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Old 04-25-2007, 11:39 PM   #6226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawz
Hello guys. Asking here too:

I have a OS 12 TZ that I used when I first assembled the G4S. I........
Well, now I got a Orion CRF, and, on assembling it, .......end play now is very minimal, just a “hair” movement. That is using the collet that came with the CRF, the collet that came with the G4S, even with all this shims, still have a big end paly!
What am I doing wrong ? I did not start the engine, yet, afraid of any mistake I am doing.
..... My kit did not have this shim(looking the UFO clutch kit, on the Kfactoty site, there it is, this shim) Did your kit have this shim?
What you need to take into account is that the 2 collets is not the same dimensions. Even a 0.1mm variation can be a lot to work with. Both my kits did not have the big shim. I fitted a 0.5 shim on my JP and a 0.3 on my RB (Serpent). It just takes some time to match it up and to find a shim that works with the motor, collet and clutch assembly!

My rule of thumb! Every motor with it's own full clutch assembly and there is no issues at the track if you swop motors!
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Last edited by casimirsa; 04-25-2007 at 11:49 PM.
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:33 AM   #6227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawz
Hello guys. Asking here too:

I have a OS 12 TZ that I used when I first assembled the G4S. I used the collar, for the crankshaft, that came with the kit. (engine was new also)
When I did set the clutch, I used all the shims that came on the kit, setting the gap(that time I did, what I think, minimal clutch gap, as I just did the “bell not dragging shoe” test, and stoped shimming when it was spining freely) and then using the remaining shims on the front of the thrust bearing, to have minimal end play. It was very just, I think my first set of bearing went kaput becouse of that.

Well, now I got a Orion CRF, and, on assembling it, all the shims went into the clutch, and I still had a big end play. I had to buy a set of shims(Serpent ones, comes 2 .15 and 1 .30, I think) to add there, so end play now is very minimal, just a “hair” movement. That is using the collet that came with the CRF, the collet that came with the G4S, even with all this shims, still have a big end paly!
What am I doing wrong ? I did not start the engine, yet, afraid of any mistake I am doing.
AND(last one hehe), a document on the Kfactoty site says there should be a bigger shims to place on the crankshaft, before the collar. My kit did not have this shim(looking the UFO clutch kit, on the Kfactoty site, there it is, this shim) Did your kit have this shim?

Hi bud
Just copied my reply from 3Hobby.
Ive made a addition to your pic that was posted and hope it can explain.
Note though that the shims in blue will be used for setting clutch gap and is done with the inner clutch bearing removed.
The shims in red inside the bell is to set end float/freeplay with the inner clutch bearing installed. Also if using a lot of shims in the blue area then maybe put a spacer behind collet on crank.
This is simplest way i can explain.
also have the following link :
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
Attached Thumbnails
Team Magic G4-clutchsetup.jpg  
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:02 AM   #6228
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Horsepower?...speed and velocity at impact

Torque?....amount of money spent on repair's after ....IMO
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Old 04-26-2007, 10:44 AM   #6229
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lol im getting 2 different answers which are they 1.4 or 1.6
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:05 AM   #6230
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OK guys, thankx lots!

I will try to tame this CRF for the next race, taht will be my first race ever.
Hope the other pilots don't kick me out of the stand, I tend to talk alot when I am nervous. When I run slot cars, no one wanted to be by my sides hehe
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:11 AM   #6231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
lol im getting 2 different answers which are they 1.4 or 1.6
Dude, they are messuring at 1.6mm. However, when you squeeze them with your fingers, they feel about the same stiffness as the 1.4 pink springs. The silver stock springs are much softer then the 1.6 Aqua springs. They would actually be a good starting point I would think. But I have never tried them.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:27 AM   #6232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rawz
OK guys, thankx lots!

I will try to tame this CRF for the next race, taht will be my first race ever.
Hope the other pilots don't kick me out of the stand, I tend to talk alot when I am nervous. When I run slot cars, no one wanted to be by my sides hehe
Bud on the CRF engine the key is a hard spring ie: 1.8mm TM black or better would be the Super Hard Mugen spring.
Also the red clutch shoe.
Start with a setting just pat flush on teh tension and run at least 5/6 laps before changing and tightening teh adjustment by 1/4 turn at a time.
Once you find the clutch slipping back it off a 1/4 to 1/2 turn and it should be good to go.
From there you could play with clutch gap starting with .5 for a smooth engagement and go up to .7 for a more punchy feel.

