fulcrum07

Hello, currently i am driving a stock g4s. i have seen some ppl upgrading their cars to "near" g4+ standard(some call it g4-). If i want to enhance my stock chassis to G4-, where're the areas that need the upgrades? I have allocated a budget of US$70, enough? what are the parts i need to buy? How does it improve the car's handling? Any help will be appreciated. Thank you.

razzor

Bud the 2 upgrades i would highly recommend is is the ED transmission and the new rear stabiliser.
Other than those the G4S kit is still on the money for performance and handling.

The ED is great for tight technical tracks giving great accelleration out of corners.Note provided you have a good clutch setup.
The rear stabiliser is more stiff than the stock rear sway bar and gives more tuning options, you do need the new rear bulkheads to go with it. Alternative is to do the Mugen sway bar mod that you can find by browsing the thread or check out nitrokb.com for tips.

Kodak Hodak

iTrader: (10)

Hey Guys,

Still alive - been flat out with manythings - still racing just missed 1 round and we have had a break from our club due to winter....

thou the WASP engine going well and still trying to get it going right!

Nationals coming soon in October - few crew heading up to Surrey Hill "Victoria" shall be a large G4S/G4+ Klan....

Gansei - sorry dude no Transforma - we just too busy at work "Maybe Next Time"

Ok guys trying to get my hands on a JLR Red Dot - any links help me find one in Stock?

cheers

casimirsa

One of the guys at our club also has issues to get it running good!
We swopped the carb woth a novarossi carb and the motor was perfect!

gansei

oh! transG4ormer!!!

and.. korea national will be opened in Oct too !!

good luck to Kodak Hodak

Stroker Ace

iTrader: (5)

I’m assembling my new G4S kit and may have a problem with the front end, specifically the sway bar. When the front end approaches the top of its travel, it gets hard to move and once you get it to the top, its stuck enough that it won’t drop to the bottom of its travel under its own weight. It felt to me like the sway bar ball was bottoming out in the socket as it went over center so I backed both pieces off so the ball wasn’t so deep in the socket but that didn’t change anything. The one thing I did notice is that the socket of the rear sway bar appears polished but the front one isn’t. Does anyone know what, if anything is wrong? How did you fix it? Thanks.

gansei

1) pass through sus arm + sway bar mount hole with 3.01 reamer.

2) cut off sus-arm bulkhead side

Stroker Ace

iTrader: (5)

Thank you for your response Gansei. I'll have to get a reamer and try that. The thing is, with the sway bar off and the aluminum sway bar mounts on (and the pin installed through the arm and the aluminum swaybar mounts) there is no binding. Do you think that's most indicative of a swaybar ball and socket issue?

Jorge G

Check the list of parts needed in the racedayhobbies website. The ED Transmition will be great if you have a super powerfull engine and run in a tigh track

Z00M

iTrader: (15)

Stroker, make sure you assemble the arms and swaybars onto the bulkheads with the swaybar mount cams loose and not tight. Only tighten these when you have everything together. Other than that, do what gansei has shown and it will be fine. I used a small round needle file and it worked as well. But you must only tighten the cams once you have everything together.

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

got my new motor yesterday for the nationals. Novarossi sure seems to be hard to source at the moment. but anyways i got it in the end
might have to run down in bunbury to see how she goes, as our track has stopped racing until further notice, noise levels high and council has stopped all running on the track. hope we get it sorted soon, but till then there is only one meet in bunbury till the nationals. off to post the entry form in now,

dnitro

Paul,

I guess the EVO3 has had its last race. How many gallons errr liters did you put thru it?

I'm about to go on my first race next weekend since March when the local track shut down. The object is to get back in the groove of things and let the IDM strech its legs. Now have to travel 1 hour to practice race. That doesn't seem that far but I was only 5 miles from the one that closed down.

dnitro

BM,
Did you ever get my PM re: local hobby shops in So California? I think I sent it twice.

Don

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

the IDM is still going strong. i will pull it down and have a look inside. but the Nova is for the nationals, dont want to run a motor that has had around 8 -10 lts of fuel go thru it. for the IDM , i think a new conrod and some bearings and it will be ok again for another 5lts ? it still has pinch very happy with the engine itself, just somethings are the operators problem
ill try to get to bunbury to give the nova a run before the nationals, i have 3 tanks thru it now, and some more tommorow, have to find a clean carpark somewhere, hope to put another 8 or so tanks thru it and then have a looksy inside.

gansei

Gansei's Engine Die Movie (run with only 1st Gear)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s-k3EkQcpAI

Gansei(G4S) VS NT1 Battle

But i changed broken con-rod.. and do battle with NT1.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NmmE2D-E3C4