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Old 02-25-2007, 07:03 AM   #4471
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Default my Frint stebil badness ?

is my Front Stebil Bad?

or all G4S Stevil Bar like this?
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Old 02-25-2007, 07:41 AM   #4472
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Thats a good question gansei !!!

Noticed that previously but am busy with Mugen bars at the moment.
So will be doing some testing next weekend to see if its made a dramatic difference.
Im using blade typr in the fron and teh wire type like gansei's conversion on the rear.
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Old 02-25-2007, 09:34 AM   #4473
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak

Yu costed me a race, and now a pipe with other broken parts like reciver!!!
Your pipe is a very good candidate for the following process:

plug all holes tightly after filled with water and put it in the freeze. repeat 2nd or three time until dent is almost out!

It save you from buying a new pipe!
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:18 AM   #4474
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casimirsa
Your pipe is a very good candidate for the following process:

plug all holes tightly after filled with water and put it in the freeze. repeat 2nd or three time until dent is almost out!

It save you from buying a new pipe!
Dude, how do you plug the holes? And how tight? I've done your proccess in the past but half the time I used too much water and "ballooned" the pipe, making it all fat and round like. Not enough water and it didn't fix dent. Thanks dude.
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Old 02-25-2007, 10:34 AM   #4475
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude, how do you plug the holes? And how tight? I've done your proccess in the past but half the time I used too much water and "ballooned" the pipe, making it all fat and round like. Not enough water and it didn't fix dent. Thanks dude.
A wine bottle cork at the "inlet" very tight, two or three matches into the "pressure nipple" and a golf peg at the stinger. the golf peg not to tight (just sealing) into the stinger.

What happens then is that when the water freezes it pushes out some of the ice at the stinger!

Yes there a small amount of bulging but to minimal to affect performance!

At the end of the day it is your call to have the dent or a small amount of bulging
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:02 AM   #4476
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casimirsa
A wine bottle cork at the "inlet" very tight, two or three matches into the "pressure nipple" and a golf peg at the stinger. the golf peg not to tight (just sealing) into the stinger.

What happens then is that when the water freezes it pushes out some of the ice at the stinger!

Yes there a small amount of bulging but to minimal to affect performance!

At the end of the day it is your call to have the dent or a small amount of bulging
Thanks bro. I prefer NO dent personally.. Dude I like your list of cars in your signature. Do you still get to race the M2 or 835? Plus do they still make the .15's for these cars? I still have like 2 or 3 M2's, 2 835's, 2 Mugan Advance, and my original Impact 1. However they stopped racing these awesome cars in the states because of sedan taking over. It totally sucks.
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Old 02-25-2007, 11:40 AM   #4477
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235 class is still fairly popular in SA .
We have about 12 guys running at the club.
But a dying class ,has no real appeal.
I do give it credit with being a drivers class.
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Old 02-25-2007, 12:19 PM   #4478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by razzor
235 class is still fairly popular in SA .
We have about 12 guys running at the club.
But a dying class ,has no real appeal.
I do give it credit with being a drivers class.
With the sedan's being the most popular class now, of coarse it will loose it's appeal. If manufacturers spent as much time developing the 235 class as they have the 200mm class, I could imagine that appeal would still be pretty high. And just imagine what Novarossi for example could do with the .15 medium block engines. Definitely end up with more power then the .12s. Don't get me wrong, as I love 1:8th scale the most and also like both the 200 and 235. The 235 was just a little brother to the 1:8th scale. Very different then the 200mm sedans, so I trully can't compair the classes. You must have qiute the club razzor to have 12 racers in that class because it is a dying class. Do you know if they even make those engines any more? Anything decent that is? Just curious.

Not quite sure what you mean by being a "drivers" class? Cool razzor, talk at you soon bro.
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Old 02-25-2007, 12:26 PM   #4479
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Thanks bro. I prefer NO dent personally.. Dude I like your list of cars in your signature. Do you still get to race the M2 or 835? Plus do they still make the .15's for these cars? I still have like 2 or 3 M2's, 2 835's, 2 Mugan Advance, and my original Impact 1. However they stopped racing these awesome cars in the states because of sedan taking over. It totally sucks.
Thanks for the compliment, Yes i still run both, the M2's of with I have 1x 1998 spec (purple alu radio tray) 3x 2000 specs and 1 835. The M2 is for practice. There is no better car to keep your trigger control in practice than a rear wheel drive gas car.

