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Old 03-23-2007, 12:17 AM   #5446
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i ordered mine from US, cost US270, it is honeycomb, but not aluminum.
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Old 03-23-2007, 01:36 AM   #5447
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G4+

Anyone noticed this?

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Old 03-23-2007, 01:49 AM   #5448
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guys, what's that car in K-factory hub ad?? at the end of the row, it's G4+ or something like that ???

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Old 03-23-2007, 03:01 AM   #5449
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haha, knew someone would beat me to it.
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Old 03-23-2007, 10:47 AM   #5450
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Hey guys, have any of you tried 100K diff oil in your front diff? I am currently using 50K front and 30K rear. When I was running my Serpent 720, I had 100K in front and 30K in the rear. It really worked well in the Serpent. Just curious if I should give this a shot or not. I'm thinking that this would give me more overall steering. What do you guys think?? Thanks all. Later!
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Old 03-23-2007, 11:09 AM   #5451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Hey guys, have any of you tried 100K diff oil in your front diff? I am currently using 50K front and 30K rear. When I was running my Serpent 720, I had 100K in front and 30K in the rear. It really worked well in the Serpent. Just curious if I should give this a shot or not. I'm thinking that this would give me more overall steering. What do you guys think?? Thanks all. Later!
if you want to more steering, puy more soft oil in front and rear..

But too soft oil is some difficult to control RC car.


i used Front 50K and rear 40K in last week in Kawahara Cup.

i also missed more steering, But driving is very easy..


i will test diff setting in this week..

But.. it's raining in korea now. --;;;

front 30k/rear 10k, front 30K/rear20K, front 40k/rear 30k


and consider about this diff setup document.



ADJUSTING FRONT AND REAR GEAR DIFFERENTIALS
Gear differential action is adjusted by filling the gear differential with differential oil of a specific viscosity.
Differential oil is rated with a “viscosity” number that indicates the thickness of the oil, which determines how much the oil resists flowing. Differential oil with a higher viscosity (for example, 100,000 oil) is thicker than differential oil with a lower viscosity (for example, 40,000 oil).

• To make a gear differential LIGHTER, fill it with thinner oil.
• To make a gear differential HEAVIER, fill it with thicker oil.

EFFECTS OF FRONT GEAR DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENT
Lighter Front Differential (thinner oil)
• Decreases understeer
• Decreases stability under braking and acceleration
• Increases chance of traction roll
Heavier Front Differential(thicker oil)
• Increases understeer
• Increases stability under braking and acceleration
• Reduces chance of traction roll

EFFECTS OF REAR GEAR DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENT

Lighter Rear Differential (thinner oil)
• Decreases on-throttle steering
• Less acceleration if the grip is there
• Less predictable car (cars with very “loose” diffs have a tendency to understeer heavily under throttle and turn-in oversteer as soon as you lift)
• Less on-throttle oversteer (snap-oversteer)
• Less turn-in understeer
• Less stable under braking
Heavier Rear Differential (thicker oil)
• Increases on-throttle steering
• Better acceleration if the grip is there
• More predictable car (cars with very “loose” diffs have a tendency to understeer heavily under throttle and turn-in oversteer as soon as you lift)
• More on-throttle oversteer (snap-oversteer)
• More turn-in understeer
• More stable under braking

TRACTION CONSIDERATIONS:
* The higher the traction, the lighter the diff oil up front, and the heavier at the rear.
* The lesser the traction, the heavier the diff oil up front, and the lighter at the rear.
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:16 PM   #5452
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
if you want to more steering, puy more soft oil in front and rear..

But too soft oil is some difficult to control RC car.


i used Front 50K and rear 40K in last week in Kawahara Cup.

i also missed more steering, But driving is very easy..


i will test diff setting in this week..

But.. it's raining in korea now. --;;;

front 30k/rear 10k, front 30K/rear20K, front 40k/rear 30k


and consider about this diff setup document.



