the next corner..
I have tried to richen up the low speed, but it doesn't seem to help at all...
and everything that I've found online suggests that leaning the fuel mix will cause a high idle... please help !

P.S
anthony_ling
Race Report #1
First ever race meeting went like this...
First heat... engine stalled just before the start of the race.. car got started and got back out onto the track... just tried to keep out of the way and get to know the track... did 7 laps, crashed 6 times (but didn't hit anyone else)


Second Heat.
engine was reving like a biatch (was suspecting clutch setup) car had drive for about 10m then rev again... DNF...

(checked the clutch setup between heats.. )

Thrid...
same as above.. damn..

did I have fun? you bet..

since the race, i've replaced the one way hub in the 2 speed... got about 7 tanks of practice in... and looking forward to the racing this weekend..
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Old 10-25-2007, 06:38 AM   #8436
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Originally Posted by aussies1129 View Post
hi guys I am interested on what diameter do you have your tires trued to front/rear? and what brand tires are you all running??
thanks
61mm front...63mmrear.....Jaco Nitro Shoes...
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:45 AM   #8437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aussies1129 View Post
hi guys I am interested on what diameter do you have your tires trued to front/rear? and what brand tires are you all running??
thanks
I run the tires as big as i can with out traction rolling! but if you run them on the bigger side just be aware of your rollout because you might need to gear down a bit.
I run k factory tires
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Old 10-25-2007, 08:54 AM   #8438
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Guys,

did I have fun? you bet..

since the race, i've replaced the one way hub in the 2 speed... got about 7 tanks of practice in... and looking forward to the racing this weekend..
THAT is the HOBBY, to have fun!!!!
Try some serpent one way lub on the one way bearing, hope this helps,
I had that problem also but fixed with the one way lube.
remamber PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE and PRACTICE a little more...
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Old 10-25-2007, 09:09 AM   #8439
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yes, oneway lube does the job but not too much! just one drop on the one way hub, just turn hub slowly to coat the hub completely. Then put one way on the hub and turn it couple of revs.

I personally clean one way with brake cleaner, give it a good air spray then lube it after every day in a race weekend.


hope this helps.



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Old 10-25-2007, 10:44 AM   #8440
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Default rain tire

the possibility of korean national race will be under rain is very high.

But korea RC Distributer did not import rain tire..


so i must use sponge tire..

are there good tip that go well under rain?
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Old 10-25-2007, 11:52 AM   #8441
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Gansei give Slwsteady a pm or give him a shout on 3hobby.He will definately be able to give you some good advise for wet weather racing.
Better yet give Muppetracer/Daz a pm or email, he will be the perfect person to speak to.

Chears and good luck.
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:22 PM   #8442
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[QUOTE=anthony_ling;3798998]Guys,
This thread has been a great source of information, I've just got started into nitro R/C with a brand new G4S! I thought I might share some of the issues that I've had...


3... Iíve been unable to find an answer for an engine tuning problem...
the engine is starting, idling and running great for about 5-6min... after running down the main straight flat out the engine wont idle down, for about 4-5 sec or until I blip the throttle.. then it settles down... until I run down the straight again... its idling high enough to engage the clutch and push it (too fast) around the next corner..
I have tried to richen up the low speed, but it doesn't seem to help at all...
and everything that I've found online suggests that leaning the fuel mix will cause a high idle... please help !

QUOTE]

Dude, what you are excperiencing with the high idle can be a bugger to figure out. I think what is going on is that you need to LEAN your low end out and have it idle high. After you lean out the low end, you need to adjust your idle screw to lower the rpm's. I think it's running a high idle right now because of TOO much fuel it's trying to burn off. So when you lean it, It won't have this extra fuel so to speak and all you have to do is lower your idle after you get it to run a steady higher idle. Once you have a steady HIGH idle, lower the idle screw. This is tricky because it can go one way or the other. So instead of going rich on the low end, go lean. It should stay at a high idle as I mentioned and then just adjust your idle down with the idle screw. You may need to richen the top a bit to compensate for this. Just make sure you don't do more then 1/8th of a turn at a time when your leaning the low end. Lean it out and take a lap or two. And keep leaning it until you do get a steady higher rpm. Make sure your engine is up to temp before you start adjusting stuff though. Try that and see how it goes. I think you'll find that you've been running too rich on the bottom this whole time. Good luck bro! Let us know your findings. Later!
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Old 10-25-2007, 12:34 PM   #8443
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hi guys I am interested on what diameter do you have your tires trued to front/rear? and what brand tires are you all running??
thanks
I run GQ Tires because imo they are the strongest! 58F/60R for quals. 60F/62R for 20-30 min mains.

I think others have also express that the car handles better with bigger tires.
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Old 10-25-2007, 01:57 PM   #8444
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Kfactory quick release on the ED car and GRP on my std G4S.


As for what SerpentD said i will agree it sounds like the bottom mixture is too rich , thats why its running on after you cleared the pipe.
Folow what SerpentD said and all should be good.
On teh clutch make sure its not slipping too much as it will wear out teh shoe quickly.
Id recommend reading over this thread for clutch info from over the last 6 months and yes i know its a lot to read but well worth it
Also great idea to check out www.nitrokb.com for builds tips etc...

enjoy and have FUN !!!
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Old 10-26-2007, 07:09 AM   #8445
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from TM site :

Team Magic will be releasing its latest 1/10 GP Touring Car, G4RS, soon. This car is specifically made for competition and will take its previous already well performed, 2 times European Champtioin G4 models to the next level.

More information will be officially announced soon.

Team Magic G4RS Features:

Lightweight Narrow 3mm 7075 Chassis (Width 74mm)
All New Short Rear End Design
Flying Wing Suspension Arms
Front & Rear Quick Change Bulkhead
New High Speed Gear Ratio
New 2 Speed System
Adjustable Front & Rear Anti-Roll Bar
Front & Rear Gear Differential
New Shock Absorber
Lightweight Shock Mount & Carbon Fiber Shock Tower
Carbon Fiber X Plate
Quick Release Carbon Fiber Radio Plate
Lightweight Engine Mount
K Factory Front Universal Joint
K Factory UFO2 Clutch System
K Factory ST Steel Hinge Pin
Attached Thumbnails
Team Magic G4-tmg4rs.jpg  
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