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Old 02-08-2006, 12:47 AM   #511
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UK National Champ, Darren Johnson, has just posted his set-up on 3hobby.net if you guys want to try it.
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:15 AM   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfelish
I will contribute this to the SH .15 engine HP question. Most engines like this will only produce 27 to 30k. A similar OS engine and a couple of other showed only .68 to .75 HP. I would say this engine would fit club rules. This is the best I could fine from other sites. SH site does not give the information. I tried!

Sam

sfelish:

I have emailed TMagic, and i got a quick response from Nick saying they don't have a technical specs from SH, but he did say that he also thought it would be under 1hp.

I never know why car makers use engines on their kits that don't meet IFMAR/ most club rules. I guess it is a quick sale point at the hobby store if it has a "quick" engine included to beat their mates at the local carpark.

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Old 02-08-2006, 02:43 AM   #513
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Originally Posted by rbboy
REACTOR: i accidentally opened one and look at it now in just 14 hours... TADANG!!! 6-hour sleep included i'm racing it on friday so gotta run it tomorrow or on thursday to find the right set-up im starting of at the standard set-up but i will be using 15,000wt diff oil
You just cant stop do you? i beat you in kit building but it seems that Motorman got that record! cant run mine that soon, got to get electronic stuffs and a whole bunch of coins outa my pocket

Motorman..i bet your hands are cramped!!!
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Old 02-08-2006, 03:48 AM   #514
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Talking Darren Johnson's set-up posted on 3hobby.net

I just looked over his set-up on 3hobby.net, and have to say his set-up is very similar to what I ran last year. Guys it is an awesome starting set-up. He makes some comments about narrowing the front end for more steering. He is quite right. I ran mine at 195mm all last year on the front end. It is a must. Car has way more corner entry and on-power steering.

Comments:
This car seems to like one shore softer in the front end wherever I raced. Please keep this in mind!!!! Try and stick with one brand of tire!!! It makes a huge difference in your set-ups. 37 or 38 shore fronts worked almost everywhere. I almost always ran 40 shore rears. If you race on a really high bite track you might try gluing the sidewalls of the 37 or 38 shore fronts with superglue or switching to 40 shore fronts. The idea here is to run the most traction possible w/o making the car loose or making it a bear on traction rolling. If the 40 shore fronts have to much traction superglue them as well. This is a tuning tip that really works.

Rear Camber set-up. Lower inside link....upper outside link. This car LIKES rear camber. Give it to the car!! I ran 4 degrees LHS and 3.5 degrees RHS. This is with the Hudy set-up gauges. If your using the plastic thingy that goes up against the tire I don't know what those numbers for camber are.
Car track width 200mm.

Rear sway Bar. Flat is probably a good starting point, but I haven't tried the new bar yet, but I have a feeling it will be at 90 degrees.

Front toe-out: I ran 1.5 degrees toe out both sides all last year. The car has lots of turn-in and lots of on power steering using 1.5 degrees. You will have to "drive" the car more on straights because of the toe-out but corners are where races are won.

Front Camber: LHS 2 degrees. RHS 1.5 degrees. Many people set-up there car the same one side to the next. That's okay....... but most on-road courses have more HIGH speed right handers. The car therefore needs a little more LHS camber to compensate for more high speed body roll to keep the tire planted.

Shocks and pistons: I ran two holes pistons with 60wt all last year. If your running the car for the first time, stick with that. The car will be fine. You will most likely experiment with pistons and oils when traction is very very high(traction rolling probelms). Here again you want to tune with tires first.

Springs: Kit springs make the car easy to drive almost everywhere. I ended up running one spring rate higher up front vs the rear. Like Team Magic Aqua up front and Rose in the rear.

