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Old 04-02-2007, 11:06 AM   #5641
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Thanks NiMo. Much appreciated. I'm gonna make that note in the manual as well.
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Old 04-02-2007, 12:54 PM   #5642
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OLAH my fellow G4S crews, familly, friends, dudes, bro's and other!!! OK all, here is how my 2nd race day went with my mini beast! Sorry for not getting it on here sooner as I was DEAD tired after raceing and driving all day. Remember my track is about 2.5 hours away. OK, lets get started here. We all remember my first race where It was insanely frantic because of those little ball studs that kept ripping out of the cool aluminum servo saver, plus was running on the TIGHTEST track in nitro car history with NO steering. Well this weeks track was setup much more normal for nitro. A few tight sections but mostly a fairly smooth and flowing track with a good straight and full sweeper at the end. Our traction is low to medium and pretty bumpy. But it's an older parking lot, so about what you would expect. I'm not bitchin because at least it's a track to go race. And even it being 2.5 hours away I am VERY fortunate we have this track. OK, sorry for getting side tracked. Anyway, for this race I had gone through the entire car and changed basicaly the entire set up, including shock pistons, oil, springs and mounting position front and rear, 2mm cut off of rear arms (shorter wheel base), different front arm pin location with speed shot front end, totally different alignment, different engine, different gearing and clutch set up... etc. The whole nine yards so to speak.
First time out and the car felt pretty good. I started with GQ 40's all around and after a few laps new this wouldn't work, I needed more traction and steering. So I threw on some 38 KFactory fronts...but then the car felt too inconsistant. So I ultimately went for 38's all the way around. Good traction and good enough steering. I wanted to try 35's in the front but then practice was over...so stayed with the 38's. Qualifier #1 went very good. I ended up setting the pace for everyone and got first in this heat. I was like no shit! I really didn't feel that fast. But there is 9 more cars in the next heat so maybe I was with the slow guys, so I waited for that heat to end and sure enough I had TQ at that point. I was like cool man, my car is doing pretty good. I left the car alone and set a faster pace the 2nd heat out. Still haveing TQ. Then I wanted to try and find some more steering plus just play with the car a bit. I really only had about 3 minutes to make any changes because there were only 4 different heats for the day. I raced in two because of my 1/8th scale and had to marshal in two. So I had 0 time to do anything. The only adjustment I tried was changing the position of the rear shock. But changing it one hole made me a bit slower shown by lap times. On heat number 3 I ended up loosing a wheel nut on the last 30 seconds or so of the 5 minute heat. So I hobbled it around the track with 3 wheels. Hell, I was impressed with the handleling on 3 wheels as I was keeping up with guys. Well I ended up loosing TQ on the 3rd heat by about 1 second. Which doesn't trip me out, since I was just so happy that the car was working pretty good. I did have some engine issues still, but nothing too major. So I started in 2nd position in the A main. I was happy.

OK now the main. I really wanted to put on a fresh pair of meats for the race, but I didn't have time to true any up plus I don't even know if I have any more KFactory 38's. So I left everything the same. Like I stated I started in 2nd position. The TQ dude is one of those fast guys at the track. We were missing our fastest guy, Sal DeFazio whom is a sponsored driver for Kyosho. He is our ULTRA fast guy we all compare our times to. He was gone due to illness in his family. I was sort of tripping out that I was 2nd because I feel I have a lot to do still to make my car fast. It didn't feel as good as I wanted it to. But that's good, because when I do get it set up for my driving style I will be that much faster. OK, the race started out awesome. Once I heard the "Tone", I was off. I was in first position immediately as I launched way past the TQ dude and already had a 2 second lead. The pressure was on though. This was a 20 minute race. Anyway right after my first pit stop I flamed out on the track. That damn engine. Well this little flame out put me in like 4th or so. I managed to pass that dude and get to 3rd. But about half way through the race my tires felt a little greasy-like and my engine was loosing power. I definitely need to tune this motor differently, it's really got me stumped. Anyway at this pont I was about 10 seconds behind the leader and 2nd place. With the combination of power loss and tires acting up, I just couldn't catch them. So we finished in that order. I got 3rd in the A main.

Overall I was very happy with the car. I was not happy with my engine, or maybe my engine tuning. Not too sure yet. I still want more steering, but at least the car was manageable this time around. I owe this to everyone on here helping me out with my chassis tuning, special thanks to Patto, Hodak and Gansei and Razzor! But I want to thank everyone, because of our "Family", I was able to get my car where it is in such a short amount of time! Thanks EVERYONE!!!!!

My next race is in 2 weeks on the 15th, and then I might be off to Vegas on the 18th for the Mugen Gran Prix. WOO HOOO!!!!
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Old 04-02-2007, 12:55 PM   #5643
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Finished my mugen stabilizer conversion.
Hey razzor, I see you are using the carbon brake support piece, and the alu. brake lever. When I did mount that, I had to put a shim, and there were some 2 mm. play yet. Did you put that with no play, or not a problem to have that there ?
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:21 PM   #5644
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Rawz I used about 4 .3mm tamiya 3mm shims to take out play.I did it mainly because I noticed that the flanged bearing was moving around a lot and started to make the hole it located in bigger.
Works like a charm know.

