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Old 05-14-2007, 01:09 PM   #6586
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What parts should I get that seem to break most often?


I was waiting for a crash kit from Sam but thats prob gonna be only after my first race and I wanan be rdy for that race.

so between a-arms, hubs, and bulkheads what else do you see breaking?

BTW TM needs a new translator, some of their descriptions make me laugh when I read them, hey TM I will be willing to revise your discriptions and put them into a more porper english for free
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Old 05-14-2007, 07:13 PM   #6587
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
What parts should I get that seem to break most often?


I was waiting for a crash kit from Sam but thats prob gonna be only after my first race and I wanan be rdy for that race.

so between a-arms, hubs, and bulkheads what else do you see breaking?

BTW TM needs a new translator, some of their descriptions make me laugh when I read them, hey TM I will be willing to revise your discriptions and put them into a more porper english for free
I would get a set of belts and maybe a set of spurr gears for gearing options aswell as spares. Body posts always come in handy too
I'd also get a spare dog bone or two. If you do loose an A arm, hub or whatever, and you run the dog-bones,then you'll lose one.

With your A arms and hubs. Thats probably the bare essentials.
Would be good to get that crash kit going wouldn't it?

Best of luck in your first race. Remember, the G4s has a nice wide sweet spot so relax and enjoy the speed

Menace
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Old 05-14-2007, 07:19 PM   #6588
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
Well the first time I broke, I honestly can't tell you what the hell happened. I didn't see the car hit anything, certainly not any hard impacts, but when I pull the ill handling car in, I had popped the rear camber link, broke my left rear arm, and broke the end of the shock shaft off right at the ball stud! People that were watching me run at the track were like "how did that happen".

Then I manage to repair the shock(using a tamiya shaft and kyosho ball stud) and zip tie/glue the arm back together. So I'm ready to go back out, I'm climbing the drivers stand and get hit by a glitch that sent the car full speed into the boards! And there went my right steering block!

It wasn't a good day for the nitro yesterday.
Wow......very wierd! Seams like something did not want you to race that day or something?!
Still.......once you get your new parts you should be good to go.
Make sure you check your hinge pin for straightness when you install your new arm.

Best of luck

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Old 05-14-2007, 08:51 PM   #6589
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Default G4 is ready to go

Hey Menace, can't wait for St Louis. It'll be like old times eh. Need to talk to you about a couple of things, give me a ring when you get home from work. What a great car to assemble. All the fits were spot on. Can't wait to run her.
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Old 05-14-2007, 09:19 PM   #6590
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Quote:
Originally Posted by watwasdat
Hey Menace, can't wait for St Louis. It'll be like old times eh. Need to talk to you about a couple of things, give me a ring when you get home from work. What a great car to assemble. All the fits were spot on. Can't wait to run her.
Cool. Welcome to the family watwasdat. Good to have you finally aboard!
Did you get all the stuff I sent you, build tips and clutch stuff, through the email?

Will try and give you a call in the morning. Always in a bit of a sleep deprived stupa after work. But I'll try. What time is too early?

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Old 05-14-2007, 09:51 PM   #6591
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I got the IDM Evo 3 for my G4s and was wondering how much you have to shorten the collet to make it work. I only have the 1 collet that came with the engine so I am stuck. I realized after reading earlier that my flywheel nut was just pushing on the collet end and not the flywheel.

Does anybody have any pics of their rear arms after shortening them? I want to shorten the wheelbase but I want to make sure to do it right. How do you make sure you get both arms exactly even?
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:15 PM   #6592
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny9s
I got the IDM Evo 3 for my G4s and was wondering how much you have to shorten the collet to make it work. I only have the 1 collet that came with the engine so I am stuck. I realized after reading earlier that my flywheel nut was just pushing on the collet end and not the flywheel.

Does anybody have any pics of their rear arms after shortening them? I want to shorten the wheelbase but I want to make sure to do it right. How do you make sure you get both arms exactly even?
Hey johnny9s,

I believe you have to shorten it by 1.5mm to get the fit. When you snug down the flywheel nut, make sure the flywheel is secure as the taper is very slightly different, but when tightened down, it should still grip well.
So long as when it's all tight there is none of the collet protruding from the flywheel.
(ie: Take the nut off after you have tightened it down once.
1. The flywheel should stay put on the collet and not be loose.
2. You can check for 'overhang' of the collet from the flywheel.

On cutting down the rear arms for shortening the wheelbase, I don't have any photo's, sorry.
But what you need to do is first check the length of the arm. Where the hinge pin goes through, and make a note of this measurement.
The part of the A arm which will reside toward the front of the car is where you need to trim the material from. Either with a sander, file or whatever tool you've chosen.

