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Old 06-19-2007, 01:22 PM   #7231
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Hey rmd checked out the KB and its

Thanks for the effort.
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:32 PM   #7232
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http://www.redrc.net/2007/06/balestr...ian-nationals/

Balestri takes the win with G4+
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:49 PM   #7233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor View Post
Hey rmd checked out the KB and its

Thanks for the effort.
Thanks. I'm almost done reading through the thread for a second time. I got through the first 3000 posts pretty quickly and added some additional things to the FAQ. I'm sure I'll add a few more things as I re-read the rest of it.

Cheers
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Old 06-19-2007, 02:00 PM   #7234
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
just inspect OS TZ, mmmmh something tells me its not healthy
Is this engine has not been cleaned since 3 month ago ?

Or is it after one race ?
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Old 06-19-2007, 02:04 PM   #7235
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but i enjoy even if its my 2nd engine in 6 months
THIS is a very good average!!!
Maybe try a different engine, NV or Picco, Picco is good for what you pay.

Have fun
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Old 06-19-2007, 02:34 PM   #7236
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Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
just inspect OS TZ, mmmmh something tells me its not healthy
For one more run, you can use a product called NEVR-DULL Wadding Polish. It should be available at an auto-parts store. It's a non-abrasive metal polish, that will clean up all that residue. You can use it on the outside of the piston sleeve, the top of the piston (try not to catch the top outer edge too much) and the inside the button head. After you're done, it will look pretty good.

Here is the link: http://www.eagleone.com/pages/produc...=1006&cat=5006

Too bad about the pinch, but that's just how it goes...
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:44 PM   #7237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
Hi Kodak Hodak,

Heres a few bits that might help,

1. Shocks, 60wt associated oil, 2 x 1.3mm holes, Blue or Orange TM diapragm. These shocks will be good over the bumps without too much pack.
Currently i used 50wt Losi Shock oil - will try the Associated and i also use the Kfactory Blue diaphrams inside shock with 2 x 1.5 holes drilled in each front and rear shock - shock length 64mm - 65mm

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Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
2. Clutch, no matter what spring/gap you use it needs to come in with a little slip, if it comes in hard with a bang you will never feel like you have traction. I posted a clutch set up a while ago which is good.
currently i run 0.4 to 0.5 clutch gap for a tab slip correct, thou will seek that setup as you mentioned!!! i run yellow spring, 1 weight with black shoe!

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Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
3. Gearing, if the above 2 are correct, and you still lack traction on power, try a longer 1st gear, even 1 tooth smaller spur makes a big difference.
As i have mentioned before running a 52T 1st & 46T 2nd with Standard ED trans gearing and run 2mm split front and rear tires might go back to the 51T see how that goes

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4. Transmitter settings, do you run any negative exponential on the throttle ? Try anything up to - 40%. With this no matter how quick you open the throttle, it will smooth it out.
Expo settings i have always had at 0% - not sure what this stuff does but after what you have said it does make sense, might try it

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Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
5. Rear Camber, I try to run mine so the tyre just cones to the inside, if you go too far, then when the car goes to the droop screws (when on the track) you will have very little tyre contact patch, and it will feel loose. For front camber, small adjustments can make a big difference to the amount of steering in and coming out of the corner.
Over the few months of racing, had good wear evenly running -3.0 camber, now i have tried -4.0 thou with the incorrect dif oil ill need to check this setting with a better diff setup inthe rear! our track is evil on the left side of our cars, as the left side works more than the right!


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6. Sometimes a tyre will not work as well, on a a specific track. If everyone else is running a different tyre then they may be worth trying.
Maybe the Kfactory tire is not so good at our track, thou i have seen Pattojnr visit our track for the state tittles and he ran a 19.7 - keep in mind his car had more power, better modz and i think he better driver than me for sure I also tried some Nitro Shoes Jacco over the weekend, 38 front and 40 rear is all i had...!

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Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
7. The car needs to be in perfect working order, if the outdrives or dogbones are worn then you will never get a consistent car, same goes with droop screws, shock lengths, roll bars not tweaked etc.
Noticed the right rear out drive is terribly worn, the left side is like new HOW COME?

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Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
8. I wouldnt go more than 2.5mm on shortening the rear wheelbase, 2mm will show plenty of improvement. The further you go, the less meat left on the wishbone in cae of an accident.
I was thinking the same when i thought 3mm is a bit much, its not that i dont have enough turn in its more to do with having that rear end planted is the major issues, some on power steer can be lost on our fast sweeper onto straight but if i take a good wide line and hit the Apex correctly it can create some awesome overtaking and fun racing!!!