SerpentD good show bud !!!
Guess theres still some teething problems for us all
Must say thats a good result seeing that its your 2nd race in 200mm class.
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:22 PM   #5645
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lets play a little game and find typos or messed up things in the G4S manual.

I have 1

on the last page for building the car, it said "if you followed these steps your model is now ready to run"

well if you look at the two pictures right over it, it clearly shows the throttle linkage isnt even hooked up to the servo



also on page 29 on the throttle linkage, it shows the 2 allen grub scews that are suposed to hold the cylinder dual collar, but the dual collow isn't there! there are just 2 grub screws floating there and to make it funnier the entire wire is missing, lol, everything from the cup that hooks to the engine to the end collar is floating there lol
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:25 PM   #5646
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noted
Guess we could get TMEdith to take notes and improve the manual
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:25 PM   #5647
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace
Hey Serpentd......... how did you get on today?

We'll have to make that "meet-up" happen one day.
How far are you from Nebraska?
Don't laugh too hard if it's an idiotic Q....... there's a 'Heart-of-America' there soon. Not sure when. But I thought I'd ask.

Interested to know how you did today though.

Menace
DUDE...Hell yeah on the "meet up"! I forgot about the Nebraska race. I think I am only like 600 miles or so away from Lincoln Nebraska. So that would be PERFECT! It's probably only an 8 hour drive or so I believe. We need to check into this race so we can start preping now for it. That would be way sweet my British American friend!

My racing day went very well other then engine issues. This can be corrected easily though with a NEW MOTOR!! Yeah Baby!!

Hey Menace, aren't you getting one of the new IDM's soon from Sam? I would be very interested in looking into that engine. I need to email Sam back, because I asked him about one and I know he replied...but I've been so busy with crap, I haven't had a chance to email him back.

So bro, lets try and plan on this Nebraska trip. I will do some research on it and also check out some hotels in the area. This would be a kick in the ass to hook up and race together. Talk soon my friend!
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Old 04-02-2007, 01:42 PM   #5648
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcrevolution
lets play a little game and find typos or messed up things in the G4S manual.

I have 1

on the last page for building the car, it said "if you followed these steps your model is now ready to run"

well if you look at the two pictures right over it, it clearly shows the throttle linkage isnt even hooked up to the servo



also on page 29 on the throttle linkage, it shows the 2 allen grub scews that are suposed to hold the cylinder dual collar, but the dual collow isn't there! there are just 2 grub screws floating there and to make it funnier the entire wire is missing, lol, everything from the cup that hooks to the engine to the end collar is floating there lol
Dude, those are good. My favorite is on page 27 where they are explaining the thrust bearing washers. It says..."The inside washer should be larger (5.2mm) and inside washer is smaller (5.0mm)". HMMMMM? How many insides are there?

By the way, the larger 5.2mm washer goes next to the bearing on the clutch bell. The word "inside" sort of messes me up because if you put the entire thrust washer assembly on the collar first, then to me the inside bearing is actually the smaller one. So it's all in an individuals perspective of what "inside" is. Either that, or my brain just works different. Which many have pointed out to me that it does!
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:01 PM   #5649
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, those are good. My favorite is on page 27 where they are explaining the thrust bearing washers. It says..."The inside washer should be larger (5.2mm) and inside washer is smaller (5.0mm)". HMMMMM? How many insides are there?

By the way, the larger 5.2mm washer goes next to the bearing on the clutch bell. The word "inside" sort of messes me up because if you put the entire thrust washer assembly on the collar first, then to me the inside bearing is actually the smaller one. So it's all in an individuals perspective of what "inside" is. Either that, or my brain just works different. Which many have pointed out to me that it does!
I should have said that better
I meant inside as the clutch bell side and not the bolt side.
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:31 PM   #5650
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Rawz I used about 4 .3mm tamiya 3mm shims to take out play.I did it mainly because I noticed that the flanged bearing was moving around a lot and started to make the hole it located in bigger.
Works like a charm know.

SerpentD good show bud !!!
Guess theres still some teething problems for us all
Must say thats a good result seeing that its your 2nd race in 200mm class.
Thanks bro! Yes I still have some little Gremlins to work out. Motor of course, but I was running into some strange issue with the brake as well. I usually like to have a bit of drag brake, but when I used this after morning practice, I noticed that the brake was sort of locking up and acting strange near the neutral setting. I sprayed some "Nitro" cleaner on the brake area and that helped. But then it would come back. So I finally just backed off the pinion gear as you have Razzor and had to run with no drag brake and a very small amount of brakes overall. I need to take it apart and investigate.