The 835 I use for club race's and NATS (when I get the time).

There is a strong push in South Africa to run the 235's same as the Porsche Cup in Europe!

In our club the amount of 235's has doubled in the past year.
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Old 02-25-2007, 12:28 PM   #4480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
Dude no prob. Oversteer is when the rearend is loose and wants to try and spin out when you turn. Understeer is the opposite when you try and turn but the car takes the corner wide and can't steer sharp. It acts like it want to keep going straight. So:

Oversteer has lack of rear grip

Understeer has lack of Front grip

This is a good question, because the balance is what we are looking for. We want to take corners nice and fast, but without spinning out (when the rear end swings out). But at the same time, we want enough steering so we can take corners fast and sharp enough for all the corners on the track. If you have too much understeer then you we be taking the corners too wide causing you to have to slow down too much and get off line. You won't be able to hit your Apex properly or consistanly.

Almost every adjustment on your car is to help you find that good setup to achieve that balance of oversteer and understeer. Some drivers prefer a little understeer because it is easier to drive compared to a little bit of oversteer.
I hope I made sence here bro, because I am quite tired and still zoned from my cold. Ask away if you need more details. Later!
Got it, makes lots of sence. Cant wait to get out there...
What brand of wheels do you prefer? I used GRP devils last year and they seemed good but i have never used any other wheel.
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Old 02-25-2007, 01:44 PM   #4481
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Serpentd .15 engines are still available and are awesome motors.
Most club guys ruchen them up to tame them down on our track.
Rear wheel drive gas cars are a real hand full to drive and as Casimirsa said keeps the fingers in check hence "drivers" car.
never really liked the 235 cars but have driven a few to give them the respect they deserve.
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Old 02-25-2007, 02:36 PM   #4482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kodak Hodak
Hey All,

We today i had my practice run with the New OS MAX TZ.12 P3 engine and with the setup of using laying down the front shocks to the bottom hole!!!

All i can say is the laydown of shocks improvd my steering lots and the grip on the front was even better!!!

I really happy to have a easy car to drive, fellow friend Toy000 had a go and say we could drive this all day LOL!!!

In the end we combned same setup and made a few minor adjusts wich iproved once agaain!!

Here is a video clip of me just having fun this morinig!!

Enjoy

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niobYWke71I
Hi kodak
looks like you had lots of fun. The engine seems to pull hard low and high. I might be getting one of these soon for opening day on 4/22. I cant image how fast the bottom will be with the ed trans...
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Old 02-25-2007, 03:02 PM   #4483
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Default G4S SHOCKS

My previous post
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost.php?p=2999138&postcount=3772 is still an "issue" to me

Reading through this forum most of the people say that the holes in the pistons needs to be drilled to 1.2 -1.3 mm

I first assemble my cars shocks with the pistons on standard 1mm holes.

now afer a few runs and test i decided to drill the pistons.

I left the pistons on the shaft with the metal washer underneath it. Firstly i took it to 1.1mm and noticed that the bit is is touching the washer.

My question now is if you take the holes to 1.2 or 1.3 does it realy help with the washer closing the hole for that 0.1 or 0.2 mm.

or am i to technical on this?
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Old 02-25-2007, 03:17 PM   #4484
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Hey Guys,

After the race day yesterday i got home relaxed and then stripped the car to bare bland chasis!!!

I found interesting things - my front area had been rubbing on the front alloy sway bar mounts and things made other parts of my car not work or function right!! such as suspension travel and Droop!!

Here are some pics, and helpful tips to free this up would be kool!!!

The chasis has a bit of a tweek on both ends but the center is good!!!


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Old 02-25-2007, 03:48 PM   #4485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by casimirsa
Your pipe is a very good candidate for the following process:

plug all holes tightly after filled with water and put it in the freeze. repeat 2nd or three time until dent is almost out!

It save you from buying a new pipe!

in the freezer as we speak - x-fingers its done right lol if not always try again!!!

cheers for the Tip!!!
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