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Old 06-19-2007, 07:04 AM   #7216
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Default MY G4+

MY G4+ !!!!!! HAHAHAHA
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Old 06-19-2007, 07:56 AM   #7217
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just inspect OS TZ, mmmmh something tells me its not healthy
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:08 AM   #7218
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
just inspect OS TZ, mmmmh something tells me its not healthy
inner head and piston head got pockmarked.

maybe plug die cause pockmarked.


you must shining pockmarked inner head for good idling.
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:10 AM   #7219
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
just inspect OS TZ, mmmmh something tells me its not healthy
looks like she was pretty hot man. what fuel were you using ?
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:13 AM   #7220
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Also looks to have had a problem with head clearance. Pock marks could be from too little clearance.
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:15 AM   #7221
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
inner head and piston head got pockmarked.

maybe plug die cause pockmarked.


you must shining pockmarked inner head for good idling.
The OS comes with 2 x shims

i have ran for a few months with both inside, instruction book says 2 shims for 30% nitro

1 shim = 16% nitro

maybe my fuel mix is bad - 10% synthetic 5% castor run AT Red Nitro Fuel 16% content

plug either Nosram 6 or 7
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:19 AM   #7222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
The OS comes with 2 x shims

i have ran for a few months with both inside, instruction book says 2 shims for 30% nitro

1 shim = 16% nitro

maybe my fuel mix is bad - 10% synthetic 5% castor run AT Red Nitro Fuel 16% content

plug either Nosram 6 or 7
OS TZ had 2 shim, one is 0.1mm and other is 0.2mm

16% nitro -> 0.1mm (I also used 0.1mm in FEMCA (Mecamo 16%))

20-25% nitro -> 0.2mm

30% nitro -> 0.3mm

i am using Cosmo 25% and TZ head shim is 0.2mm..

i had no problem in TZ and very fast!!
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:32 AM   #7223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei View Post
OS TZ had 2 shim, one is 0.1mm and other is 0.2mm

16% nitro -> 0.1mm (I also used 0.1mm in FEMCA (Mecamo 16%))

20-25% nitro -> 0.2mm

30% nitro -> 0.3mm

i am using Cosmo 25% and TZ head shim is 0.2mm..

i had no problem in TZ and very fast!!
maye i stuffed up my shims, see me not so good with engines, need to understand them in detail i guess!!!

plus should bloody buy a goood set of vernier calipers
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:36 AM   #7224
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just checked my shim, its 0.1mm its the correct shim for 16% nitro
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:38 AM   #7225
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
The OS comes with 2 x shims

i have ran for a few months with both inside, instruction book says 2 shims for 30% nitro

1 shim = 16% nitro

maybe my fuel mix is bad - 10% synthetic 5% castor run AT Red Nitro Fuel 16% content

plug either Nosram 6 or 7
Maybe the instruction indicated to use 1 shim, but what we look at the engine, is another story, I also recomend to clean your engine more often, this will help to keep it working better and live longer.

do ypu still have some pinch???on the piston and sleeve? how is the rod bearing?to much play? and the inner bearing are they still ok or have a metal to metal sound?
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Old 06-19-2007, 08:50 AM   #7226
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Maybe the instruction indicated to use 1 shim, but what we look at the engine, is another story, I also recomend to clean your engine more often, this will help to keep it working better and live longer.

do ypu still have some pinch???on the piston and sleeve? how is the rod bearing?to much play? and the inner bearing are they still ok or have a metal to metal sound?
Bearings have been replaced - NEW only 1 race meet old

conrod - New same as above

Piston Pin New aswell

P I N C H - not so good, i ran the sucker at 133 degree conversion 271 F

i have lost power, as pinch is now hand turn over, i know its nearly gone, on a low budget atmo, but looking to survive 1 more round untill a pay SerpantD off for engine, then will investigate a new engine for better power and reliablity!