Body Selection: What a huge tool!! I ran the Mazda 6 and Status 3.1 last year. The mazda 6 feels very responsive and very responsive. It will add just a little more steering to the car, but the car will feel more twitchy and loose at the rear wheels. I really like the Startus 3.1. It really settles the car down based on the set-ups I used. With the 3.1 you give up just a tad of front end bite because you gain alot more rear traction. If you put the bodies next to each other you will see why that makes sense. The 3.1 made the car alot more predictable, and easier to drive in the mains.

Tire Bias......front to rear. I like having a split of 1.5mm to 2mm. The car has way more on power steering and corner entry. 60mm rears and 58.5mm fronts. Please keep in mind this is with stock gearing.

Ride height: 5mm up front and 5.5mm rear. Or neutral.

DIFF Oil: I think the kit oil is 10,000 wt oil. If seems light compared to Mugen, Ofna and others. I have no idea how they grade them because they don't seem to use the same scale of grading. I get three grades of oil from the SAME MFR. , and use this as a base. The kit oil should give you lots of corner entry using the above set-up tips, because the oil feels light. Light oil will sacrifice a little on exit acelleration(car will diff more). I like to tune with these thoughts in mind. If the car has lots of turn-in and is not loose at all I will likely go up in diff oil weight to gain some corner exit acceleration.

WHEW LONG winded post but I hope this stuff may help some of you.
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Old 02-08-2006, 04:49 AM   #515
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Default SH Engine!

Also,

Is it a turbo plug engine or standard?

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Old 02-08-2006, 08:03 AM   #516
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hi RayJ,

you say you like a 1.5 to 2mm tyre split (with stock gearing) have you tried that split with the 26t front pulley? if so, what are your thoughts?

i also agree on the harder rear tyres than front, with just a couple of exceptions at some tracks (here in the UK)

also i ran my car last year with a shorter wheel base -2.5mm (by shaving the front off the lower rear wishbones, then adding appropriate spacer behind ball stud for top link) this really helps the car rotate around hairpins, but i havent tried that with the narrow front end (that might be a bit too much steering!)
will try though and let you guys know.
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Old 02-08-2006, 09:04 AM   #517
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Bundy its a standard plug engine.

Darren I think you will find with the new steering that you won't have to play the shorten the wheelbase thing any more. We have been running 195/196 width for almost 6 months and the car turns very hard with improved mid corner exit speed. I run for the most part the same exact setup ray uses in most cases, unless the bite is off the chain. Rear camber link position is very important as is rear camber. I usually run 3 degrees on the rear to 3.5 minimum. we havent tried the 26 mm pulley yet. However I have used the 18 brake 19 side with a 3.5 mm split when I needed alot of rollout on a long track.
nice post guys
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Old 02-08-2006, 09:29 AM   #518
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Bundy,

The motor is standard plug. The concept in the Le mans is to get that new hobbyist an opportunity to purchase a good car that would be a challenge for him in the beginning and a car he could grow with in the future. I believe however this car could be an excellent format car for clubs to promote a beginner class.( my opinion) The car truly aloows someone to enter the hobby for half or better compared to making a purchase of a regular kit and having to start getting an engine, electronic and etc. It's niche is to attract more people to become hobbyist.

The kit is well built, boxed great, looks fantastic!, and priced right. The thought of IFMAR rules was not a consideration for marketing the car or for the person buying. That would come later for them.

I am happy Nick emailed you quickly, another reason to be a Team Magic racer!

Sam
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Old 02-08-2006, 10:35 AM   #519
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Default Hi Darren

I haven't tried the 26Tside pulley yet. But I just might try it!! Darren have you tried the 18T internal with 18T side yet? Look out acceleration whoppdedoo!! 18T pinion with 24T and you've got a rocket on your hands!!

Also I took an extra set of the 2 speed bolts. The ones with the threads on the end and used that in replacement of the stock hinge pins for the rear inner link. I just put it in through the rear inside hole where the rear inside hinge pin went. It allows me to use a ball link on the inside and smaller captured ball end on the outside. It really helps free up the linkage in the back of the car.

