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Old 03-12-2007, 01:05 AM   #5191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace
Grat posts Patto and good input from Serpentd and everyone else here.
Information like this and letting everyone in the family know better arms us for the future and for making or getting improvements done on the car.

It's continuous improvement on the car which we nead and posts like this with everyone's imput really helps!
Even if sometimes we end up taking 3 steps foreward then 2 back again

Again, great imput guys. This right here is why I like to run the G4s and be a part of all this.

Respect,
Menace
Thanks for the kind words Menace. I'm glad the posts aren't comming accross as bashing, but just some good old fasion input. We love our cars and just want to keep them that way. I hope the important guys (TM and KFactory) at least take note of our findings. We're working on it. Peace bro.
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:08 AM   #5192
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i was wondering if the following gear oil is good enough.
Front diff : 100,000
Rear diff : 30,000

it was ok for the past few weeks, but lately, it seems that corner entry has been rather slow. would it be better if i were to change the front to 50,000?

steering angle.
normally i would pop up my car to the setting tool, and i measure the degree of it turning in both direction from the setting ruler. i have set to about 35mm on both sides, so may i ask wats the common or maximum setting that will allow smaller corner entry? coz its like the EPA on my 3pk steering left & right is already 100%, only left with another 20% to play with. Thanks.
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:11 AM   #5193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
On the ED shaft issue I think its just that the thickness of the material at the end of the thread is very thin with it being drilled and tapped out as well.
A relook at the taper can solve the problem or possibly not tapping the locking screw in as deep so u can use a shorter screw.
Or maybe even use a longer screw to give it some strength.
that is a very good solution Razzor. will definately beef up the area needed on the shaft. but they are also concerned about weight of the shaft. so a left hand thread is still another good solution. even if it breaks, or fractures the shaft, the screw will not wind itself off and no weight will be added to the current system. all very good thaughts. just hope they get through
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:30 AM   #5194
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Originally Posted by British Menace
Hey All,

It's good to hear all of your exploits over the weekend. Sorry to hear some had brocken but I guess that'll happen sometimes. I broke the servo-saver on mine. Clipped the board, getting a little too close

Very hard to steer after that! Had enough of a cusion for second place not to catch me though

Hey Serpentd,
Do you mask off each area you've outlined on your body or will some of those lines be faded? Dumb qustion I know but I never used an airbrush so I'm not sure what they are capable of doing.

Regards to all,

Menace
Dude, not a dumb question. It might be hard to see, but the body is already masked off entirely with liquid mask. If you look at the checker board on the side you can see the ones with an "X" are more see thru. I have already cut these out and are ready for paint. When airbrushing and or doing detail stuff, you just need to plan your colors properly, especially with shading. with shading you need to free hand the area, rather then mask it off. Sorry if that's confusing. I will show you as I keep painting this body. I'll keep you all updated, but please ask questions if you have them and I will try and be more specific.
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Old 03-12-2007, 02:32 AM   #5195
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
On the ED shaft issue I think its just that the thickness of the material at the end of the thread is very thin with it being drilled and tapped out as well.
A relook at the taper can solve the problem or possibly not tapping the locking screw in as deep so u can use a shorter screw.
Or maybe even use a longer screw to give it some strength.
I'm glad to see all the brain storming on here. Good call razzor bro!!!! All I know is that I haven't encountered a design that couldn't be improved on. A lot of these suggestions are a point in the right direction. Keep up the great work guys. Every voice on here counts.
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Old 03-12-2007, 02:37 AM   #5196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
i was wondering if the following gear oil is good enough.
Front diff : 100,000
Rear diff : 30,000

it was ok for the past few weeks, but lately, it seems that corner entry has been rather slow. would it be better if i were to change the front to 50,000?

steering angle.
normally i would pop up my car to the setting tool, and i measure the degree of it turning in both direction from the setting ruler. i have set to about 35mm on both sides, so may i ask wats the common or maximum setting that will allow smaller corner entry? coz its like the EPA on my 3pk steering left & right is already 100%, only left with another 20% to play with. Thanks.
Dude, I think changing to 50K would help for sure. But my experience is less then others on here, I'm sure that they will confirm this. As far as EPA, I adjust mine to FULL throw untill it "binds" and then back it off a few clicks to not over stress the servo. I don't necessarily measure the throw persay. I just max it out like I explained. You can never have too much steering IMO. It's always easy to dial it out if needed. Hope this helps a bit.
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Old 03-12-2007, 02:42 AM   #5197
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, I think changing to 50K would help for sure. But my experience is less then others on here, I'm sure that they will confirm this. As far as EPA, I adjust mine to FULL throw untill it "binds" and then back it off a few clicks to not over stress the servo. I don't necessarily measure the throw persay. I just max it out like I explained. You can never have too much steering IMO. It's always easy to dial it out if needed. Hope this helps a bit.
thanks, i will try 50k
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:15 AM   #5198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
that is a very good solution Razzor. will definately beef up the area needed on the shaft. but they are also concerned about weight of the shaft. so a left hand thread is still another good solution. even if it breaks, or fractures the shaft, the screw will not wind itself off and no weight will be added to the current system. all very good thaughts. just hope they get through
Definately both ways would solve the problem repeating itself. although by adding a few grams of weight in my eyes wouldnt be detrimental to performance as its on the shaft and not the pully.The weight is closer to the center line in other words.

Also with RC racing and how common it is to get t boned in racing this is definately a worry in the back of my mind.
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:26 AM   #5199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
Definately both ways would solve the problem repeating itself. although by adding a few grams of weight in my eyes wouldnt be detrimental to performance as its on the shaft and not the pully.The weight is closer to the center line in other words.

