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Old 07-02-2007, 06:43 PM   #7456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
I would go as advised. 2mm at rear and maybe 0 at the front.

Daz has a good starting set up where he measures the droop from ride hight.
So, with car in ready to race condition, gently raise the front of the car. If your front ride hight is 5mm. As you raise the car look at the tires, they should leave the ground when your chassis is 7mm off the ground. Do you see what I meen? This is 2mm of "droop" !

Likewise at the rear. Only this time set it at 4 - 5mm of droop.
IE: If ride hight set to 5mm. Raising the car, rear wheels should leave the ground at 9 - 10mm ride hight.

This way. It does not matter what tire sizes you run. Your droop will always be set the same.

Hope this helps.

Menace
yo menace, now i know wat u mean, setting the droop limits the distance of ride height. so no matter how long i set the shock, it would be unable to get the ride height i want. ok. i shall try to reduce the droop and see. thanks.
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Old 07-02-2007, 09:01 PM   #7457
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Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
Hi gansei,

I really dont understand why you have so much trouble with the clutch, from your picture you have not cleaned out the holes inside the clutch bell, which results in a small contact patch of the clutch shoe (as the sharpness of the edge of the holes cuts the shoe) this is VERY important.

Dont worry about the inside of the bell being scratched, its not an issue.

If you smooth the edges of the holes, then you will have a greater contact area and a far better clutch. I have posted good clutch settings before, which I run with Factory Nova Rossi engines, which have plenty of torque

I think maybe you were wearing clutch shoes, because the clutch is slipping too much because the contact patch is too small......

If you need to shorten the 2 speed screws, then thats an easy job. Maybe some kits came with too long screws ? I ran the same 2 speed all last season, its very good and very consistent.

Good Luck.

i did clean small contact patch of the clutch shoe by sandpaper as you guide..

But i don't know my cleaning job is sufficient (how to check? only finger feeling)

and my the latest clutch setup was...

Clutch Gap(Clearance): 0.3mm
End Play: 0.3mm
clutch spring : Mugen Super hard
weight shim: 1
weight shoe type: red
clutch spring Lock: lock the spring until no more lock. and unlock 3/4 turn

Kitade(japanese Driver) suggest to me this clutch setup.

and i tried your clutch setup in RCTECH

But Clutch was slipped.. and car did not go well.
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Last edited by gansei; 07-02-2007 at 09:09 PM. Reason: add
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:06 AM   #7458
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Originally Posted by gansei View Post
........
But Clutch was slipped.. and car did not go well.

I think this is your problem :

clutch spring Lock: lock the spring until no more lock. and unlock 3/4 turn.

It should be 1.0mm to 1.1mm with double clutch weight ( 2 weight for each of the three clutches on the flywheel ).

Once I tried with single weight, and the engine is revving too much ( but the car did not accelerate spontaneously ----> clutch slipped ).
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:11 AM   #7459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
I think this is your problem :

clutch spring Lock: lock the spring until no more lock. and unlock 3/4 turn.

It should be 1.0mm to 1.1mm with double clutch weight ( 2 weight for each of the three clutches on the flywheel ).

Once I tried with single weight, and the engine is revving too much ( but the car did not accelerate spontaneously ----> clutch slipped ).
But i used the little clutch gap (0.3mm)

when i setup lock the spring until no more lock. and unlock 1 turn.

torque feeling is some weak.


and i tried clutch gap 0.5 ~ 0.8 mm and loose clutch spring before..

But shoe wear out is also same.
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:16 AM   #7460
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i appeared the NEWS on the air!!

the news title : "The Adult who falling in love with Toys"


look carefully yellow my 1/10 car that effort to catch 1/8 scale machine.




http://mplay.sbs.co.kr/news/newsVide...=nw0123c156590#
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Last edited by gansei; 07-03-2007 at 12:31 AM. Reason: mod
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:33 AM   #7461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
i did clean small contact patch of the clutch shoe by sandpaper as you guide..

But i don't know my cleaning job is sufficient (how to check? only finger feeling)

and my the latest clutch setup was...

Clutch Gap(Clearance): 0.3mm
End Play: 0.3mm
clutch spring : Mugen Super hard
weight shim: 1
weight shoe type: red
clutch spring Lock: lock the spring until no more lock. and unlock 3/4 turn

Kitade(japanese Driver) suggest to me this clutch setup.

and i tried your clutch setup in RCTECH

But Clutch was slipped.. and car did not go well.
I have been having the same issue! I have tried everything! I get about 35 minutes worth of runtime and then the shoe is worn down half way!
I have tried everything!
Admitted this was with the same 21 tooth bell(ED).
I attended the past nationals race in Durban, South Africa, RAZZOR's home ground!
Out of desperation and I took a new 20 tooth bell(ED) and used my modeling knife to edge down the holes!
The shoe lasted the 2 qualifiers and the 30 min finals and the clutch did not even started to slip!
Even with the throttle servo starting to play up 10 minutes into the finals and giving up the ghost 3 min before the end of the finals!
Looking at the pics GANSEI has posted the angles of the bells might differ.
I assume that GANSEI was using stock TM clutch shoes! --OR AND --
Looking at the picture of the bell the hole at 2 o'clock was shaving the shoe!

