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Old 04-14-2007, 07:52 AM   #5971
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I am sorry Gansei.....
What problem did you have with your spektrum?

Will you use your friends car in the race tommorow?
I wish you well Gansei.
I hope everything will be ok and you have a great day tommorow.

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Old 04-14-2007, 08:43 AM   #5972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace

I am sorry Gansei.....
What problem did you have with your spektrum?

Will you use your friends car in the race tommorow?
I wish you well Gansei.
I hope everything will be ok and you have a great day tommorow.

Menace
spektrum board organization are two board combined by 10~12 pins

two board are splited by vibration.

then.. no control occurred.


so i put some sponge into specktrum receiver not to split.

i will not use my friend G4S.. only for part... against another accident.

i could not complete engine setting and car setting.

so i must setup my car,engine during the race.
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Old 04-14-2007, 08:51 AM   #5973
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
It is a direct fit to all G4 models. However, you would need a UFO clutch for it to work(clutch bell is UFO size) as well as S-Class gears.

Earlier cars (C and E class) would need an S-Class gear set and a UFO clutch as well an ED transmission. A G4 Evo or a Mongoose came with S-Class gears so would only need a UFO clutch to work with the ED transmission.
THANKS Mike, see you tommorow @ track
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:03 AM   #5974
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
spektrum board organization are two board combined by 10~12 pins

two board are splited by vibration.

then.. no control occurred.


so i put some sponge into specktrum receiver not to split.

i will not use my friend G4S.. only for part... against another accident.

i could not complete engine setting and car setting.

so i must setup my car,engine during the race.
Gansei, sometimes Champion work best under pressure. Best of luck under circumstance.
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:10 AM   #5975
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Gansei, we're after you, we know you'll do your best.. Here's a small tip;

I put receiver cover backwards and put heatshield material on to it against excesive heat from engine;
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:00 PM   #5976
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
spektrum board organization are two board combined by 10~12 pins

two board are splited by vibration.

then.. no control occurred.


so i put some sponge into specktrum receiver not to split.

i will not use my friend G4S.. only for part... against another accident.

i could not complete engine setting and car setting.

so i must setup my car,engine during the race.
Wow bro!! I'm am very bummed out about your car and all. I can't believe that the curcuit board actually split in two. That's sort of what it sounds like, sort of like a sandwich I'm assuming. I understand that vibration is evident in our cars, but to have physical damage accur rather than electrical is unacceptable. Actually both physical and electrical issues are unacceptable. I have heard of more then one issue with the Spectrum. HMMM, I might have to reconsider the Spectrum myself. A least that brand. I have encountered "strange" glitches myself ever since I have started using the Spektrum. I NEVER had issues with either synthisized or crystal systems for years. I might have to email Spektrum or whoever it is that needs to hear these issues. Damn...maybe they need to provide "insurance" for our cars if we use their system. And I mean FULL COVERAGE. Accidents like this aren't cheap plus time consuming. Sorry to go off here Gansei and everyone. Just pisses me off that you have to race under a more stressful condition now. It's difficult to get the car tuned in on such late notice. Especially after having to rebuild it form another car! That means tear down one car for parts and then build your car. What a pain in the ass!

Well Gansei my metal friend...I would highly reccomend throwing in some OLD Metallica and cranking it up to help get rid of some of that frustration and stress. I usually play Slayer myself when I'm stressed out like this. Play "Kill 'em All" the entire CD!! This will help my friend.

I wish you the best of luck bro regardless. You can still pull this off as you are one of the most talented drivers I have the pleasure to know. I also hope that you have a more excperienced pit man this round. Keep your chin up, take 15 minutes to meditate if you have time and it will all come together my friend. Then race your ass off! Don't forget to have fun while you are passing the competition! It is VERY easy to get caught up in the hussle and bussle of racing, and the FUN factor still has to remain first. If it doesn't then it just became a job more then a hobby. A pretty serious hobby to lots of us...but seriously FUN!!!! I'll stop now. You know what you need to do bro, just go out and do your best, that's all you need to do. Again good luck and I will be praying to the race Gods for you. Be sure to keep us informed and updated as you always do bro. Take care my friend, and will be looking for your update. Later bro!!!
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:44 PM   #5977
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I am putting together my order for my G4S from raceday hobbies today. So far I am ordering the G4S, IDM Evo 3, (not sure which pipe to get), ED transmission, 900mah reciver pack.

Is there anything else I should order? I have asked Sam for a perimter or crash kit.

Can't wait to get the kit and hit the road with Nitro again.
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:48 PM   #5978
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Default Steering Upgrade from G4 - one more time. Sorry.

Okay, I've done a lot of looking from back several posts and I also asked Sam and after all that I am still a little confused. Sorry Sam but you told me to ask the guys in the forum also.

Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?