many things to consider, especially engine and fuel with tune - yup i still scatch head and empy my pockets LOL

but i enjoy even if its my 2nd engine in 6 months
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Old 06-19-2007, 09:41 AM   #7227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak View Post
The OS comes with 2 x shims

i have ran for a few months with both inside, instruction book says 2 shims for 30% nitro

1 shim = 16% nitro

maybe my fuel mix is bad - 10% synthetic 5% castor run AT Red Nitro Fuel 16% content

plug either Nosram 6 or 7
15% oil is a bit much but then im not sure what is used for TZ's
In my onroad i use 8/9% oil with great results only mof offroad engines use 12%.
From the looks of your engine id say it definately ran hot and had detonation or at some time blew the plug due to being too lean.
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Old 06-19-2007, 11:54 AM   #7228
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Default Memorable RC Video.

i started RC in 2003/03 with MTX-3.

and i joined First A-main in 2003/11

and two serpent foreigner drivers were invited in Serpent Korea Cup (2004/05)

one driver was "PER-OLA HARD" and other driver... i forgot his name But he
was 710 designer. (maybe Collera?)

i got TQ in first time in serpent korea cup.
(two foreigner serpent driver got 2nd,3rd position in Heat)

so it was very memorable race to me.



But i retired after started A-main 8 minutes.

But!! it was very valuable race to me.. and i did not forget the race.

i got big courage about RC.

the video was focused on My MTX-3

and engine was RB Rody-modified 5ports engine.

http://flvs.daum.net/flvPlayer.swf?vid=csV2n0FuTNo$
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Last edited by gansei; 06-19-2007 at 12:09 PM. Reason: modify
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Old 06-19-2007, 12:38 PM   #7229
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Hi Kodak Hodak,

Heres a few bits that might help,

1. Shocks, 60wt associated oil, 2 x 1.3mm holes, Blue or Orange TM diapragm. These shocks will be good over the bumps without too much pack.

2. Clutch, no matter what spring/gap you use it needs to come in with a little slip, if it comes in hard with a bang you will never feel like you have traction. I posted a clutch set up a while ago which is good.

3. Gearing, if the above 2 are correct, and you still lack traction on power, try a longer 1st gear, even 1 tooth smaller spur makes a big difference.

4. Transmitter settings, do you run any negative exponential on the throttle ? Try anything up to - 40%. With this no matter how quick you open the throttle, it will smooth it out.

5. Rear Camber, I try to run mine so the tyre just cones to the inside, if you go too far, then when the car goes to the droop screws (when on the track) you will have very little tyre contact patch, and it will feel loose. For front camber, small adjustments can make a big difference to the amount of steering in and coming out of the corner.

6. Sometimes a tyre will not work as well, on a a specific track. If everyone else is running a different tyre then they may be worth trying.

7. The car needs to be in perfect working order, if the outdrives or dogbones are worn then you will never get a consistent car, same goes with droop screws, shock lengths, roll bars not tweaked etc.

8. I wouldnt go more than 2.5mm on shortening the rear wheelbase, 2mm will show plenty of improvement. The further you go, the less meat left on the wishbone in cae of an accident.

9. I would try to get the car working with 85 - 90% lock, that way you can always run a little more lock if need be during a race. If you start with 100% and need more steering in a race, then you dont have that option.......

10. With the front width, the narrower you go, the quicker it will turn in, but on corner exit you will get some push. Imagine if the front was 100mm wide and the rear 200mm on pwer the rear would have too much grip...... I nearly always run 2 degrees of toe out (overall) on the front.

There is a set up on the Raceday hobbies forum, with a solid front. Its the easiest car to drive and is quick......With the solid you just have to get used to it, dont expect it roll around a corner like a diff, but IT WILL be better under braking and on power out of corners......

Hope some of this helps,

Good Luck.
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Old 06-19-2007, 01:08 PM   #7230
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Thats good advice muppet ,ill have to note that for my pitside pocket book.
Thanks
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