Team Magic G4
#8326
recent my G4S
i prepare korea kyosho Race in this weekend.
i will test Kyosho CRF engines in this race.
i will test Kyosho CRF engines in this race.
#8327
Hi all....
Getting ready for the nationals and was wondering if there is anyone out there that has run on this track at all with the G4s or the G4+?? Just want to see what they like with there car for that track , since i get there pretty late in the week and practice will be at a premium....
Mike Blackstock
Getting ready for the nationals and was wondering if there is anyone out there that has run on this track at all with the G4s or the G4+?? Just want to see what they like with there car for that track , since i get there pretty late in the week and practice will be at a premium....
Mike Blackstock
#8328
Tech Regular
iTrader: (4)
There are no local G4 drivers around this track, they just resealed it for the second time so everyones setup is up in the air right now until the track settles down but there are a couple of wicked bumps (one putting ron atomic into a flat spin going down the straight, while going straight amazingly enough) and with enough rubber the traction gets decent, previously to the point of traction rolling but I haven't seen it anywhere near where it was last year yet.
#8329
#8330
i will test it in this weekend.
and i heard from my friends that CRF bearing had not good quality.
so i will change the other maker bearing
(front bearing is same with novarossi 359's front
rear bearing is same with OS 12 TZ's rear)
#8331
Tech Master
iTrader: (15)
I have run the CRF engine almost all year and I find it very good. The bearings will suffer if you have poor quality fuel, but with good quality fuel (better quality oil), the bearings are very good. CRF does recommend changing them after every 10 hours though. The good thing is that the conrod very rarely needs replacing. The piston and sleeve are also very durable as long as you get everything right.
One of the best methods for tuning this engine is to start with 1.5 turns out on the middle needle and then adjust the low end needle to make 47.9mm (see the team orion site for a diagram). This is an excellent starting point and I always start at this point for racing. Adjust the top end needle for maximum power from there. If you want more bottom end, don't adjust the needle, just adjust the clutch parts.
I have even run this engine after it swallowed a plug element and it built up enough carbon deposit to seal the piston again.
The engine will not have the same bottom end power you were used to with the modified TZ engines, but you can compensate with clutch tuning and very slight bottom end needle settings.
Hope this helps.
#8333
W O W !!! that brings back memories
#8334
Hi Gansei,
I have run the CRF engine almost all year and I find it very good. The bearings will suffer if you have poor quality fuel, but with good quality fuel (better quality oil), the bearings are very good. CRF does recommend changing them after every 10 hours though. The good thing is that the conrod very rarely needs replacing. The piston and sleeve are also very durable as long as you get everything right.
One of the best methods for tuning this engine is to start with 1.5 turns out on the middle needle and then adjust the low end needle to make 47.9mm (see the team orion site for a diagram). This is an excellent starting point and I always start at this point for racing. Adjust the top end needle for maximum power from there. If you want more bottom end, don't adjust the needle, just adjust the clutch parts.
I have even run this engine after it swallowed a plug element and it built up enough carbon deposit to seal the piston again.
The engine will not have the same bottom end power you were used to with the modified TZ engines, but you can compensate with clutch tuning and very slight bottom end needle settings.
Hope this helps.
I have run the CRF engine almost all year and I find it very good. The bearings will suffer if you have poor quality fuel, but with good quality fuel (better quality oil), the bearings are very good. CRF does recommend changing them after every 10 hours though. The good thing is that the conrod very rarely needs replacing. The piston and sleeve are also very durable as long as you get everything right.
One of the best methods for tuning this engine is to start with 1.5 turns out on the middle needle and then adjust the low end needle to make 47.9mm (see the team orion site for a diagram). This is an excellent starting point and I always start at this point for racing. Adjust the top end needle for maximum power from there. If you want more bottom end, don't adjust the needle, just adjust the clutch parts.
I have even run this engine after it swallowed a plug element and it built up enough carbon deposit to seal the piston again.
The engine will not have the same bottom end power you were used to with the modified TZ engines, but you can compensate with clutch tuning and very slight bottom end needle settings.
Hope this helps.
Thanks Zoom.
i purchased CRF clutch spring, CRF pipe
could you give me the Best UFO clutch setup informaiton when use CRF?
#8335
#8336
Brainhatesnitro....
Thanks for the info... You race the G4s there ??? Since i am getting there so late wed... It will be difficult as it is to get used to the track rather then having to worry about starting points....
Mike
Thanks for the info... You race the G4s there ??? Since i am getting there so late wed... It will be difficult as it is to get used to the track rather then having to worry about starting points....
Mike
#8337
At least everyone is in the dark since the new sealer was laid down. Ron Atomic was out testing last weekend and was at least a full second slower than he was on the previous track and was changing his setup considerably.