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Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
9. I would try to get the car working with 85 - 90% lock, that way you can always run a little more lock if need be during a race. If you start with 100% and need more steering in a race, then you dont have that option.......
Ok ill set the car for 85% settings once i have made some mods to front arms, like shorten the front arms for 197mm track width as gansei has shown

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Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
10. With the front width, the narrower you go, the quicker it will turn in, but on corner exit you will get some push. Imagine if the front was 100mm wide and the rear 200mm on pwer the rear would have too much grip...... I nearly always run 2 degrees of toe out (overall) on the front.
Interesting point on the Toe out on the front have had mine set at 0.5 each side to have total 1 toe out, but must try the 1.0 each side to see if this benefitts our track!

Quote:
Originally Posted by muppet racing View Post
There is a set up on the Raceday hobbies forum, with a solid front. Its the easiest car to drive and is quick......With the solid you just have to get used to it, dont expect it roll around a corner like a diff, but IT WILL be better under braking and on power out of corners......

Hope some of this helps,

Good Luck.
Thank you for your time and i look forward tot he next meet with a possible better handling car, even thou my engine is soon gonna die, id like that the car to be handling again!!!
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:50 PM   #7238
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Hi guys!

ive been following this thread ever since i started. really great read i must say.i am still new to this hobby and still need to spend more time at the tracks so i need ALOT of inputs to get everything into place. Is there a compilation of all the mods, set ups, problems-solutions, basically everything i need to know about this great car somewhere?

thanks!
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Old 06-19-2007, 06:52 PM   #7239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALG View Post
THIS is a very good average!!!
Maybe try a different engine, NV or Picco, Picco is good for what you pay.

Have fun
This engine?
http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....ducts_id=12782
$199.00USD
OFNA JLR .12 Red Dot Legal (Picco)
Specifications:

* RPM: 41,000
* CLAIMED HP: 1.6
* CRANKSHAFT: 12mm
* CARB TYPE: Composite SLIDE
* PORTS: 3 ports
* CONSTRUCTION: ABC
* ENGINE SIZE: .12
* TYPE: Rear EXHAUST
* PLUG TYPE: Turbo Plug
* STROKE: 14
* BORE: 3.8
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:04 PM   #7240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
Is this engine has not been cleaned since 3 month ago ?

Or is it after one race ?
for 3 months or more i ran with 2 shims in engine, my mistake right there!!!

only last meet i ran the 0.1mm shim - i think it was bit too late to fix
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:48 PM   #7241
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Muppet - you got PM
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Old 06-19-2007, 11:47 PM   #7242
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Hi guys!

ive been following this thread ever since i started. really great read i must say.i am still new to this hobby and still need to spend more time at the tracks so i need ALOT of inputs to get everything into place. Is there a compilation of all the mods, set ups, problems-solutions, basically everything i need to know about this great car somewhere?

thanks!
Bud good to have you join us
Check out the KB from rmdhawai http://www.nitrokb.com/g4s/
its got a lot of info that has been sorted from this thread and 3hobby.net and its all in one place.
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Old 06-20-2007, 01:50 AM   #7243
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Bud good to have you join us
Check out the KB from rmdhawai http://www.nitrokb.com/g4s/
its got a lot of info that has been sorted from this thread and 3hobby.net and its all in one place.
Hi! razzor...

i know as you live in south africa.

i am curious about south africa circuit's average ground temperature.

is it very hot? and what shore of tire you(or your RC friends) frequently used?


My RC Friends said low shore of tire(35) is good hot ground.

so i am curious it..


i had a weak point in hot weather.

i mostly win a prize in spring,autumn.

But my RC result is Bad in summer..
(korea had distinct 4 seasons)
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Old 06-20-2007, 04:43 AM   #7244
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Bud good to have you join us
Check out the KB from rmdhawai http://www.nitrokb.com/g4s/
its got a lot of info that has been sorted from this thread and 3hobby.net and its all in one place.
Thanks a lot, sir!

more power to team magic!
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Old 06-20-2007, 05:17 AM   #7245
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just inspect OS TZ, mmmmh something tells me its not healthy
Air leak (leaned out with rich carb setting) or dud plug I has a Shit Hyper 12 motor do the same with air leak and down the track detonation with dud plug. Money on air leak.
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