I mention this only because I see you guys talking about shimming stuff around the brake area. Never mind dude. I thought I had that carbon piece, but nope. Shucks, I like the way that looks too. Oh well, Something I can just add to the list.
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:48 PM   #5651
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
i participated the 2nd kawahara cup in korea on today

the ground grip is too bad, Because it comes heavy rain in yesterday .. and yellow sand come from china on today.

But i am strong in bad grip, I got TQ position in Heat. ^^

the picture of my G4S sbows that yellow sand was terrible!(after first exercise race)


in A-main Final.. i take a top position until first fuel time.

after first fuel time, my G4S flamed out. --;;

so my ranking fall to 4th.

But i get top postion again after several minute.

in late A-main final, my G4S chassis drags the ground because of too low height setup.

so i had a critical moment. But my pitman help me very fastly.

so i can win the race dangerously.


i changed to 3mm chassis from 4mm chassis to give more roll.

and changed diff oil 1 step more soft.


you can see A-main Final Movie in this site

"http://tvpot.daum.net/clip/ClipViewB...&scrapable=yes"


the third kawahara cup will be held after 2 weeks in korea.

the Kawahara japan driver "Yuruki, Hukuwara" etc on.. about 10 japan racer will participate.

of course, i will race with japan driver. ^^
DUDE!!! Congats my Heavy Metal friend!!! I can't even tell you how proud I am of you bro! You are driving against some very good talent out there. I recognize some of those names that you posted. You need to pat yourself on the back for doing so awesome in the Kawahara Cup. You are indeed the man Gansei!! All I can say is keep up the great work and keep having fun!! Take care my friend...and thank you again for helping me get my car squared away and finally handling as good as it is. You are a huge asset to us all bro! Best of luck to you in the 3rd round of the Cup!!
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:50 PM   #5652
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I wont be running drag brake again .I stripped car and noticed that the bulkhead were the button locates that presses the brake pads.It was melted from excessive heat from the brakes also the brake shaft was worn bad as well were it pushed on the button.
Im using real brake pads and vented ED disc brake.

I also noticed that the silicone got stretched on the brake rod and used cap screw ally washers to hold the silicone pipe in place.
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:09 PM   #5653
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Hey Crew,

Well havent been on for a while, flat out at work thou looking back at the thread i must say:

Well done GASCAr - nice paintjob cant wait to scratch it for ya LOL just kidding...!

Gansei - your race in 2nd Round well done man looks like you had a nice easy drive and was out of trouble most of the final race.....!

pattojnr - well looks like ya got those little gremlins still thou hell nice come back and to still hold a respectable position. Look forwad seeing ya race in Adelaide in May

SerpantD - the man friend buddy - luv ya long posts its well worth the read for sure, WEL DONE MAn - you will get that tune soon and it will be quicker than NASA Rocket's

Looks like all is having fun and sure hope to hear more soon...!

Peace Out
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:38 PM   #5654
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Hey Crew,

Well havent been on for a while, flat out at work thou looking back at the thread i must say:

Well done GASCAr - nice paintjob cant wait to scratch it for ya LOL just kidding...!

Gansei - your race in 2nd Round well done man looks like you had a nice easy drive and was out of trouble most of the final race.....!

pattojnr - well looks like ya got those little gremlins still thou hell nice come back and to still hold a respectable position. Look forwad seeing ya race in Adelaide in May

SerpantD - the man friend buddy - luv ya long posts its well worth the read for sure, WEL DONE MAn - you will get that tune soon and it will be quicker than NASA Rocket's

Looks like all is having fun and sure hope to hear more soon...!

Peace Out
Kodak
Dude, when the heck are you racing again??? Is your month off thing comming to an end already? When are you hitting the asfault bro!?!?!? Also, how is the build going with your bro's car? I would imagine that the beast is ready to go, ya? Dude, let us know when you finally get to run again. It's just not the same without your long posts as well my friend. I hope things are going good for you, keep us posted when you finally get to run again. Talk soon my friend!
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:22 PM   #5655
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
I wont be running drag brake again .I stripped car and noticed that the bulkhead were the button locates that presses the brake pads.It was melted from excessive heat from the brakes also the brake shaft was worn bad as well were it pushed on the button.
Im using real brake pads and vented ED disc brake.

I also noticed that the silicone got stretched on the brake rod and used cap screw ally washers to hold the silicone pipe in place.
Wow! That doesn't sound so good. A few questions if I may...

1) Did you turn down the brake on the transmitter? If so, how far?
2) How much drag was applied? If you pushed the car by hand with the tx/rx on and the engine off, how much did the car move?
3) Were you running on a technical track or sweeping track?
4) About how many times per lap were you off-throttle?
5) How many times per lap did you have to press the brake?
6) About how much throttle did you have to apply before the brake was disengaged? (i.e. 1/8, 1/4)

Thanks in advance
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