ADJUSTING FRONT AND REAR GEAR DIFFERENTIALS
Gear differential action is adjusted by filling the gear differential with differential oil of a specific viscosity.
Differential oil is rated with a “viscosity” number that indicates the thickness of the oil, which determines how much the oil resists flowing. Differential oil with a higher viscosity (for example, 100,000 oil) is thicker than differential oil with a lower viscosity (for example, 40,000 oil).

• To make a gear differential LIGHTER, fill it with thinner oil.
• To make a gear differential HEAVIER, fill it with thicker oil.

EFFECTS OF FRONT GEAR DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENT
Lighter Front Differential (thinner oil)
• Decreases understeer
• Decreases stability under braking and acceleration
• Increases chance of traction roll
Heavier Front Differential(thicker oil)
• Increases understeer
• Increases stability under braking and acceleration
• Reduces chance of traction roll

EFFECTS OF REAR GEAR DIFFERENTIAL ADJUSTMENT

Lighter Rear Differential (thinner oil)
• Decreases on-throttle steering
• Less acceleration if the grip is there
• Less predictable car (cars with very “loose” diffs have a tendency to understeer heavily under throttle and turn-in oversteer as soon as you lift)
• Less on-throttle oversteer (snap-oversteer)
• Less turn-in understeer
• Less stable under braking
Heavier Rear Differential (thicker oil)
• Increases on-throttle steering
• Better acceleration if the grip is there
• More predictable car (cars with very “loose” diffs have a tendency to understeer heavily under throttle and turn-in oversteer as soon as you lift)
• More on-throttle oversteer (snap-oversteer)
• More turn-in understeer
• More stable under braking

TRACTION CONSIDERATIONS:
* The higher the traction, the lighter the diff oil up front, and the heavier at the rear.
* The lesser the traction, the heavier the diff oil up front, and the lighter at the rear.
Thank you Gansei! I might try the 30 rear and 40 front then. This will be a more suttle change, plus I need to make some adjustments to the suspension and overall allignment. I just wanted to ask while I had my car tore down. I am putting in some new high grade ceramic bearings throughout the car as well. Not a necessity, but am hoping to get a bit smoother and consistant drive train for those LONG 4 day race events. I also plan on doing some moddifications to the rear roll bar. I might end up with the Mugen route as you have Gansei, but going to try a different blade roll bar frist. The original anti roll bar is not atiquit what so ever. It is way too soft to get the changes out of it that should be expected. Also might play with different brands of shock springs as well.

Hey Gansei, can you tell me how you have your front and rear shocks set up. Meaning your piston hole size, # of holes and also the oil brand and weight that you use. I'm not happy with my shock perfomance at the moment. Need to make some changes. I have 2 1.2mm holes for rear shocks and 1 1.2mm holes for the front and the other piston hole is original size (1mm?). I use Serpent 35 weight oil in all four shocks. Serpent 35 is equal to the TM 600. I understand that lots of guys use the Associated shock oil, around 50 weight or so.

I am so use to going softer for every thinging the rear of the car (oil, springs, larger or more holes in shock piston...etc.) But this doesn't seem to be the case with this car. I learned a lot this last weekend of racing. Mainly set it up the opposite of my 1:8th scale Slide. So any of your insight would be very appreciated my Heavy Metal friend.

Gansei, thanks for your assistance, and again congradulations on a VERY good race at the Kawahara Cup event. You did VERY awesome my friend. By the way, where can I look into getting one of those setup boards. I need something like that for my air travels, as weight is always an issue when you are trying to race 2 cars and bring all the equipment for 2 cars and then try and fit it all in 2 hauler bags. Not easy to do. I like to take everything minus the kitchen sink. Thanks again bro!!!!
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Old 03-23-2007, 12:47 PM   #5453
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Thank you Gansei! I might try the 30 rear and 40 front then. This will be a more suttle change, plus I need to make some adjustments to the suspension and overall allignment. I just wanted to ask while I had my car tore down. I am putting in some new high grade ceramic bearings throughout the car as well. Not a necessity, but am hoping to get a bit smoother and consistant drive train for those LONG 4 day race events. I also plan on doing some moddifications to the rear roll bar. I might end up with the Mugen route as you have Gansei, but going to try a different blade roll bar frist. The original anti roll bar is not atiquit what so ever. It is way too soft to get the changes out of it that should be expected. Also might play with different brands of shock springs as well.