I haven't tried the shortened wheel base yet either but it's a great suggestion to keep in the bag of tricks.
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Old 02-08-2006, 12:21 PM   #520
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no i havent tried the 18t, doesnt it run out of revs down the straight? might be fun to try !

on the rear link, is that a different link that you use on the hub then? (a bit like on the MTX2 ?) i know what you mean about freeing it up, i ended up using the linkage off my old G4EVO, its free but still doesnt have any play in it

also, i have crash tested the new chassis (i barrell rolled it at the end of the straight ) and it doesnt tweak ! its brilliant compared to the old car, so TM have done a good job there !
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Old 02-08-2006, 02:29 PM   #521
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18's with alot of motor (insert big ) Use 18-19/24 pinions with 60/61 tires. The corner rip is? well you gotta experience it for yourself. Yes ray is talking about a camber link like a MTX3
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Old 02-08-2006, 06:17 PM   #522
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Hi, my name is Miguel Favela (Mike).
This is mi first post here, i'm a G4S driver, i ran it for the first time last weekend in a regional in the north of Mexico. The car feels so good, i really like it, i have two years in this hobby, my last car was an EVO, i change it for his little brother G4S.

In this race (Serial Norteņo) in Mexico, i end it in second place in Main B for 30 minutes, for that reazon i pass to the Main A, i ran for a 20 minutes in Main A in third place but i have a bad luck, my battery dies in almost 15 minutes to end the race.

In a two weekends we have the next race in this serial, i hope this time the good luck will be with me

Here you have some pictures, all the cars that you can see in the picture in the midle are G4 EVO's, the cars in the first and the last picture are G4S, the first two in whole Mexico



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Old 02-08-2006, 07:24 PM   #523
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Default To Mike

Hey Mike nice job. Gotta remember to charge those batteries bud!!

A little suggestion try the VR12 Skyline pipe. If you try it you'll really notice a difference when you put the hammer down!!
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Old 02-08-2006, 07:30 PM   #524
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Default SH Engine!

Quote:
Originally Posted by sfelish
Bundy,

The motor is standard plug. The concept in the Le mans is to get that new hobbyist an opportunity to purchase a good car that would be a challenge for him in the beginning and a car he could grow with in the future. I believe however this car could be an excellent format car for clubs to promote a beginner class.( my opinion) The car truly aloows someone to enter the hobby for half or better compared to making a purchase of a regular kit and having to start getting an engine, electronic and etc. It's niche is to attract more people to become hobbyist.

The kit is well built, boxed great, looks fantastic!, and priced right. The thought of IFMAR rules was not a consideration for marketing the car or for the person buying. That would come later for them.

I am happy Nick emailed you quickly, another reason to be a Team Magic racer!

Sam
Thanks to all for there imput

Sfelish:

I have also confirmed with SH themselves and they have confirmed the motor is over 1hp. Also the club has finally brought the rules to the table and it only allows you to use side exhaust (up to 1hp) for this particular class. So i guess i will stick to the CD3 for a bit longer then

On the KV1/ LeMans G4 RTR, is the clutch only designed for SG shaft engines or could you screw in a OS CV-R etc. Obviously the header and pipe will need to be changed....

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Old 02-08-2006, 09:29 PM   #525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfavela
Hi, my name is Miguel Favela (Mike).
This is mi first post here, i'm a G4S driver, i ran it for the first time last weekend in a regional in the north of Mexico. The car feels so good, i really like it, i have two years in this hobby, my last car was an EVO, i change it for his little brother G4S.

In this race (Serial Norteņo) in Mexico, i end it in second place in Main B for 30 minutes, for that reazon i pass to the Main A, i ran for a 20 minutes in Main A in third place but i have a bad luck, my battery dies in almost 15 minutes to end the race.

In a two weekends we have the next race in this serial, i hope this time the good luck will be with me

Here you have some pictures, all the cars that you can see in the picture in the midle are G4 EVO's, the cars in the first and the last picture are G4S, the first two in whole Mexico



Congrats Mike, hopefully better luck in your next race.
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