A buddy had a hard time initially setting it up but once we changed to a harder spring everything started working great.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:32 AM   #6233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, they are messuring at 1.6mm. However, when you squeeze them with your fingers, they feel about the same stiffness as the 1.4 pink springs. The silver stock springs are much softer then the 1.6 Aqua springs. They would actually be a good starting point I would think. But I have never tried them.
have to agree with Serpentd's statement above.

Also the std springs seem to work well with a thicker oil and with softer oil is ideal for parking lot type tracks with low to medium grip as it gives a bit of roll and is just right for gaining the traction needed on these tracks.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:42 AM   #6234
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The kit springs are more progressive and although feel soft at first are much firmer than than the salmon(1.4) ones when compressed further.

In my experience they produce more initial roll than the auqa(1.6) ones but still less than than the purple(1.5) spring. According to TM both the silver and auqa springs are 26lbs.

Mark
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Old 04-26-2007, 02:22 PM   #6235
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtveten
The kit springs are more progressive and although feel soft at first are much firmer than than the salmon(1.4) ones when compressed further.

In my experience they produce more initial roll than the auqa(1.6) ones but still less than than the purple(1.5) spring. According to TM both the silver and auqa springs are 26lbs.


Mark
Hi rcrevolution,
Sorry about the confusion on the springs.
What Mark, serpentd and myself are saying is all true.
If you were to check the spring strength then they are very similar to TM Aqua (1.6mm) In otherwords both Aqua and the silver springs would read around 26lb/" strength. And both measure about 1.6mm wire diameter.

But, as serpentd says. When you compress the stock springs they feel softer, even though they rate the same...? It is due to coils per inch. The stock silver ones have their coils closer giving that "progressive" feel about them.

I agree with what serpentd also says. These are an excelent starting point.
Paul Coleman drove his G4s the whole weekend at the recent Las Vegas race using only the stock silver springs. He put his car in the A main ......!!! ......first time out !!!
I think they are good to start, then adjust from there to get the car how you would like.

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Old 04-26-2007, 02:34 PM   #6236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Hi bud
Just copied my reply from 3Hobby.
Ive made a addition to your pic that was posted and hope it can explain.
Note though that the shims in blue will be used for setting clutch gap and is done with the inner clutch bearing removed.
The shims in red inside the bell is to set end float/freeplay with the inner clutch bearing installed. Also if using a lot of shims in the blue area then maybe put a spacer behind collet on crank.
This is simplest way i can explain.
also have the following link :
http://www.kfactoryracing.com/expert...24130345-74975
Hi Razzor,
I was interested to read this post.
Do I understand you correctly here. Do you use the shims behind the thrust bearing, without the rear roller bearing in place in order to get your cluch gap?
Then shim behind the rear roller bearing, once installed again, until you have only the desired end play?
Is that right?

Also, I think this was covered some pages back but couldn't find it again. Do you use the cluch spring adj' nut with the small flange facing outward? Toward the inner roller bearing?
These may sound basic clutch setting questions but it's because there are a couple of ways of setting and adjusting the clutch. Wanted to make sure I had this one right

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Old 04-26-2007, 05:43 PM   #6237
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Everything in razzor's post is correct. And the ridge on the clutch adjusting nut faces away from the flywheel.
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Old 04-26-2007, 07:58 PM   #6238
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Ok.
Thanks Zoom.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:16 PM   #6239
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It is best to file down the ridge on the nut so the spring will lay completely flat on the adusting nut and not have any chance to angle.
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Old 04-26-2007, 11:27 PM   #6240
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G4S'er
It is best to file down the ridge on the nut so the spring will lay completely flat on the adusting nut and not have any chance to angle.
Can you explain what you mean a little more? There is no ridge on the side of the nut that contacts the spring. It is flat. Have a look at the picture above in razzor's post, You can see the ridge faces away from the spring.
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