Hey Gansei, can you tell me how you have your front and rear shocks set up. Meaning your piston hole size, # of holes and also the oil brand and weight that you use. I'm not happy with my shock perfomance at the moment. Need to make some changes. I have 2 1.2mm holes for rear shocks and 1 1.2mm holes for the front and the other piston hole is original size (1mm?). I use Serpent 35 weight oil in all four shocks. Serpent 35 is equal to the TM 600. I understand that lots of guys use the Associated shock oil, around 50 weight or so.

I am so use to going softer for every thinging the rear of the car (oil, springs, larger or more holes in shock piston...etc.) But this doesn't seem to be the case with this car. I learned a lot this last weekend of racing. Mainly set it up the opposite of my 1:8th scale Slide. So any of your insight would be very appreciated my Heavy Metal friend.

Gansei, thanks for your assistance, and again congradulations on a VERY good race at the Kawahara Cup event. You did VERY awesome my friend. By the way, where can I look into getting one of those setup boards. I need something like that for my air travels, as weight is always an issue when you are trying to race 2 cars and bring all the equipment for 2 cars and then try and fit it all in 2 hauler bags. Not easy to do. I like to take everything minus the kitchen sink. Thanks again bro!!!!

i used kyosho 700 oil front/rear in kawahara cup.

front/rear shock piston is same as 1.2 X 2 hole.

normally i used 50k~70k in My G4S.

my carbon setup boards is order production in korea carbon company.

it is not market product.


and i cut off 2mm front sus arm and 2mm rear sus arm..

over all.. i reduced wheel Base 4mm...

so my G4S can turn in corner quickly.


this is my setup in kawahara cup A-main Final.


width: front 196mm, rear 200mm

diff: front 50000, rear 40000 (kyosho oil)

shock: front / rear all 1.2X2hole, kyosho 700

sprint: front mugen gray(1.8mm), rear mugen dark blue(1.8mm)

downstop: front 2mm, rear 4.5mm
toe: front out 1.5, rear in 2.5

camber: front 2.5 , rear 3.5

height : front 5mm, rear 9mm
shock position: front 3rd from top, rear 2nd from top

tire: kawahara 37

body: sturatus 3.1

stebil: front flat(0), rear mugen 2.3mm

tire diameter : front 62.5mm rear 65mm



i want this information will be useful data to Serpentd.

have a nice race... good luck to my metal friend!!
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Old 03-23-2007, 01:49 PM   #5454
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Gansei, you say you have 2.5mm split, what about your pulleys? 18 brake, 18 brake side and 26 front side pulley?? or what?


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Old 03-23-2007, 06:27 PM   #5455
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Hey guys, have any of you tried 100K diff oil in your front diff? I am currently using 50K front and 30K rear. When I was running my Serpent 720, I had 100K in front and 30K in the rear. It really worked well in the Serpent. Just curious if I should give this a shot or not. I'm thinking that this would give me more overall steering. What do you guys think?? Thanks all. Later!
yo bro, i used to run 100k on front diff, but last week i changed to 50k, u can see the great difference, so i think there is no need to buy or try 100k. oh btw, i use 30k for rear.
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:39 PM   #5456
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Hello all

I am looking at purchasing a TM G4 Evo very soon. For those who have experience with this chassis, how would you rate the car? Is it competitive? I recently purchased a used NTC3 and the car was a P.O.S. After calculating the cost to "restore" the car to decent condition, it would almost be cheaper to get a whole NEW (not used) car. I have the engine and servos already. The G4S is a sweet ride but I am not looking to race this car that often as my primary class is ep stock touring car.

Thanks
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Old 03-23-2007, 08:49 PM   #5457
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asil
Gansei, you say you have 2.5mm split, what about your pulleys? 18 brake, 18 brake side and 26 front side pulley?? or what?