Also with RC racing and how common it is to get t boned in racing this is definately a worry in the back of my mind.
just dont want it to happen to anyone else in that position especially.
i dont think it even needs a retaining screw ?
but a solid shaft will fix it for sure.
i am going to fill it with liquid steel epoxy and screw it back together.
let it set and test it out
using just a plastic bearing holder, i have a new one so i will use the new one with the new parts when they come.
if the old one breaks again at least i get back my bearing holder
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Old 03-12-2007, 04:32 AM   #5200
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just received this e-mail. attach all you pinion pics asap

Dear Rui,

Thank you for your e-mail.
May I know which pinion are you mention?
There are too many pinion on one car.
Do you like to share the pictures of pinion?
I can let our manufactory know.

Thank you!!

Best Regards,
Belle

Europe & Africa Sales Manager Assistant
Team Magic Model
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:01 AM   #5201
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
just dont want it to happen to anyone else in that position especially.
i dont think it even needs a retaining screw ?
but a solid shaft will fix it for sure.
i am going to fill it with liquid steel epoxy and screw it back together.
let it set and test it out
using just a plastic bearing holder, i have a new one so i will use the new one with the new parts when they come.
if the old one breaks again at least i get back my bearing holder
This G4S thread is one of the best RC thread's to read. It's a pity that alot of G4S crew having issues with hop up parts. The premature wear issues/ part failures with the hop ups would make me think twice about buying one or even consider hop up parts. When you spend money on an upgrade you also want value i.e. reliability. How much more epoxy and liquid steel do you need to strengthen hop up parts Paul? They should put you on their payroll as R and D Manager!
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Old 03-12-2007, 05:51 AM   #5202
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Originally Posted by vc05hdt
This G4S thread is one of the best RC thread's to read. It's a pity that alot of G4S crew having issues with hop up parts. The premature wear issues/ part failures with the hop ups would make me think twice about buying one or even consider hop up parts. When you spend money on an upgrade you also want value i.e. reliability. How much more epoxy and liquid steel do you need to strengthen hop up parts Paul? They should put you on their payroll as R and D Manager!
well i will say if anyone is gonna test out the durability of any part on the car it will be me
the epoxy this time is to do a temporary fix, till replacement bits get here.
the only other issue i have is the 15t pinion, but i have come to terms with that, and not willing to test it on another racing weekend.
as far as R&D and payroll stuff ? imsure if i got any car i would find out what breaks fairly quickly
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:11 AM   #5203
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I guess TM dont really do real world testing due to there policy of not sponsoring drivers.That is left to the distributors to do.
If there was real world testing by sponsored drivers then they would be basically do beta testing before releasing parts.

But i have to say once problems arise they are definately on top of things and are getting a reputation for great customer support.
I think they have come a long way over the last 2 years to produce this fantastic car and with our constructive critism it can make the car even better

I dont think in most cases that it has been parts that have been defective as such but rather designs that have not had adequate real world testing.

Patto's problem is a extreme problem of sorts but brings to light a way of us thinking of making it bullet proof.
Same goes for the Speed Shot Front Bulkhead.
We as newbies and intermediate racers make up the bulk of owners of cars and if the cars can be bullet proof for us then the car is truelly durable.

Obviously the ultimate goal for TM is to make money and spares is were most money is made but I think the reputation of a great car will sell more cars and make Kfactory parts the upgrades of choice which is a win/win situation for all.
This equates to a better product with a better reputation and takes us as part of the developement of the G4S ,which gives us a sense of pride in our cars.

Just some thoughts i have on making TM better for all.
As it is I am proud to wear my TM colours at club events and nationals
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Old 03-12-2007, 06:49 AM   #5204
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
I guess TM dont really do real world testing due to there policy of not sponsoring drivers.That is left to the distributors to do.
If there was real world testing by sponsored drivers then they would be basically do beta testing before releasing parts.

But i have to say once problems arise they are definately on top of things and are getting a reputation for great customer support.
I think they have come a long way over the last 2 years to produce this fantastic car and with our constructive critism it can make the car even better

I dont think in most cases that it has been parts that have been defective as such but rather designs that have not had adequate real world testing.

Patto's problem is a extreme problem of sorts but brings to light a way of us thinking of making it bullet proof.
Same goes for the Speed Shot Front Bulkhead.
We as newbies and intermediate racers make up the bulk of owners of cars and if the cars can be bullet proof for us then the car is truelly durable.

Obviously the ultimate goal for TM is to make money and spares is were most money is made but I think the reputation of a great car will sell more cars and make Kfactory parts the upgrades of choice which is a win/win situation for all.
This equates to a better product with a better reputation and takes us as part of the developement of the G4S ,which gives us a sense of pride in our cars.

Just some thoughts i have on making TM better for all.
As it is I am proud to wear my TM colours at club events and nationals
Well said Razzor, i couldnt have said it better.
I love my car as so many on this forum do , you can tell by all the pics of peoples pride and joys, specially Frankies
but my problem was extreme, but does bring out the flaws if any.
K Factory and TM have done extremely well to bring this technology out and i believe the G4S and the upgrades bring us new and exciting technology to play with as well. by far the best looking cars, and definately not lacking anything in the performance area. what i have encountered this weekend, i believe, is a fault that only the unlucky will encounter, but it does happen and im sure it will be long forgotten in the heat of racing next sunday
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Old 03-12-2007, 08:13 AM   #5205
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guys, I'm building front gear diff and have a problem.. the gear case half has countersunk holes but screws are normal cap screws??? anyone have this??

here's the picture;
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