When trimming the material off. Try to ensure you keep the end square and flat because when finished this 'cut' end will rest against the baulkhead. Plus it will make it easier to measure.
You can trim between 2 and 3mm off depending on how much wheelbase adjustment you want to have. I've done 2mm. Patto I believe went for 3mm. I would not advise anymore then 3mm though.
Ensure both arms measure the same length when you've finnished.
Keep a note of that measurement as you may want to make spares up as needed. That way you will be ready if you break an arm or something??!

When you have done and ready to re-assemble. You will need some spacers to shim the rear of the arm so as you have very little movement. Remember, the arm should still be free to move smoothly under its own weight, but very little(!) slop.
I use the spacers from the "flash point rear upper link" to shim mine out, but any 3mm bore washers/ shims will do.

I hope this helps. Sorry I don't have a photo's. Maybe someone else will be able to help you out there if your still not sure.

Best of luck.

Menace
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:34 PM   #6593
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I really don't like the slop in my throttle linkage. Has anybody figured out a way to make it a bit more solid?

I hope I don't become a pest by asking so many questions
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Old 05-14-2007, 10:47 PM   #6594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny9s
I really don't like the slop in my throttle linkage. Has anybody figured out a way to make it a bit more solid?

I hope I don't become a pest by asking so many questions
You have no need to worry. Just ask away ! Anything is ok to ask about, alright?

Now, on the throttle linkage. I also noticed (and like you, dislike!) the slop in the linkage.
I found it was from the top swivel horn. The part you connect your throttle and brake rods to.

Now, you know the small flanged bearing which this horn swivels on? Its held in place with a small screw from underneath the top deck. If you can get hold of the same size bearing (I think it's a 5 x 8 x 3mm) only unflanged. Place this extra bearing ontop of the flanged one. By ontop I mean after you have put the flanged bearing in place, then place this extra bearing on top, then secure them with the screw.
This extra bearing sits nicely in the top deck and secures the hole linkage assembly and keeps it nicely secure. Much less slop!

Try it. Just double check the bearing size from the manual but I'm sure it's 5 x 8 x 3mm.

Best of luck.

Menace
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Old 05-15-2007, 01:28 PM   #6595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkseid
Thanks, looks like they have both things I need instock.
Nope...guess I was wrong, they don't have both things I needed in stock.

Anybody know a place where both the steering blocks and the rear arms are in stock?
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Old 05-15-2007, 01:43 PM   #6596
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Pssst... There is a very inexpensive NIB G4S listed on eBay. Lowest NIB price I've ever seen! Seller has good feedback.
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Old 05-15-2007, 04:14 PM   #6597
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace
You have no need to worry. Just ask away ! Anything is ok to ask about, alright?

Now, on the throttle linkage. I also noticed (and like you, dislike!) the slop in the linkage.
I found it was from the top swivel horn. The part you connect your throttle and brake rods to.

Now, you know the small flanged bearing which this horn swivels on? Its held in place with a small screw from underneath the top deck. If you can get hold of the same size bearing (I think it's a 5 x 8 x 3mm) only unflanged. Place this extra bearing ontop of the flanged one. By ontop I mean after you have put the flanged bearing in place, then place this extra bearing on top, then secure them with the screw.
This extra bearing sits nicely in the top deck and secures the hole linkage assembly and keeps it nicely secure. Much less slop!

Try it. Just double check the bearing size from the manual but I'm sure it's 5 x 8 x 3mm.

Best of luck.

Menace
Just to confirm Menace you are correct (as always) it is a 5x8.
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Old 05-15-2007, 08:51 PM   #6598
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I am selling off most of my TM spares so anyone is looking for a deal on some parts shoot me a pm. I'll be posting parts lots in the for sale thread over the next week or so until i get my stock done to a more reasonable level.

Mark
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Old 05-16-2007, 12:00 PM   #6599
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Dont know if i am jumping the gun but rumour has it that Sam "Raceday Hobbies" is going to be the US distributor for TM.
If thats true the you guys can start smiling
Sam's a stand up guy and great to deal with and has a excellent reputation.

If its true then i wish Sam all of the best
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Old 05-16-2007, 01:14 PM   #6600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Dont know if i am jumping the gun but rumour has it that Sam "Raceday Hobbies" is going to be the US distributor for TM.
If thats true the you guys can start smiling
Sam's a stand up guy and great to deal with and has a excellent reputation.

If its true then i wish Sam all of the best
That would be an excellent.
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