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Old 02-26-2007, 03:31 AM   #4516
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace
Hey Frankie,
Those tight hinge pins, I wouldn't grease or oil them. This attracts the dirt, with the dirt ....pins go through, to be drilled very slightly wrong and this made my lower front 'A' arms stiff.

Keep up the good work Frankie. we'll all be chasing down the MTX-4 and RRR soon.

Menace
Hudy makes a tool
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...0&kategoria=65
that works very well for this. It is not a good idea to work on the pins. Next time you fit another arm it might then be to loose.
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Old 02-26-2007, 04:30 AM   #4517
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casimirsa
Hudy makes a tool
http://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/p...0&kategoria=65
that works very well for this. It is not a good idea to work on the pins. Next time you fit another arm it might then be to loose.

more money for me to spend LOL, gee thanks nah cool tool man!!!!

ok i wont grease them up - just have car in bits and check stuff out!!!

cheers
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Old 02-26-2007, 04:34 AM   #4518
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Default clutch shoe change

my new clutch Black shoe wear out 4mm in 3-4 hour last week race.

so i changed to 720 yellow shoe.

i will test it in this weekend.
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Old 02-26-2007, 04:49 AM   #4519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pattojnr
Hey guys, i have a question aimed more towards the suppliers of TM parts, or TM them selves. on 3 seperate occasions i have lost my 1st gear. the ED trans has a big alloy washer on the spur side that keeps everything held together. problem is the first time the screw came loose, and found it, then i used a small application of the blue thread lock. now the screw came off again, found the alloy washer again. now last raceday, it came off again, this time loosing 1st gear hub and 2 speed came out. i found all the parts, except the alloy washer on the end. now it seems as though the part isnt available seperately on its own. i have emailed TM Edith, but no reply yet. i believe for all persons running the ED trans, this is a part that is simply needed to be purchased seperately and ASAP. i might be the only one who has a problem with it coming loose. but maybe more once the weather clears up in the US and UK. now on the subject of coming loose, what can be done to resolve this situation ? like they have done with gear housing hub nuts and the side gear for ED trans. a left hand threaded 2 speed shaft on the spur side. it would never come loose then. just a thaught hey ?
Patto a button head screw with a washer will serve the same purpose.
If you have some float look at shimming the play out although you would need a small amount of play.
I have not had a hassle with any of my ED screws and have yet to strip a gear.
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:15 AM   #4520
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Default HMMMMM Bloody Shocker

hey guys pulled my car apart after sundays race events and all cool no broken bits except in my rear shock the diaphram was sitting in the shocker and didnt look too healthy.Now questions

1.How can i stop this happening again?

2.Can i use another one of another car as long as its the same size or will i get different performance out of it?

But besides that all good

all i can say is BRING ON NEXT MEET
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:15 AM   #4521
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Kodak on the hinge pin issue id suggest putting the hinge pins in a drill and giving them a polish with some autosol or metal polish.also put some polish in the a-arm hole and spin the hinge pin in the hole.It will free it up with out making it too loose.wash and clean everything before assembly and it should be sorted.
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:29 AM   #4522
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Patto, when tightening the screw, add a little thread lock and use the brake lever to hold the shaft when you tighten the screw. I haven't had mine come loose yet.

Shano, glue the bladders to the eyelets making sure they are completely sealed. You can use the bladder from an MTX if needs be but it needs to be trimmed. Just use anything other than the original black bladder that turns as hard as a rock. The later orange and blue ones from TM were quite good if you got a later kit.

Kodak, You got some extra washers in your kit that are perfect for using in between the black plate and the swaybar mount and between the arm and the bulkhead to prevent the rubbing you are seeing. The washers are in the clutch washer bag. They are the very small ones (usually used for extending the length of the front collar on certain motors.
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:33 AM   #4523
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hang ON everyone - whoa go back to what i said i had Rust on my hinge pins this was buggin me, some how its in the front and rear!!!

So this is why i have polished this - - - - has anyone had this drama and what can w all do to prevent?

cheers for the comments keep them coming
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:37 AM   #4524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
Patto, when tightening the screw, add a little thread lock and use the brake lever to hold the shaft when you tighten the screw. I haven't had mine come loose yet.

Shano, glue the bladders to the eyelets making sure they are completely sealed. You can use the bladder from an MTX if needs be but it needs to be trimmed. Just use anything other than the original black bladder that turns as hard as a rock. The later orange and blue ones from TM were quite good if you got a later kit.

Kodak, You got some extra washers in your kit that are perfect for using in between the black plate and the swaybar mount and between the arm and the bulkhead to prevent the rubbing you are seeing. The washers are in the clutch washer bag. They are the very small ones (usually used for extending the length of the front collar on certain motors.

cheers Mike,

good old patto mentioned that trick and worked a dream!!!

main issue is RUST - this was evident on the hinge pins!!!
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:40 AM   #4525
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z00M
Patto, when tightening the screw, add a little thread lock and use the brake lever to hold the shaft when you tighten the screw. I haven't had mine come loose yet.

Shano, glue the bladders to the eyelets making sure they are completely sealed. You can use the bladder from an MTX if needs be but it needs to be trimmed. Just use anything other than the original black bladder that turns as hard as a rock. The later orange and blue ones from TM were quite good if you got a later kit.

Kodak, You got some extra washers in your kit that are perfect for using in between the black plate and the swaybar mount and between the arm and the bulkhead to prevent the rubbing you are seeing. The washers are in the clutch washer bag. They are the very small ones (usually used for extending the length of the front collar on certain motors.
I thaught i said i did use thread lock , my point being is i need a replacement for the washer, as what im using now and for the last final works , but am worried about sand and dust getting into the one way bearing for 1st hub. the washer protects this , and this is why i want a replacement. I also suggested frankie uses shims for his problem as well.
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:41 AM   #4526
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Just polish them, they'll be fine. The rust is caused by running the car in humid conditions and then the car cools and voila, rust anywhere metal lives without protection.
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:42 AM   #4527
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Must need more threadlock if it still falls out

I guess I'm just first with the latest and will try and realise what has been PM'd in the background
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:43 AM   #4528
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whatever man
whatever floats your boat
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:47 AM   #4529
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Zooom & patto - chill pill both of ya keep the fuzzy stuff for the track both helping hands are greatful!!!
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Old 02-26-2007, 05:52 AM   #4530
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hey Gansei, I look forward to hear from you about yellow serpent shoe because I have couple of them in my pit bag.. Thanks to my old Serpent 710
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