R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-02-2007, 12:31 AM   #8281
Tech Adept
 
Rawz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brasilia, Brazil
Posts: 116
Default

Hello guys.
Anyone using analog and digital servo at the same time?
Like analog for throtle, digital for stering ?
Rawz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 01:56 AM   #8282
Tech Fanatic
 
Serpentd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Evans, CO. USA
Posts: 798
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawz View Post
Hello guys.
Anyone using analog and digital servo at the same time?
Like analog for throtle, digital for stering ?
Yeah dude! I have one of my cars where I am useing the JR 9000S digital servo for steering and the Airtronics 94357 for throttle. This has been my favorite combo to date. Both are SUPER fast with great torque. the JR is .06sec/60 degrees and the Airtronics is .07sec I think. They both have close to 125 in/oz of torque. I'm sure that with 1100 MaH you could run for an hour. but it might be close depending on your driving style. I would be comfortable with it. I have went 45 minutes on the 900Mah packs. The airtronics is about $100USD and the JR is about $120USD.

JR is actually comming out with a new servo 9001S. This thing is unbeleivable. The same speed as the 9000S but with 180 in/oz of torque! DUDE! Holy shit Batman, that is just nuts. But cool as hell. We don't need that much torque in our touring cars. More of an off road steering servo. Good luck man. Later!
__________________
Blessed are the SIC
Serpentd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 01:59 AM   #8283
Tech Master
 
Z00M's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,173
Trader Rating: 15 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawz View Post
Hello guys.
Anyone using analog and digital servo at the same time?
Like analog for throtle, digital for stering ?
I do. I use a Helios with a spektrum pro and I found that you can't run the high response mode with the analog servos. My servos behaved very eratically when I had a digital and an analog together until I turned the high response mode off via the little switch behind the TX module. After that it was fine.
__________________
My blog: http://mikesrc.wordpress.com
XRAY XB4
## NOSRAM ## XRAY ## KO ##
www.nbhc.com.au - www.teamxray.com
Z00M is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 02:15 AM   #8284
Tech Addict
 
hooked_on's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 725
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawz View Post
Hello guys.
Anyone using analog and digital servo at the same time?
Like analog for throtle, digital for stering ?
Hello

It does depend on your radio. The Futaba radios in HRS mode require Digital only, or you can run them im PPM mode to run either Digital or Analog. Refer to your manual for your radio.

Thanxs
__________________
- - - - 2013 Dick Johnson Racing Team Mate Member - - - -
hooked_on is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 03:21 AM   #8285
Tech Regular
 
dnitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 311
Default

I too use the 94357 for throttle, but I use the Fut 9550 low profile servo. So far, I have three (on three cars), and one of them is three years old. Not as fast as the JRs that SerpentD mentioned but works great for my driving style and cost only $75. It is a low profile (less weight) servo that fits nicely in the G4s.

I had a defective brand new 9550 that would just stop turning for no apparent reason, then it would work again. I sent it in for service and Futaba said they would replace it with a new servo. The 9550 is now discontinued and will be replaced with the 9551 in late Oct, early Nov. It is the same low profile servo but I think the specs have been improved.
__________________
TM G4S
IDM Evo3
dnitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 03:55 AM   #8286
Tech Elite
 
Pattojnr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Perth Australia
Posts: 4,594
Trader Rating: 19 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boz View Post
4 wheels are better than 2.....
looks like its in need of some TLC there Boz.
but a classic old muscle car
give me a call when you have some time, cheers .
__________________
Serpent - Walter RC
Serpent E Power ..... Serpent 747 Reds M3T
Serpent 966-TE Reds M7T .... S411ERYX Speedpassion 3.5T, T-Shox
Serpent 811-TE REDs R5T
Pattojnr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 09:50 AM   #8287
Tech Regular
 
asil's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Istanbul, TURKEY
Posts: 281
Send a message via MSN to asil
Default

I use Futaba 9451 for both steering and throttle and with 1000mAh rx pack and 1 hour main.. no problems even if with CRF's strong carb. spring


Asil
asil is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-02-2007, 04:40 PM   #8288
Tech Adept
 
Rawz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Brasilia, Brazil
Posts: 116
Default

Great info all, thankx a lot for the replies.
I use two Fut 9350. But I think I should have more battery life. Using a 1100mAh. Always charge with the Duratrax Ice, and it pumps near 1200mAh every charge.
Rawz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2007, 12:50 AM   #8289
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

I am using 1000mah Sanyos that i made into a pack and with my analogue servos get over a hour run time.
With the lipo conversion almost complete time wont be an issue
I havent gine digital never felt the need for it but will be looking at it as a lot of guys have said its adviseable.

