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Old 04-09-2007, 06:46 AM   #5806
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Well I've completed the rebuild of the G4S over the weekend, and added the ED transmission, speedshot front end, 4 mm chassis, alloy middle and servo mount and Kfactory 2 speed cam. I was ready to toss it in but a PM from Razzor convinced me to give it another go. The win by Daz was also well timed - I've yet to see though whetehr the car suits my driving style (or lack of)

I replaced the orange shock bladders with the blue - they are supposed to be the same but I did find the blue to be a much better fit. I tried gluing the bladder to the eyelet but they would not stick.

I've gone for the following setup:

Front:
60w shock oil
Two hole pistons, one drilled to 1.5mm
1.4mm springs (pink)
2mm Castor
0 droop (measured with droop gauge)
5.0 mm ride height
Lower roll centre
No sway bar
1 degree toe in
Locked one way
Shock mount 3rd hole from the top, outer bottom

Rear
60w shock oil
Two hole pistons, one drilled to 1.5mm
1.5mm springs (purple)
4mm droop (measure with droop gauge)
5.5 mm ride height
Upper, upper roll centre
90 degree sway bar
2 degree toe in
Diff, 10k oil
Shock mount 3rd hole from the top, outer bottom

Transmission
Standard ED - 16/51 & 21/46
Orange clutch spring, 1 weight, 0.5 gap

I'm planning on 40 rears and 37 fronts, but if my tire truer turns up I'll try 37's all round. If it has too much steering I'll add back the front sway bar at 0 degrees.

I did notice however that after setting the droop at 0 front and 4 rear with the droop gauge, the front has more droop than the rear when you lift the car up. Not sure whether this is normal, but I'll keep an eye on it at the track on Sunday.

I'm hoping this will at least give me something easy to drive at the start, with some tuning options up my sleeve. I've considered some drag brake as well to help with the turn in - the track is an old tennis court so it is pretty tight with medium to low grip. I hope this set up will give me something easy to drive with a few options up my sleeve if it is totally off the planet.

Cheers,
Dave T
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:57 AM   #5807
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Teehomo, the only thing I can see that might make your car hard to drive is the harder rear spring than front. See how you go but keep this in mind as a first option if you find the car twitchy.
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:57 AM   #5808
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Hi razzor, I'm using std. transmission and will give your advice a try..

Thanks..

Asil
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Old 04-09-2007, 06:59 AM   #5809
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G4S Manual:

I spoke with Team Magic about the manual and it will not be available online. It is, however, available on request through the team magic website. Send them an email and they will email it back to you (it is a large file though 7MB).

If anyone wants to order one then the part number is 502273.
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:01 AM   #5810
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Team Magic driver Darren Johnson win's Spanish EFRA GT.....

congrat's to him and the G4S community...
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:06 AM   #5811
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
Teehomo, the only thing I can see that might make your car hard to drive is the harder rear spring than front. See how you go but keep this in mind as a first option if you find the car twitchy.
Thanks Zoom, I'll keep that up my sleeve as well.

Cheers,
DT
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Old 04-09-2007, 07:32 AM   #5812
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teehomo
I've gone for the following setup:

Front:
60w shock oil
Two hole pistons, one drilled to 1.5mm
1.4mm springs (pink)
2mm Castor
0 droop (measured with droop gauge)
5.0 mm ride height
Lower roll centre
No sway bar
1 degree toe in
Locked one way
Shock mount 3rd hole from the top, outer bottom

Rear
60w shock oil
Two hole pistons, one drilled to 1.5mm
1.5mm springs (purple)
4mm droop (measure with droop gauge)
5.5 mm ride height
Upper, upper roll centre
90 degree sway bar
2 degree toe in
Diff, 10k oil
Shock mount 3rd hole from the top, outer bottom

Dave T
after some testing, mainly as i raced, i found the lower front roll center to take some steering away from the car. i do think the middle setting (longer arm) is a good starting point. on this note i have drilled both holes in the front pistons to 1.5. i have also shortened the wheelbase at the rear by 3mm, but i would recommend 2mm as i now have too much steering, but i can run a harder front tire and spring to compensate. i also agree with ZOOM, switch the springs around, i never have run a softer spring on the front than the rear, just a thaught.
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Old 04-09-2007, 08:04 AM   #5813
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Did you catch that pm I sent you zoom!

Cheers
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Old 04-09-2007, 09:32 AM   #5814
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Head over to 3hobby.net now, there's a video of the EFRA GP just held in Spain. Victor PELAEZ TQ'ed with a G4S and then Darren Johnson won the race with his G4S.
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Old 04-09-2007, 10:09 AM   #5815
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Have a updated/modified version of Darrens Johnsons setup sheet in excell.
If anyone interested give me a pm.Thought i could post it here but unfortunately cant.

