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Old 07-13-2007, 01:31 PM   #7621
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From the pics i can see patto cut part of the radio tray for the battery to fit.
Im going to look at this although i got my pack to fit in teh reciever area and was going to move the reciver to the battery area.
Will look at it and see which has better balance as the lipo packs are not as heavy as the nimh batteries.
Benefits from this should be faster reacting servos and consistent voltage for a longer period of time with teh regulater.was running my truggy during the week and gout 1hour 25 mins runtime with a 1800 lipo pack.in the G4S that would be a lot more run time not that ill ever run that long in onroad but definately a whole day at the track with out a recharge.

Thanks for the pics Patto
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Old 07-13-2007, 03:43 PM   #7622
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Default Li-Po Pack

Hi all,

I used the slightly smaller 800mAh pack in mine and it needed very little top deck mod' to secure it in the same battery position as stock.
I also put the regulator on the transponder mount. I had the smaller 3A regulator.

With a balloon over the top it fits there very well.

A side note to all this is that in race trim my car now weighs in at 1700g !

Complete with body, tires and all ! I use the K Factory pre-painted shell as it's more robust to the 'occasional' glance off the barriers and it's slightly heavier so it gets the car back to the legal weight of 1725g

So evereyone is happy.

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Old 07-13-2007, 04:49 PM   #7623
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hey guys, im in the process of building my car and am a bit confused.

first, if you are using the the flying wing arms do you need to find shims to make up for the extra slop on the hinge pins?

and second, did you guys have to shave a bit off of the bulkhead to make sure the front sway bar holders dont bind?
thanks in advance
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Old 07-13-2007, 05:02 PM   #7624
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Originally Posted by Perez View Post
hey guys, im in the process of building my car and am a bit confused.

first, if you are using the the flying wing arms do you need to find shims to make up for the extra slop on the hinge pins?

and second, did you guys have to shave a bit off of the bulkhead to make sure the front sway bar holders dont bind?
thanks in advance

Hey Steve,
Good to have you in the team !!

On the front sway bars.....yes. They can be a little tight. Sometimes it's enough to put a small spacer / shim behind the sway bar mount. Between the mount and the A arm. On the mounting screw.

On the flying wing. I thought the spacers came with the parts. Maybe the new rear bracket. (502290)

I use the spacers that come with the flash pit rear upper links K14123-4
But I guess small 3mm id washers will do. Or you can use the clips which you use to alter the front castor. Some have been using these to space/ alter the rear for wheelbase changes.

Hope this helps Steve.

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Old 07-13-2007, 06:28 PM   #7625
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i got the rear G4+ swaybar

G4S+ !!!!!
yo gansei, u always have the latest options huh?? keke.. how was it compared to stock one?
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Old 07-13-2007, 06:35 PM   #7626
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guys, those G4+ options that you have upgraded, do they actually give better performance? or just bling bling?
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Old 07-13-2007, 07:36 PM   #7627
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guys, those G4+ options that you have upgraded, do they actually give better performance? or just bling bling?
The rear roll bar I think is a great performance upgrade. It gives you the option of going a little stiffer on your rear roll setting.

The Duro gears and housing is lighter and more durable.(Time will tell with durability) but lighter is always a good thing especially with transmission!
The flying wing A arms are TM giving us what we(drivers and owners) thought of ourselves anyway. Wheelbase adjustability without losing our castor setting!

The upgraded parts I've found to be small refinements which help us get the best out of our cars..........with the extra "PLUS" of looking really cool too !!!

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Old 07-13-2007, 08:05 PM   #7628
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Perez View Post
hey guys, im in the process of building my car and am a bit confused.

first, if you are using the the flying wing arms do you need to find shims to make up for the extra slop on the hinge pins?

and second, did you guys have to shave a bit off of the bulkhead to make sure the front sway bar holders dont bind?
thanks in advance
Hey Steve,
Didn't realize myself they have them seperately.

TM502287 G4 Flying Wing Arm Clip And Spacer Set

This is what you need.

Menace
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Old 07-13-2007, 11:01 PM   #7629
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Had some bad luck today in practice: happened before to patto Jnr, the front ED trans outside belt pully sheared completely off....!

i had hit a car on the straight as he swerved to the inside of my lane and i collected his right rear end and broke his arm, and i sufferred ED trans drama!

the screw that is left inside can come out, it just shear the shaft thread!

maybe we need to redisgn this section as its a expensive break, and it doesnt make sense to have two thread on the outside pulley!!!

No my delema is this:

What gearing can i use now to compensate for race tomorrow?

I have old standard transmission, but can we modify something to suit half and half of stock gearing and ED trans gearing!

Get ya maths book out as i really need help bad!

Rgards
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Attached Thumbnails
Team Magic G4-ed-001.jpg   Team Magic G4-ed-002.jpg   Team Magic G4-ed-003.jpg   Team Magic G4-ed-004.jpg   Team Magic G4-ed-006.jpg  

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Old 07-14-2007, 01:15 AM   #7630
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Hi Kodak,

Bad luck !

If you have a 20T alu rear side pulley, you can modify that to fit, as the inside middle shaft pulley, you just need to make the shoulder (that the E-clip sits against) a little shorter, so you can get the E-clip on. You can either dremel it or use a large drill bit, its quite easy.

Then just use your G4S middle shaft with a kit 27T outside middle pulley, and you will be up and running ! You might find running a plastic 27T looks after your middle belt too !!

Good Luck.
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Old 07-14-2007, 01:43 AM   #7631
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Hi Kodak,

Bad luck !

If you have a 20T alu rear side pulley, you can modify that to fit, as the inside middle shaft pulley, you just need to make the shoulder (that the E-clip sits against) a little shorter, so you can get the E-clip on. You can either dremel it or use a large drill bit, its quite easy.

Then just use your G4S middle shaft with a kit 27T outside middle pulley, and you will be up and running ! You might find running a plastic 27T looks after your middle belt too !!

Good Luck.
cheers dude,

putting the stock trans back in for tomorrow, will run a 52T 1ST GEAR AND A 47T second gear

will be ok to run the ED pinions?
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Old 07-14-2007, 03:31 AM   #7632
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With all the talk about car weight, I thought I better put a battery in my scales and find out what the go is. My car with 61mm tyres and the body and transponder and everything ready to race except fuel is 1754 grams. Just thought I'd share.
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Old 07-14-2007, 07:31 AM   #7633
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cheers dude,

putting the stock trans back in for tomorrow, will run a 52T 1ST GEAR AND A 47T second gear

will be ok to run the ED pinions?
If your running the stock transmission, using the ED pinions will gear the car too low.
Unless you have a 20t side and brake pulley, 26t front side pully. Then you can use these and the ED pinions.

IE:
32t Front Pulley (Stock)
26t front side pully
20t rear side pulley
20t Brake pulley
46t Rear Diff' pulley (ED)

With this you can use the ED pinions and the tire split is basically Zero! (No tire split needed)
If you don't have all these pulley's Frankie, the ED pinions may be too small unless you have a very small track. If you do, try the 17/22 combo with 51/46 spure's and see how that goes.

Hope this helps

Tony (Menace)
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Old 07-14-2007, 10:23 AM   #7634
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Well guys dont know how the stock trans will go but its back in the car for tomrrows race as i dont have the parts to fix the ED trans!!!

I have a 52T 1st & 47T Second, hopefully ill see how this behaves and goes, but while i was placing the old transmission in, i hooked up a quicky body for tomorrow as the old BLING shell is well you know Thrashed!

Here some pics of almost race ready
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Old 07-14-2007, 10:42 AM   #7635
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thanks for the help Tony!
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