Last edited by casimirsa; 07-03-2007 at 12:39 AM. Reason: correcting spelling mistakes!
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Old 07-03-2007, 12:58 AM   #7462
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Quick Question G4S crew, i wanna know what tip you can give me in filling up the rear diff with oil:

Like right to the top?
Half full?

By messuremnt?

I think its important that there is a right way in doing this, currently using 10,000Weight!

BTW - just got all my new parts, to convert to G4+ and New WASp CRF engine!

Cheers
All
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:20 AM   #7463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casimirsa View Post
I have been having the same issue! I have tried everything! I get about 35 minutes worth of runtime and then the shoe is worn down half way!
I have tried everything!
Admitted this was with the same 21 tooth bell(ED).
I attended the past nationals race in Durban, South Africa, RAZZOR's home ground!
Out of desperation and I took a new 20 tooth bell(ED) and used my modeling knife to edge down the holes!
The shoe lasted the 2 qualifiers and the 30 min finals and the clutch did not even started to slip!
Even with the throttle servo starting to play up 10 minutes into the finals and giving up the ghost 3 min before the end of the finals!
Looking at the pics GANSEI has posted the angles of the bells might differ.
I assume that GANSEI was using stock TM clutch shoes! --OR AND --
Looking at the picture of the bell the hole at 2 o'clock was shaving the shoe!

Looking at the picture of the bell the hole at 2 o'clock was shaving the shoe!

=> this bell is not done hole cleaning job. i used this bell about 6 month ago.

and i got the bell for display use..
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:24 AM   #7464
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Frankie, just fill diff to the level of cross shaft.. I was filling them to the top before and it was leaking heavily.. I read it somewhere here and now no leak at all..

hope this helps..

Asil
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:35 AM   #7465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
Quick Question G4S crew, i wanna know what tip you can give me in filling up the rear diff with oil:

Like right to the top?
Half full?

By messuremnt?

I think its important that there is a right way in doing this, currently using 10,000Weight!

BTW - just got all my new parts, to convert to G4+ and New WASp CRF engine!

Cheers
All
i always put diff oil 100%.

half, 2/3 full etc on.. is not exact!! (only with the unaided eye)


take a look picture.. this way can be 100%
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Old 07-03-2007, 02:52 AM   #7466
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cheers all, ok now i go off and build my new/ well crossed G4S+ LOL

see ya in a few hours
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Old 07-03-2007, 04:40 AM   #7467
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Gansei with the rear fly wings bottom, what hole is best 2 use as there are 2 holes for PIN and what spacers you use and where should i place them?

not sure on the caster settings for the rear flywing arms!!!

cheers for HELp!!!
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Old 07-03-2007, 04:49 AM   #7468
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
Gansei with the rear fly wings bottom, what hole is best 2 use as there are 2 holes for PIN and what spacers you use and where should i place them?

not sure on the caster settings for the rear flywing arms!!!

cheers for HELp!!!
i tried inner hole... i will retest it later..

(outer hole is G4S Stock position... so i tried new position)

spacer is sold by partnum 502287

But you can replace it other aluminum spacers
(inner diameter 3mm, thicker is one 4mm, one 2mm)
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Old 07-03-2007, 06:16 AM   #7469
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Want to win a G4S? Head over to 3hobby.net and look at the news post!

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Old 07-03-2007, 06:43 AM   #7470
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anyone have issues with drive shafts and kfactory lightened drive cups not messing right!

have a problem that with new G4+ rear lower fly wing arms, and the drive shafts not messhing right:

the problem is i have new drive cups in, the pivot ball screws that adjust TOE IN / TOE OUT all the way in as far as i can before they touch arms, and still the standard drive shafts fall out after i fitted the top camber link "keep in mind this is new flash rear hub carries!

I am trying NOW new kfactory CV drive shafts and they seem to fit a bit better, but more worried about the toe tin toe out adjustment left which is miniumal

ill check in later again to see if i fixed the problem, but i think its still not resloved - GANSEI you have this problem beofore?

HINGE PINS on the arms are on the outside location hole, not inner as there is two new settings to adjust to now!!!
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