If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.
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Old 04-14-2007, 01:53 PM   #5979
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny9s
I am putting together my order for my G4S from raceday hobbies today. So far I am ordering the G4S, IDM Evo 3, (not sure which pipe to get), ED transmission, 900mah reciver pack.

Is there anything else I should order? I have asked Sam for a perimter or crash kit.

Can't wait to get the kit and hit the road with Nitro again.
You good on tires? I would suggest 1 set of K Factory tires if you don't have this brand. That will only run you an extra $18 bucks or so. Also get the 1.8mm Black clutch spring K1497-14. I would also suggest the G4 Stainless Steel 2 Speed shoe cam K14100. I've heard of quit a few issues with the kit one. That's about all I can think of. You might want to get the parts to make a front diff for the ED tranny if you think you will go that route. That should just about do it for now. As far as a pipe, I would go with the Skyline 12 plus if he has that. You will LOVE this pipe! Dude, I just checked and he has that pipe. I would recommend that one for sure, unless Sam says different. This pipe seems to improve every type of .12 engine out there. Good price as well. Good luck!
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Old 04-14-2007, 02:01 PM   #5980
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Thanks for the reply. I forgot that I am odering K Factory tires. I was thinking 2 sets of front 38's, 2 sets or rear 38's and 2 sets of rear 40's. I am racing in a parking lot road course. Traction is med at best and the course is a mix of technical and speed. In the summer it can get up to 90 degrees but it is usually around the low to mid 80's (Vancouver BC). Will these tires be fine or should I look at other shore ratings?
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:03 PM   #5981
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny9s
Thanks for the reply. I forgot that I am odering K Factory tires. I was thinking 2 sets of front 38's, 2 sets or rear 38's and 2 sets of rear 40's. I am racing in a parking lot road course. Traction is med at best and the course is a mix of technical and speed. In the summer it can get up to 90 degrees but it is usually around the low to mid 80's (Vancouver BC). Will these tires be fine or should I look at other shore ratings?
Sounds like we race under the same conditions. We do use a light coat of sugar water on the track and that helps some. I have found that 38's are perfect. It sounds like what you are ordering is perfect. It hasn't been over 75 degrees here yet, so the 40's my work well at the higher temps. Sounds like you are good to go! You will really like the K Factory tires on this type of surface. Glad to have you abaord bro!! You will love this car and set up that you are putting together. If you have any questions, just ask away!
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Old 04-14-2007, 04:15 PM   #5982
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Thanks SerpentD!!

I am just waiting for Sam to send me my invoice now and I will be good to go. This thread and the people posting in it are one of the big reasons I decided to get the G4S.
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Old 04-14-2007, 05:07 PM   #5983
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
Okay, I've done a lot of looking from back several posts and I also asked Sam and after all that I am still a little confused. Sorry Sam but you told me to ask the guys in the forum also.

Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?

If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.
best thing to do is disassemble the front end. place the new steerng on the chassis mark where it needs to be from the top of the chassis, then make a small center punch. the hole in the chassis is not in the correct place. if you do it this way leave your front bulkheads on and axle in. assemble the bell crank steering with ball cups and all so you can work on clearance. as for the top plate, the 5th body post is also not the corect hole, and a spacer is required to hold the top of the steering post so the bearing doesnt fall out. i did this to my Mongoose and it improved the steering alot. so take your time and make sure its right. if you ever want to run a front diff you need clearance, and have it in the right place. hope this helps
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Old 04-14-2007, 09:27 PM   #5984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YR4Dude
Okay, I've done a lot of looking from back several posts and I also asked Sam and after all that I am still a little confused. Sorry Sam but you told me to ask the guys in the forum also.

Anyways, I know that I should get the conversion kit that would have all the parts I need to do the conversion. Here's my question, on my G4 C I have the top brace 5th body post hole that lines up with a hole on the bottom of my chassis. This seems like the likely place for the steering pivot, however in looking at the size of the steering crank, it looks like there would be clearance issues with the front pulley. Now I was looking at detailed pictures of the G4S, and it looks like the steering pivot is actually about 5-8mm behind the 5th body post hole, if so then that would explain the clearance issues but what about the hole on the bottom my chassis? Do I need to drill a new hole on the chassis to accomodate this mod?

If someone has done this mod successfully, please explain.


i have done this conversion on a stock C - Class G4. yes u do have to drill the hole in the chassis.there is a hole relocater for the 5 body post and you can judge from it where to drill the chassis hole..you also need to counter sink the hole so screw doesn't stick out past bottom of chassis..it's pretty simple but there are NO instruction's with package..but you will diffently like the result's..i'd post pic's but i have since changed to the carbon fiber chassis..that was a BIG inprovement for me...it'let's chassis remain flat after hard crash because of the carbon fiber..it allow's some flex ..i'm not the best driver and here they have board retaining wall's , so it get's alittle tough on your car.....good luck w/conversion...hit me up if you have problem..
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:55 PM   #5985
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From one dude to another, thanks S10.

Pattonjr - thanks also.
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