Asil
my pulley is ED normal T.

tire wear out much in the circuit of kawahara cup hold

so i prepared no sanding rear tire, and front 62.5mm

i did not consider ODR. ^^
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Old 03-23-2007, 09:08 PM   #5458
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
my pulley is ED normal T.

tire wear out much in the circuit of kawahara cup hold

so i prepared no sanding rear tire, and front 62.5mm

i did not consider ODR. ^^

Gansei, I notice that you are using 3.5 rear camber. If I remember correctly from previous picts you have the newer style rear uprights installed. I was under the impression they allowed less camber, but 3.5 is more than I ran with the old style. I have the new style installed, but haven't been able to race yet. What is your experience with the new parts?

thanks,
Gary

Edit: Please strike the previous question from the record. I'm a dork.... I just went back and looked at your car pic and see that you have a modified version of the old arms. Thanks for taking the time to post your set up and the videos though. I appreciate it

Last edited by royfan33; 03-23-2007 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 03-23-2007, 11:11 PM   #5459
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gansei
i used kyosho 700 oil front/rear in kawahara cup.

front/rear shock piston is same as 1.2 X 2 hole.

normally i used 50k~70k in My G4S.

my carbon setup boards is order production in korea carbon company.

it is not market product.


and i cut off 2mm front sus arm and 2mm rear sus arm..

over all.. i reduced wheel Base 4mm...

so my G4S can turn in corner quickly.


this is my setup in kawahara cup A-main Final.


width: front 196mm, rear 200mm

diff: front 50000, rear 40000 (kyosho oil)

shock: front / rear all 1.2X2hole, kyosho 700

sprint: front mugen gray(1.8mm), rear mugen dark blue(1.8mm)

downstop: front 2mm, rear 4.5mm
toe: front out 1.5, rear in 2.5

camber: front 2.5 , rear 3.5

height : front 5mm, rear 9mm
shock position: front 3rd from top, rear 2nd from top

tire: kawahara 37

body: sturatus 3.1

stebil: front flat(0), rear mugen 2.3mm

tire diameter : front 62.5mm rear 65mm



i want this information will be useful data to Serpentd.

have a nice race... good luck to my metal friend!!
Gansei, dude thank you so very much for the time you took out of your schedule to post your set up for me. I appreciate it very much! You totally ROCK bro! This infomation is priceless to me right now my friend. I have everything that you have mentioned minus the kawahara tires. I have every other brand though, so think I can find something to work tire wise. Besides, tire changes are simple. Right now I need a good solid set up for suspension and alignment. I was just struggleing for that nice tight turn in. With what you have posted for me, I can see that this will be a BIG improvment compared to what I currently have set up. I am WAY stoked to get the car put back together with this set up and start to lower my lap times. My club racers won't know what the hell hit them the next time on the track! Yeah Baby!!! All I can say is that I am very excited for my next race to lay down some serious lap times.

With the help of Gansei's set up and me bringing 3 engines all ready to go with proper gearing and clutch set up all ready to go, I know thtat things are going to go awesome. Right on man!! So thank you again Gansei very much for all your support. I will put it to good use my friend! Talk soon bro! Later!!
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Old 03-23-2007, 11:41 PM   #5460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by royfan33
Gansei, I notice that you are using 3.5 rear camber. If I remember correctly from previous picts you have the newer style rear uprights installed. I was under the impression they allowed less camber, but 3.5 is more than I ran with the old style. I have the new style installed, but haven't been able to race yet. What is your experience with the new parts?

thanks,
Gary

Edit: Please strike the previous question from the record. I'm a dork.... I just went back and looked at your car pic and see that you have a modified version of the old arms. Thanks for taking the time to post your set up and the videos though. I appreciate it
i changed rear upper arm long time ago. ^^

because rear upper arm movement is not smooth.

kyosho 6.8 ball end + K-Factory 6.8 ball (cut head) + washer

But bolt must be not lock tightly in rear nuklearm portion to smooth upper arm movement.

pls see my rear upper arm picture. ^^
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