Great way to record changes at the track instead of using setup sheet and wasting setup sheets.Once you have a good setup then save info to setup sheet.

Also congrats to Muppet aka Daz aka Darren Johnson on a awesome result in Spain ,taking the win after qualifying 4th and also to Victor Pelaez for TQ with a G4s.Victor finished 8th in the final.
Need to call Darren the "Rain Doctor" with his wet weather expertise

Still the G4s seems to be underdog with only 4 cars entered in a field of 52 drivers.So terrific result with 2 G4S cars in the A-main.
Yeah........I'd be interested in seeing that Razzor. And thankyou for the offer!

If you want to send it via E-mail, my addy:
[email protected]

Tony (Menace)
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Old 04-09-2007, 10:18 AM   #5816
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Congradualtions to G4S driver Darren Johnson for his win in Spain! Remeber for USA guys, that Darrens setup is for untreated tracks and of course in Spain cold wet weather. So use the setups when on the same type tracks. Here in the west, that doesn't occur very often! In the high 90's this week I believe!!! Yikes!! lol
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Old 04-09-2007, 10:20 AM   #5817
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As they say haste makes waste.. sorry for the spelling, congradulations and remember are spelled this way!
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Old 04-09-2007, 11:48 AM   #5818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
Hey SerpentD I have a question, when you are doing a fade, how do you coat the fade area?


Like lets say silver to white, you do silver fade the middle and go to white
when u do a second coat would u just do everything all white or silver? or do u have to repeat that fade at the same spot for the duration of the coats?
Dude, how did you come up with such a tricky question? Just kidding. I actually had to think how I would do the silver into white. I don't think I've ever done that combe. But regardless, every combo can be done. I the silver to white case, I would probably start with silver first, because it has all those little silver specs that spread out with the overspray. However, if you didn't want those little specs, then start with white, but I would start with silver because it would make a smoother fade easier. What makes this sound tricky is that both of these colors are used for backing.

Lets say that we are doing a fade on the whole car, front silver and rear white with the fade in the middle. I would start out with the silver in the front and work back towrds the fade. I would do about 2-3 coats of silver but making sure that I have it thicker in the front and gradually get thinner towards the middle of the car where the white will meet and fade. Silver can be a weird color to work with sometimes. I would hold the body up to the light or put like a white towel under the silver after my 2-3 coats and see when it's ready for the white. When it looks ready, just do the entire car white after that with like 2-3 coats. The white will enhance the Silver where it starts to get a little thinner and should blend perfectly.

The main trick here is to let the silver slowly build up good in the front and spread a little with the overspray. It's a bit hard to explain, I wish I could show you instead. But you can control this with the angle you hold your spray can or airbrush.

Now if you were to do this with flames or something and had to add some other colors around it. I might back it with 2 coats of silver over the white just to prevent any "show through". You know? Sometimes white isn't opaque enough to prevent some colors to show through. So I would use the silver here to make sure.

I would get a practice strip of lexan and try it on there first so you get an idea of how much silver you will need to lay down first. Just practice a bit before you commit to the body. I hope this sort of helped bro. I wish I could do those cool vids like Gansei. Maybe I will get out my digital video camera and try this out. But until that day comes, just ask away and I will try my best to explain. Good luck bro!
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Old 04-09-2007, 12:00 PM   #5819
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G4S'er
As they say haste makes waste.. sorry for the spelling, congradulations and remember are spelled this way!
Sam, dude...what are you talking about here bro??? I know I'm a bit out of it, but you are really messing with my brain here bro!

Dude, by the way it looks as though I will be seeing you in Vegas next week! SWEET! Don't forget to bring lots of K Factory tires. Probably 40's and 42's. Maybe even some 45's. Usually that Vegas track with this many drivers makes it pretty sticky. Also bring the GQ's as I think this might be the tire of choice at this track. Not too sure. Traction roll sticky! Have a SAFE trip bro. I'm not sure if your driving or flying, I'm going to drive to this event. Don't ask me why. My only concern is I-70 heading over the mountains. It can be beautiful one day and total blizzard the next this time of year. Hopefully this last week of snow will be the last! Oh yeah...you might want to bring one of those EVO-3 IDM's for me as well. Might need to get one form you. I will try and throw you an email later. See ya my friend! Later
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Old 04-09-2007, 12:08 PM   #5820
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thanks, well I got my servos on the car and im happy to see the steering doesnt bind anymore.


all i need now is a picco plug for my engine and I can start it up for the first time.
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