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Old 04-29-2007, 07:01 PM   #6271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
if fuel efficiency is bad..

what can i do to increase fuel efficiency?

1. carb ventury inside diameter size reduce.

2. head shim setup? (increase head shim.. and lock the main niddle?)

3. the other tip? (gear ratio change, 2 speed timing adjustment?)


pls give your tip!!!

Use a longer exhaust pressure line to the fuel tank (fron the pipe to the tank). This will also lean your engine at the middle

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Old 04-29-2007, 07:52 PM   #6272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shano
Hey guys just ordered Speed Shot Front Bulkhead System is there anything I need to do to this?I was told that the aluminum top brace has a weak spot and that it should be filled in.What Should I use, how do I do it neatly and where can I get it from?

Use Knead-IT Shano, bloody easy, simple and very very hard once done Rob & I have done this procedure with little fuss.....


been shopping hey, nice work when ya racing again bud?
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Old 04-29-2007, 08:21 PM   #6273
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Maybe you are still in break-in process. Wait until the engine is optimal and you can check again the fuel consumption.

My friends were having such trouble during Pre Femca Race, because they were using brand new engine, Novarossi Plus12 -3CT. They screw up during Qualifying, but in finals their engine made it to complete 17 laps in every 5 minutes for refueling.

How about using longer manifolds, like Novarossi manifold 7 fins and Novarossi EFRA 2630 pipe ?

I wouldn't touch no.1 & 2 like you suggested. Be patience and try again.




jakarta Twin circuit is long highway circuit...

so i worried for expected fuel consumption trouble...

i am using Novarossi EFRA 2630 pipe..

and Novarossi manifold short type (5 pin?)
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:32 AM   #6274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
jakarta Twin circuit is long highway circuit...

so i worried for expected fuel consumption trouble...

i am using Novarossi EFRA 2630 pipe..

and Novarossi manifold short type (5 pin?)
I'm no expert in manifolds....... long vs short manifolds = more fuel effeciency. I heard 7 fins are more fuel economy than 5 fins. You better check with other people.

Your target is 18 laps / 5 minutes. All group A drivers in here can accomplished that, so don't you worry so much. I'm sure you can do 18 laps. I expect top factory drivers can break 19 laps.

I suggest to break in your engines in Jakarta, instead doing it in Korea. Some says weather / climate / altitude ( Jakarta vs. Korea ) play some effects during the break in process. Teddy Syach break-in his engines in Jakarta before going to 2004 IFMAR in Brazil. He must break in again couple set of new engines because the race track in Brazil is located in mountains ( higher altitude, different climate ).

Find Daniz24 as soon as you arrived in the track. Ask for his 2nd opinions. Don't worry so much........ enjoy your trip and don't forget to treat us in Senayan City or Plaza Senayan ( j/k ).
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:44 AM   #6275
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Thumbs up Thanks Patto

Cheers Patto for ya help



Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
Hey Shano, roughen up the inside of the alloy and make sure its clean, if you have a bit of electrical tape, place underneath the 2 smaller holes to be filled.
any 2 part epoxy should be fine, i used a 2 part araldite. by using the tape underneath, you can easily fill to the top of the hole to make it level with the alloy. being clear (what i used) it has gone a yellowish color now. but i have done others with a 2 part epoxy , but in a metal paste. same strength, but it looks better. you can find this available at supa cheap autos. hope this helps
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:49 AM   #6276
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Gansei
I wouldnt worry too much about fuel economy seeing that you will have to do a few installation laps at the track.Take your time on getting a tune thats good for you ,from there you will see how good or bad economy is but dont see a problem as most engines are capable of a 5min heat.If you do have a issue then i am sure others will too.
For head shimming .35/.45 total clearance is ideal for 16% nitro with .45 giving a bit more top end and a smoother idle.
wouldnt worry about ventury as it will limit performance.
if anything ,gearing and clutch would be the key for good performance and economy ,be prepared to try this in practice.

good luck and we rooting for you
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Old 04-30-2007, 03:53 AM   #6277
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Default Hey Frankie

Hey frankie cheers for that.yeah i guess i did some shopping!bought quite a bit.Next race ill be there on 12th may with my pride and joy! Also bought nice air brush so im keen to get another shell done.



Hey guys just ordered new conrod for my LL3 is there anything I should be weary of or need to do when changing it and also will I need to run it in again.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Use Knead-IT Shano, bloody easy, simple and very very hard once done Rob & I have done this procedure with little fuss.....


been shopping hey, nice work when ya racing again bud?
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Old 04-30-2007, 04:50 AM   #6278
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Default STRIPPING 1&2 GEARS

Hi guys hope you all can give some advice here. Ran some race on my local track and after doing about 10 laps noticed that there was no second gear change, bought car in and second gear was stripped down. Changed gear ran again and same happened. On third try both first and second gear was stripped down. Checked to see engine/gear mesh was not aligned but was aligned perfectly. Any suggestions ???????
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:11 AM   #6279
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maybe clutch gets extremely hot and so pinions and they melt teeth of spurs?? just an idea??