Cars in pieces getting it ready for the final national of the year.
so looking forward to it
Final event to be held at the oldest rc track in SA, so we expecting a big entry as a farewell to a great track.
__________________
Casterracing ZX1.5R
casterracing EX-1 Pro, SP Silver Arrow
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 17.5, SP GT Pro 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 4.5 V2, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 13.5, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
razzor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2007, 12:56 AM   #8290
Tech Regular
 
dnitro's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Chino, CA
Posts: 311
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor View Post
Final event to be held at the oldest rc track in SA, so we expecting a big entry as a farewell to a great track.
Its sad to see on-road tracks close and not get replaced.
__________________
TM G4S
IDM Evo3
dnitro is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2007, 01:28 AM   #8291
Tech Elite
 
razzor's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Durban, South Africa
Posts: 2,810
Default

Yeah , Atlas has been around for 25/30 years and is the only track that hosted a nat every year.
Good thing though is it is being replaced by other great up to date tracks.
__________________
Casterracing ZX1.5R
casterracing EX-1 Pro, SP Silver Arrow
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 17.5, SP GT Pro 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 4.5 V2, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
TOP Racing Scythe, SP 13.5, Hobbywing Xerun 120SD 2.0
razzor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2007, 06:24 AM   #8292
Tech Elite
 
Kodak Hodak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: South Australia, Australia
Posts: 2,159
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Kodak Hodak Send a message via Yahoo to Kodak Hodak Send a message via Skype™ to Kodak Hodak
Default

anyone got good tips in building a good front diff? - just got min, but missing o-rings, shims and why is the gear a little crooked once boted on?

mmmh any photos in how to do this process?

cheers, plus good oils for front and rear for high grip track, little bumpy
__________________
★ DORMANT RC RACER ★
Kodak Hodak is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2007, 05:19 AM   #8293
Tech Addict
 
hooked_on's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Australia
Posts: 725
Trader Rating: 1 (100%+)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
anyone got good tips in building a good front diff? - just got min, but missing o-rings, shims and why is the gear a little crooked once boted on?

mmmh any photos in how to do this process?

cheers, plus good oils for front and rear for high grip track, little bumpy
Kodak:

Think you will need everything, otherwise the gears won't mesh correctly.

Thanxs
hooked_on is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-04-2007, 05:00 PM   #8294
Tech Elite
 
British Menace's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Davenport, IA
Posts: 2,338
Default

Frankie,

As said, ensure you have all the parts before you start to put the diff' together.
Also, get some green slime, if you can get some. This will also be good for when you service your dampers too !!

Get a small container/cylinder that the body of the diff' will sit upright in. That way you will be able to let the diff stand on it, upright and not spill over when you put the oil in.

I have found the best way is to build the deep body of the diff first with outdrive,o ring and larger toothed gear and pin.

Start to put some of your desired oil in (1/3 full) Then put your 'criss-cross' assembly of smaller toothed pinions on their shafts, complete with spacer/washers. Ensure the two shafts are placed together on the flats machined in the shafts....this is very important !
Put these into the body and push fully down.
Top up just level with the top of the body (Don't 'domb' the oil in the body!)

Place the gasget in the lid along with the pulley and the outdrive and pin.
Ensure this seats nicely in the lid !! Can be difficult this. Try to keep the gasget dry for as long into the process as poss' !

Now, before you place the 'lid' on............. place the 2nd larger toothed pinion/wheel on the body/assembly. Make sure it seats well and is "in mesh" with the other pinions/wheels !! Push down on this wheel to ensure everything is fully in place. Now wait for the bubbles to dissapate and ensure the body is full of oil.......about 15 to 30 mins ! (Especially with 100 or 120,000 WT oil !)

Take a note of the direction of the drive slot in this last pulley as you will need to line up the pin in the outdrive which is already in the lid with this drive slot.
Tip: Try to make it horizontal or vertical. It makes it easier! Remember your lining up the screw holes aswell as the pin !!!!


Place the lid in position on top of the body and press together.
Now, make sure the lid is flat on the body !

Place in your screws and tighten criss-cross fasion. There should not be any need to tighten really hard. If the gasget is seated well and you have placed the lid on straight and firmly. Do the tightening of the screws in stages as this will help to seat the two mating surfaces together better.

Hope this all helps Frankie and the best of luck to you !1

British Menace
__________________
So enjoying building cars I sometimes forget to save some "man-time" to race them!?
British Menace is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2007, 09:30 AM   #8295
Tech Elite
 
Kodak Hodak's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: South Australia, Australia
Posts: 2,159
Trader Rating: 10 (100%+)
Send a message via MSN to Kodak Hodak Send a message via Yahoo to Kodak Hodak Send a message via Skype™ to Kodak Hodak
Default

cheers for that british man - just nearly got my entire rebuilt - for the October Nationals - i shall post pics in a few days with the new scheme for the natz....

been so busy its not funny, i guess its been a while since i built the whole car again with fresh parts, plus got plenty to build another LOL!!!

anyways, ill attack the diff soon as i get my parts that are missing, looks like ill build it in melbourne as we will be heading over there early and i can determine if the diff is better than spool....

what do you all think?

Spool V'S Diffs?

Peace Out
__________________
★ DORMANT RC RACER ★
Kodak Hodak is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Team Magic G4 - LRP Z12R Team Spec 2 - Add RX/TX LogiK Australia For Sale/Trade 1 08-03-2007 02:00 AM
Team Magic G4s MaDaGAS CAR Australia For Sale/Trade 29 05-07-2007 03:30 AM
Brian Berry Joins Team Phenix/Team Magic Motorman Nitro On-Road 27 03-07-2006 05:51 AM
team magic g4 + elephant R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 4 04-26-2004 07:34 AM
Team Magic G4 "Black Magic" tennessee Nitro On-Road 32 04-20-2003 11:40 AM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 02:20 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net