Asil
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Old 04-30-2007, 06:34 AM   #6280
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BTW, last sunday was first round of Turkey Championship. During seedings I was in 8th position in 33 cars. I was so happy with my car. I used smallest 1st gear pinion and the largest 2nd gear pinion for my CRF. Car was like a rocket in turns and straight.

For the first qual. I put fresh tires and rear tires had no grip!!! It was impossible to drive the car. Tire shores were the same with the ones in seedings. Car spinned and someone crashed in.. broken rear left a-arm and stripped spurs was the result.. I repaired them and put new set of tires and second qual. was at 11pm! There was so much grip and engine was screaming because of night air It was the first time for me to race at night and I turned 22 laps.. This result put me in D final.

Car was again like a rocket in d final and made c final. In c final I was in 3rd and my exhaust manifold came out It took 2.5 min.s for my wife to put a new spring and I finished 7th so couldn't make b final..

Overall, I was so happy with my car and there are no signs of wear with my belts and other parts..


Later.

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Old 04-30-2007, 06:57 AM   #6281
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I'm just amazed at how some of the wives and girlfriends go to the track with y'all. And to pit for you and make repairs... HA! I'm lucky if my wife lets me go race...
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:02 AM   #6282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msteeple
Hi guys hope you all can give some advice here. Ran some race on my local track and after doing about 10 laps noticed that there was no second gear change, bought car in and second gear was stripped down. Changed gear ran again and same happened. On third try both first and second gear was stripped down. Checked to see engine/gear mesh was not aligned but was aligned perfectly. Any suggestions ???????
Are both gears meshed correctly? Sometimes its difficult to get them right if you change to a different tooth gear... They don't always line up right.
Also, check the mesh on both gears all the way around. Gears may not be perfectly round.
Also, are you using locktite? Engine mounts may be slipping. (just checking)
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Old 04-30-2007, 07:26 AM   #6283
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msteeple
Hi guys hope you all can give some advice here. Ran some race on my local track and after doing about 10 laps noticed that there was no second gear change, bought car in and second gear was stripped down. Changed gear ran again and same happened. On third try both first and second gear was stripped down. Checked to see engine/gear mesh was not aligned but was aligned perfectly. Any suggestions ???????
It could well be your clutch.
Check the end play and clutch gap. Too large a clutch gap will make it bite too hard too fast, putting alot of strain on the teeth. Try to get 0.5mm from fully engaged clutch, not just touching, to fully off (full movement of bell in other words.
Make sure your end play on the clutch bell is minimal (0.1mm)
Also, make sure the screws you are using on your engine mount to engine and to chassis, are not too long. The engine could feel tight in place but slip and loose mesh.
Also check with just the flywheel on, with nut tightened down that the crank has no movement foreward and backward. (Backlash) When tightening the flywheel down, draw the crank foreward to ensure all the backlash has been taken up.

Just a few idea's. Hope they help.

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Old 04-30-2007, 07:38 AM   #6284
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Thanks guys for your input . Currently in am running 0.7mm with a fully engaged clutch. Will shim it down to 0.5mm and see if this helps

Last edited by msteeple; 04-30-2007 at 07:41 AM. Reason: Typo error
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Old 04-30-2007, 08:24 AM   #6285
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Stripped gears can be from incorrect mesh and incorrect clutch setup on both clutch and 2nd gear clutch.This is actually very common on teh Mugens to strip 2nd because there is excessive clearance for the 2speed clutch shoes to housing.

Largest clutch gap to run is .7 but have found .5 to be the ideal setup for me.
endplay is also very important and i use .1mm.usually add shims till clutch bell feels tight and then remove 1 .1mm shim.

as for the 2 speed clutch i remove the grub screw that holds the tension on teh cam and put some super glue in teh hole then reinstall the grub screw and tighten it up til it just starts opening the gap between the shoes.do this on both sides and it should be good.If it has too much play you will hear and feel it when you rev the car of the ground, the car will buck/jump in your hand .This buck/jump is what strips the 2nd spur gear.
note that you have to check the play on teh 2 speed shoe regularly as the cam starts getting loose after a few runs and gives the above mentioned symptoms.
In short keep checking teh working clearances and all should be OK.

As for racing had our club meet this past Sunday.
Murphy was my best buddy again
i didnt completa a single sprint race
1st heat in warm up i clipped a corner and flipped the car on its roof and slammed into a wall breaking teh tank cap.
2nd heat in warm up again i stripped a rear belt.
in 3rd heat i got from 8th to 3rd after 5 corners and had a guy rear end me and broke the lhs upper rear arm.

in the final I started 9th in Bmains and after a few laps took the lead and held the pase for the 20min final and won by 2 laps.
once again car started out great but started to slide a bit at then end ut that could have been me as my fore arms started cramping in the last 5mins ,which was unusual.
Ran 40f and 38 rear tyres with teh diff up front as teh spool was pushing too much when going into the corners.
Ran the Mugen clutch spring with Muppet/Daz's clutch setup and it was great out of the corners.
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